Simple Wiring Schematic

[Bjor]

Thanks again!

I guess this means that we just have to start doin it the hard way...

About needing tips and guidance; guess we all do, and if everyone contributes with what we are best at, it will add up quite well. Cheers for the brotherhood!

[Jim in NZ]

OK, heres the latest.

Not many changes to the schematic but have added a second sheet wiring layout which

shows the relays and fuse panel. I traced all this out on my bike, hopefully the orientation

is the same on others. I removed all fuses and relays and disconnected the battery +

while I tested for continuity etc.

 

Many thanks Roy, your diagrams are wonderfully easy to follow. It is great that you have gone to the trouble of verifying all this on your bike, rather than relying on the factory schematics in the handbook. I will be carrying a copy of these on my bike just in case. The corollary of Murphy's Law is that if you are prepared for problems, they won't happen.

 

Cheers,

Jim Greenwood.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Heres the latest layout.

If anyone has any comments or tips to add please PM me.

 

Raz, is the timing diagram "Crankshaft Sensor fail" shown correctly or does relay 5 not pick up at all after the initial brief run when the key is turned on? I guess I should disconnect the sensor and try it, perhaps next week. I drew the diagram after observing the LEDs i added on each relay.

 

Thanks

(attachment removed, see latest at top of thread May 18 2010)

Roy

[raz]

Raz, is the timing diagram "Crankshaft Sensor fail" shown correctly or does relay 5 not pick up at all after the initial brief run when the key is turned on?

After the priming it will remain inactive no matter what you do.

[gstallons]

Heres the latest layout.

If anyone has any comments or tips to add please PM me.

 

Raz, is the timing diagram "Crankshaft Sensor fail" shown correctly or does relay 5 not pick up at all after the initial brief run when the key is turned on? I guess I should disconnect the sensor and try it, perhaps next week. I drew the diagram after observing the LEDs i added on each relay.

 

Thanks

 

Roy

 

 

Roy,

If there were a "Member of the Year" award I would nominate you.

This is (probably) the most proffesional thing I have seen on this site. after looking it over I can find no fault whatsoever.

Note #7 is a very good test. I guess they all are?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Updated Drawings Attached,

 

I also added note 12 in response to Raz with the timing diagram flat lined on sensor fail. This makes perfect sense, the ECU needs to know where to fire the injectors and spark

A word of explanation on timing diagram on the layout

R5's. When I turn the key on R5 gives a very short blip then a short delay then picks up again to prime the pump for 1 or 2 seconds.

If your bike dies with not even trying to start check on R5, swap it with one of the other relays like the starter relay.

Actually the starter relay socket is a good spot to test a relay because every part of it is tested N/O to run the starter and NC to run the headlight.

 

Many thanks to all who contributed to the project,keep those cards and letters coming. Remember I am new to Guzzi, many of you have a lifetime of experience to share

 

You should now have Rev C of the schematic and the layout with April 19th at the bottom right.

 

Regards

 

Roy

 

(attachments removed, see latest at top of thread)

[Kiwi_Roy]

I thought I would share this.

 

In the course of doing my little Test Point Layout drawing I probed the points with my multimeter.

I tested for Ohms with all relays and fuses removed and battery + wires disconnected.

I found that measuring from the near side of F6 to TP-b on relay 3 checks both contacts of the ignition switch at the same time.

The readings I got (turning Off/On) were about 2 Ohms +/- 0.5 Ohms with the odd reading around 60. I made a mental note that the switch would need some attention.

Sure enough, over the weekend after stopping one time the bike ran like a hairy goat so I pulled over and operated the switch a few times and it was fine after that.

Last night I pulled the switch off (remove headlight and two large Allen screws) The back comes off the switch by pressing firmly on two of the little tabs until you can get a small screwdriver under. (It helps here if you were born with three arms or perhaps it unplugs from the harness so you can mount it in a vice.), Then the contact block comes out by releasing another clip.

I didn't see anything obvious but wiped all the old grease off and gave the contacts a very light touch up with fine sandpaper.

Next I applied some vaseline (petroleum jelly) and re assembled. Lo and behold now when I test every time I operate the switch I get a reading of 0.7 Ohms (± 0.1) so I don't expect I will have any more trouble there for a while.

 

If you decide to test your own switch, first short your meter leads together to measure the lead resistance, the test reading should be 5 Ohms think about servicing the switch.

As I mentioned it's quite tricky getting the switch apart but well worth the effort.

 

A word about Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline

I learned as an apprentice, 45+ years ago, this stuff is gawd's gift to electrical contacts. I use it everywhere from battery terminals to dipping my wires in it before crimping into a lug. It lubricates sliding contacts and prevents air and water from attacking copper surfaces. You may have your own fancy tub of electrical contact grease but good old petroleum jelly is all I need. It even has a few non related uses if you know what I mean

[raz]

Thanks for the inspiration! I've been thinking of "overhauling" both my handlebar switch clusters for a long time, thanks to you I did it today. My bike has been out there for some 14 years so there was some grit in them. But most of them looked really good except the turn indicator switch. That one was electrically OK but mechanically clogged by dust and larger debris that I can't even imagine how it made its way inside. I did not measure them before, just cleaned them out good, greased with battery pole grease and put together again.

 

I'll do the ignition switch too but it has blank bolts so I'm not sure how hard it will be. Or can I take the contact block off without removing those bolts?

 

A friend of mine had a bike just like mine and it put itself on fire while parked in a garage. Fairing, headlight, gauges, everything front of the steering head was shot. I suspect it was the ignition switch. It was a write off but fortunately someone bought it from the insurance company and is restoring it.

[docc]

 

A friend of mine had a bike just like mine and it put itself on fire while parked in a garage.

 

 

AAuuughgh!!! Now I've got Double Guzzichondria! :o

[Kiwi_Roy]

I'll do the ignition switch too but it has blank bolts so I'm not sure how hard it will be. Or can I take the contact block off without removing those bolts?

 

I was surprised how easily the lock assembly came off, I expected some sort of fancy security bolt but no, just regular Allen bolts.

(( I just looked in the parts manual Section H1 page 40 item 22 is listed as "Special Screw", I guess the PO must have changed them out))

The contact block (on mine) is held on with 2 philips head screws. You should be able to leave the lock in situ, the block only fits back one way so no worries there but suggest before you take the contact plate out of it's housing mark it's position, I didn't and it took me a while to

figure it out (poor eyesight and bad lighting)

I knew I should have taken pictures but all three hands were busy unclipping the parts.

Check the resistance first, it might be OK

I wouldn't spray it with contact cleaner, might dissolve the plastic.

Roy

[guzzimeister]

Yes, that's a project I want to do, I don't like the way headlight goes thru sooooo many contacts.

I would also like to have it so the headlight doesn't come on as soon as you turn on the ignition.

I saw somewhere someone suggesting two relays for High / Low beam.

I will post how I added LEDs to the relay bases when I get time.

I will be trying out an idea for offsetting the TPSensor shortly, that may be of interest also.

Regards

Roy

 

Refer to the drawing from Raz 16-April-2010 under "Headlight Losses" topic, thats what I will be doing.

His scheme gives the lamp 2 possible supplies, if the main fuse blows the diode will conduct and supply the lamp at a slightly reduced voltage.

With this simple fix you could get up to 30% more light.

Roy

 

 

Hi Roy

 

many thanks for the new schematic, what an invaluable diagnostic aid! Ignore the moaners, always amazed that people whinge and are then not prepared to d better.

 

On the headlamp issues

- definitely two relay system is the way to go with halogen bulbs. I noticed an improvement at 60/55W bulbs, and the uprating then allowed me to experiment with 130/95W bulbs. These were so bright you could see half a mile up the road on DIP.

- better still is to buy a HID kit from ebay, these use an arc instead of a filament at 23000v. They are so bright that headlamp adjustment is essential to avoid hurting other road users. I connected mine into the standard lamp socket with a good separate earth and main feed straight from the battery. This allows me to use a standard halogen bulb in the event of failure. You do have to ditch the relays with this set up though. You don't need them for the HID anyway as it only draws about35W anyway.

 

Thanks again

 

Jon

[raz]

The contact block (on mine) is held on with 2 philips head screws. You should be able to leave the lock in situ, the block only fits back one way so no worries there but suggest before you take the contact plate out of it's housing mark it's position

Done now. I could leave the lock mechanism in place and just remove the Phillips screws to get the contact block off. It had only 30 cm of cable to a harness connector so I could take it to the bench. The rest was straight forward (with some help from my wife with tab pushing). It looked like it was needed but I didn't bother measuring.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Done now. I could leave the lock mechanism in place and just remove the Phillips screws to get the contact block off. It had only 30 cm of cable to a harness connector so I could take it to the bench. The rest was straight forward (with some help from my wife with tab pushing). It looked like it was needed but I didn't bother measuring.

Mine was quite clean actualy, but cleaning sure made the world of diference. I left mine on the bike because I was too lazy to remove the tank

[raz]

If the fuel pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned on it indicates that fuse 1,2,4, engine kill switch, relay 4,5 are all intact and power is reaching the ECU

Actually this also tells us that several internal parts of the ECU are healthy, which is pretty important. I'm fairly sure a normal priming means the computer is running as it should (as opposed to just the driver circuitry and stuff). Obviously it also tells us that the relay driver stage is healthy. Most or all busted ECU's I've heard of has not produced this priming. Either no priming at all or the fuel pump never stops.

 

Normal priming is not conclusive, but the ECU is probably fine.

Abnormal priming is conclusive. If all other tests come out fine, the ECU is very likely bricked.

 

This is too long to put in the note, I know.

[docc]

Roy,

 

Will you be posting a 'final' revision?