2001 LeMans running rich

[Phil Rusted]

Ok,

I have a new to me 2001 LM which is running proper rich.

The smell of unburnt fuel is obvious and I am only getting 120miles before fuel light comes on with general 90mph riding.

 

It was sold to me with a power commander, but being as I cant find it I can only assume that there is not on epresent. It have Mistral pipes but I am soon going to temporarily return to standards for a European jolly / track day.

 

Any quick fixes or is it a dealer / dyno job??????

 

Thanks

[mdude]

I also ran Mistrals and Mistral crossover for awhile on a 2001 Sport without a PC3. It spat fumes and fuel all over the garage.

With PC3 and the appropriate map the problem disappeared and engine character became way better.

 

The PC3 is THE quick fix, or you go the MyECU-route which is probably better but requires intelligence (which I havent).

 

The PC3 is quite cheap these days or check out Cliff Jeffries MyECU.

 

Standard pipes should help, let us know.

[Tom M]

Another possibility is your TPS setting is off. It should be set at about 525mV at idle. If it's a lot more than that it will run rich. See the Throttle Position Sensor thread that's pinned at the top of the tech section if you need to know how to check it.

 

If you have a Power Commander it will be plugged in between your ECU and your wiring harness under the seat. Follow the wire bundle that's plugged into your ECU. If it doesn't lead to a plastic box in the tail section somewhere you didn't get the PC as advertised.

[luhbo]

Mistral pipes don't make a bike run rich. How should they?

 

Hubert

[Phil Rusted]

Thanks for the replies.

 

However, I ventured on to the technical TPS set up sections and almost immediately realisd that this is not for my level of spannering.

 

Perhaps best if it goes to Guzzi dealer at some point soon for a quick set up / dyno run.

 

Does it need much of a change of set up to run Mistral or Standard pipes??

 

Or is this something I can change as the whim takes me so to speak??

 

Thanks

 

Phil Rusted

[Phil Rusted]

I have now found the power commander 3 and have the instructions as well as the standard pipes.

 

Now I have no idea what to do

[Tom M]

I have now found the power commander 3 and have the instructions as well as the standard pipes.

 

Now I have no idea what to do

 

I doubt the PC is your problem but you could try disconnecting it to see if it cures your richness. Typically aftermarket exhaust makes these bikes run lean, not rich, so swapping back to the stock pipes probably won't help.

 

If you really want the bike to run properly you need to set valve lash, sync the throttle bodies, and set TPS correctly before you start messing with the power commander. It really isn't too hard to do, but if you don't want to try it yourself I would hope there's a shop nearby that can do it for you. There's a 3 page thread in the dealer's section of this website on UK dealer recommendations where hopefully you can find a mechanic if you need one.

 

At a minimum you should check what your TPS setting is at idle with the engine off and the fast idle lever backed off. All you need is a couple small safety pins and a volt meter to check this. If it's way over 530mV that's probably why you're running rich.

 

By the way, here's a simplified way to set up your engine that many of us have used, known as "the Micha Method":

Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust)

Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn

Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm)

Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only

Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV)

Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software.

[luhbo]

I have now found the power commander 3 and have the instructions as well as the standard pipes.

 

Now I have no idea what to do

 

First I'd get rid of the PC. You don't know what the previous owner did with it.

Then, when the bike is properly synchronised/tuned and running well you can swap from standard to Mistral and vice versa without any problems or even dangers for the engine. The standard map usually is rich enough for everydays' street use - or, in other words, the main advantage of Mistrals is an adequate sound only.

 

Hubert

[GuzziMoto]

I would start with installing the Power Commander software on a lap top. Then save the map out of the Power Commander. Then do the TPS/balance/valve clearance (either learn to do it your self or pay some one, but it is not that hard to do on a Guzzi). There is no point in adjusting the fueling when you don't know where you're at. Then you can either unplug the PC and see how it runs or put in a map that is all zeros and see how it runs. It should run pretty good but will likely be a little lean on the bottom and rich on top. From there you can install a map made for your bike or a map for one like your bike or experiment to make your own map, or you can spend more money on a my15m from Cliff. I would try the Power Commander first since you already have it. The bike should run okay stock but should run better with a Power Commander or my15m. Swapping exhaust is easy to do and with a Power Commander or my15m you can have a map for each way and switch as you like.

In my experience, with the Mistrals (or any other free flowing exhaust) you will usually see a slight improvement in power at full throttle and higher rpms but maybe a loss in drivability down low due to the slightly lean mixture of a stock ecu being leaned out that much more.

[Dan M]

Thanks for the replies.

 

However, I ventured on to the technical TPS set up sections and almost immediately realisd that this is not for my level of spannering.

If this is true /\

Perhaps best if it goes to Guzzi dealer at some point soon for a quick set up / dyno run.

Then this is probably your best choice /\

Does it need much of a change of set up to run Mistral or Standard pipes??

They generally run a little rich at some throttle openings and lean at others. If you have a lean spot it will be more noticable with the Mistrals. The best running will be with a proper map so see the dealer if they are qualified to dial it in for you.

Or is this something I can change as the whim takes me so to speak??

 

Thanks

 

Phil Rusted

[docc]

By the way, here's a simplified way to set up your engine that many of us have used, known as "the Micha Method":

Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust)

Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn

Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm)

Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only

Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV)

Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software.

Good advice here. Notice: no mention of a dyno run. I can't imagine you would need that to get your Guzzi to run right. And, here in the States, I suppose it would add at least $250 to the tune-up.

[Phil Rusted]

In light of the excellent comments I decided that my mechanical ability would allow me to unwire the Power Commander and re-fit the wire directly into the stock ECU whilst still having the Mistral Pipes on. I didn't have time at the weekend to change the pipes back to standard but may do so this week.

 

Needless to say it now runs a lot better with no rich petrol smell.

 

However, it is a lot more jerky when getting onto part throttle from a closed throttle. Riding solo wouldn't really be noticeable but with GF on the back threatening to bang heads all the time it became somewhat problematic and resulted in me being a little tense when going to accelerate. This in turn has led to a bloody sore forearm this morning.

 

I will try and link Power Commander to computer and re-program it to give me the options of Standard and Mistral Pipes and see where that goes.

 

Also had to go and buy a 7mm socket for the ECU - who the hell uses 7mm bolts??????

 

Will also assess the fuel economy of the standard ECU when it needs filling up again. I have a feeling that it will be better if not as good as my BMW F800S which practically made petrol and regularly returned in excess of 60mpg at 90mph general looning.

 

Thanks

 

Phil

[docc]

I'm not sure if I've ever heard of a V11 getting better than 42-45 mpg (32-36 is more common).

 

Yet, that is US gallons. I would still think that would give you no better than 47-53 miles per Imperial gallon, and more likely 45.

 

Looking forward to hearing how she runs out!

[Phil Rusted]

Well,

I got it to the fuel station and it was over 40mpg at normal 90mph riding, quite a bit of which was two up.

 

Now I have the problem of it being a bit jerky coming off a closed throttle, but I can live with that as it now no longer smells of unburnt fuel and now has a useable tank range.

 

THnaks

 

Phil

[raz]

Now I have the problem of it being a bit jerky coming off a closed throttle, but I can live with that as it now no longer smells of unburnt fuel and now has a useable tank range.

If you remount that Power Commander and load it with a "zero map", you can then enrichen just the two lowest rows by 5-10% or so. This should cure the jerkiness without affecting mileage.