Warning Light bulb replacment

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

Ta -but those 3 came out ok & the black lozenge-shaped cover seems ok -the 2 blocks of three bulbs were only held in by one screw each though (2 mounting holes),& one of the mounts of those had cracked apart Ho hum, used a bit of plastic glue, left to set til later. A bit of a daft design with screws through dashplate into ferrules into plastic. Requires 3 hands & antigravity field to reassemble. Maybe some tiny o rings to lock ferrules into place.

Noticed the earth wire to the speedo bulb (too short!) was hanging by a few bare threads, plastic sheath obviously pinched. Now soldered together, heatshrink sleeved & taped. Some previous criminal has rounded out the allen bolts which hold the chrome cover onto the speedo, so let's hope that doesn't want any attention. While at it all had planned to grease the speedo cable, will have to do so from the other end

[stefano]

Corpo portaspie is made of extremely brittle plastic and will break when you attempt to unscrew the three little screws holding the lid on it. Especially if the screws haven't been greased during installation (they haven't) and have corroded together with the nuts embedded in the lamp holder.

 

May the force be with you (as it seems to be the only way to pry this apart).

my charging light hasn't worked for 6 mos. or so,(although the bike charges just fine)lately the light works *some* of the time. haven't been able to get the cover off to try to change bulb, as the top 2 little allen screws come out, bottom one just spins.

i think this is what you're talking about, i don't think i want to change the bulb bad enough to get the hammer out. any other way?

thanks, stef

[Kiwi_Roy]

Corpo portaspie is made of extremely brittle plastic and will break when you attempt to unscrew the three little screws holding the lid on it. Especially if the screws haven't been greased during installation (they haven't) and have corroded together with the nuts embedded in the lamp holder.

 

May the force be with you (as it seems to be the only way to pry this apart).

 

my charging light hasn't worked for 6 mos. or so,(although the bike charges just fine)lately the light works *some* of the time. haven't been able to get the cover off to try to change bulb, as the top 2 little allen screws come out, bottom one just spins.

i think this is what you're talking about, i don't think i want to change the bulb bad enough to get the hammer out. any other way?

thanks, stef

It is possible to remove the lamp out through the bottom, after all that's the way the holder went in, use a little lube on the rubber grommet like thing you see and wriggle it out with a pair of pliers or something.

They are such a shoddy holder I was more than glad to ditch them and replace all the lamps with LEDs which are much brighter. Read the note I posted earlier about single sided lamp base contact or you might be blowing some fuses.

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

Corpo portaspie is made of extremely brittle plastic and will break when you attempt to unscrew the three little screws holding the lid on it. Especially if the screws haven't been greased during installation (they haven't) and have corroded together with the nuts embedded in the lamp holder.

 

May the force be with you (as it seems to be the only way to pry this apart).

my charging light hasn't worked for 6 mos. or so,(although the bike charges just fine)lately the light works *some* of the time. haven't been able to get the cover off to try to change bulb, as the top 2 little allen screws come out, bottom one just spins.

i think this is what you're talking about, i don't think i want to change the bulb bad enough to get the hammer out. any other way?

thanks, stef

I'm not sure which bike this is for, but it sounds from your description as if one option is to drill the cap off the screw that spins. Maybe superglue it in place if it spins with the drill bit!?

[stefano]

Corpo portaspie is made of extremely brittle plastic and will break when you attempt to unscrew the three little screws holding the lid on it. Especially if the screws haven't been greased during installation (they haven't) and have corroded together with the nuts embedded in the lamp holder.

 

May the force be with you (as it seems to be the only way to pry this apart).

 

my charging light hasn't worked for 6 mos. or so,(although the bike charges just fine)lately the light works *some* of the time. haven't been able to get the cover off to try to change bulb, as the top 2 little allen screws come out, bottom one just spins.

i think this is what you're talking about, i don't think i want to change the bulb bad enough to get the hammer out. any other way?

thanks, stef

It is possible to remove the lamp out through the bottom, after all that's the way the holder went in, use a little lube on the rubber grommet like thing you see and wriggle it out with a pair of pliers or something.

They are such a shoddy holder I was more than glad to ditch them and replace all the lamps with LEDs which are much brighter. Read the note I posted earlier about single sided lamp base contact or you might be blowing some fuses.

thanks for the replys. think i'll live without the charging bulb, when i have to dive into the dash for something more important it'll get fixed then.

for the most part i've found maintainance on the my '02 le mans quite simple.

cheers, stef

[Guzzi2Go]

I'm not sure which bike this is for, but it sounds from your description as if one option is to drill the cap off the screw that spins. Maybe superglue it in place if it spins with the drill bit!?

I think (not sure) that all V10/V11 bikes (from Centauro, California to Lemans) have the same dash, so there is quite an "applicability range".

 

If the screw spins then the stud, or better, the plastic around it is already broken and you can pull the lid off together with all the screws. No need to drill, just give it a good yank and finish the corpo portaspie off.

 

Yoda: "Broken it already is."

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

I'm not sure which bike this is for, but it sounds from your description as if one option is to drill the cap off the screw that spins. Maybe superglue it in place if it spins with the drill bit!?

I think (not sure) that all V10/V11 bikes (from Centauro, California to Lemans) have the same dash, so there is quite an "applicability range".

 

If the screw spins then the stud, or better, the plastic around it is already broken and you can pull the lid off together with all the screws. No need to drill, just give it a good yank and finish the corpo portaspie off.

 

Yoda: "Broken it already is."

 

In that case, if you can find a glue to fix the plastic with, on reassembly you'll have the same ridiculous situation with screw through dash through steel ferrule into plastic, jigging it all together as you go. I found some tiny o rings to hold the ferrules from gravity's evil mocking cruelty while I put mine back together.