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I wish I knew this before I worked on mine this past winter..............

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Posted

I wish I knew this before I worked on mine this past winter..............

Sorry, I did mention it but kept it pretty low key for reasons mentioned earlier.

It is only a weekend job though to do it.

Posted

Sorry, I did mention it but kept it pretty low key for reasons mentioned earlier.

It is only a weekend job though to do it.

 

So, what did you 'plug' the hole with (you just plugged one of the two, right)?

Posted

So, what did you 'plug' the hole with (you just plugged one of the two, right)?

As I recall (it has been a while) I used the head and a very short bit of the shaft from a machine screw (just enough to locate the screw in the hole, don't let it stick through the hole or it will stop the piston as it travels past) that was the right size. A more normal way would be to use those one use pinch clamps that are often hated by owners when you go to work on your bike. You could also use a piece of thin aluminum wrapped around the tube and secured with safety wire or the afore mention pinch clamps. The trick is to make sure that whatever you use does not foul the forks as they compress through their travel, both inside the cartridge and out. The pros would weld the hole closed but that is easier for them, I have to borrow a welder so I usually look for a way that does not involve welding. Besides, the aluminum sheet and safety wire or clamps is reversible/adjustable. I just plugged one but I make no claims that the way I did it is the best. It is merely the way I was able to make it work at the time. With more time and effort it could be done better. My personal favorite would be to plug both holes and then drill a series of smaller holes in the cartridge that would act as progressively as the fork neared full compression so that it would not be so abrupt. With the stock setup it goes from no dampening to a lot very quickly.

Posted

Here are the types of V11 forks I remember there being:

 

1) Marzocchi. Subtypes:

a) Silver with non-threaded axle holes on both sides and separate-side rebound/compression damping and adjustment (V11 Sport 1st series)

B) Silver with one threaded axle hole and separate-side rebound/compression damping and adjustment (V11 Sport 2nd series)

c) Black with one threaded axle hole and separate-side rebound/compression damping and adjustment (Rosso Mandello)

d) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and chromed sliders and holes for solid axle (V11 Sport with clip-ons above top triple clamp and LeMans)

e) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and nitrided sliders and holes for solid axle (Tenni)

f) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and chromed sliders and holes for hollow axle and of V11 Sport length (V11 Sport)

g) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and chromed sliders and holes for hollow axle and of Ballabio length (Ballabio)

 

2) Ohlins forks. Subtypes:

a) For solid axle (Scura and early Rosso Corsa)

B) for hollow axle (late Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Cafe Sport, Coppa Italia)

Posted

Here are the types of V11 forks I remember there being:

 

My 02 LeMans has Marzocchis that match your type c description. Black with chrome legs, solid axle threaded on one side, compression damping adjustment on one side and rebound on the other.

Posted

Well, by Gregs list that means that my wifes 2001 V11 has series 1 forks on it. So what I described doing to them would apply to series one forks. I have no idea what later forks involve or require, but I doubt they are any better. Standard Marzocchi practice is to make them the best you can at first and then cheapen them down for later versions in the name of profit. Like the zokes on my KTM, the first series 45 magnum forks were sweet (luckily that is what I have). Later years were not as good, although there was a easy mod much like what I described as the ideal way to do the Guzzi forks that many would do to their later zokes.

Posted

I went with the penske dual adjustable rear shock model 8983 which was custom built for my weight and riding preference. The front shocks fit the Greg Fields description C, the bike should be done in a day or two and the installer said that he would make necessary adjustments front and rear once I've taken a few rides. There may not be much he can do based on the excellent discussions here. I'll post an update after I get my bike back. Thanks everyone.

Posted

I went with the penske dual adjustable rear shock model 8983 which was custom built for my weight and riding preference. The front shocks fit the Greg Fields description C, the bike should be done in a day or two and the installer said that he would make necessary adjustments front and rear once I've taken a few rides. There may not be much he can do based on the excellent discussions here. I'll post an update after I get my bike back. Thanks everyone.

That is the shock I have on my wifes V11. Michael Himmelsbach and the technicians at Penske did a great job hooking us up on that one. What a great shock that has turned out to be.

You may be able to adjust the forks to suit, the lack of compression dampening may not extend to your later forks. But if you weigh more then 150 lbs or so you may want heavier fork springs to get your sag right. Keep in mind that adding preload is not the same thing as increasing spring rate.

Posted

That is the shock I have on my wifes V11. Michael Himmelsbach and the technicians at Penske did a great job hooking us up on that one. What a great shock that has turned out to be.

You may be able to adjust the forks to suit, the lack of compression dampening may not extend to your later forks. But if you weigh more then 150 lbs or so you may want heavier fork springs to get your sag right. Keep in mind that adding preload is not the same thing as increasing spring rate.

Posted

I weigh 200# with full gear, what would changing out the front springs run me aproximately $$

 

My Traxxion Dynamics springs were $116 US shipped from GA. Add eight or ten bucks for oil and ten bucks for beer . . .

Posted

I weigh 200# with full gear, what would changing out the front springs run me aproximately $$$$

 

Fork springs will run from $80 to $140 if you change them yourself.

 

You can get straight rate springs from Sonic Springs or Traxxion Dynamics. TD didn't have them on their web page the last time I looked but they do have them for the pre-'03 'zokes. Todd at guzzitech has progressive rate springs. I went with TD before I knew about the sonic option, I think they were about $100 or so.

 

Here's an article I had bookmarked on setting your sag that may be helpful:

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_set_your_static_sag/index.html

 

Do you know what spring rate is being used on the Penske?

 

You're going to like your V11 even more once you get the suspension dialed in!

Posted

That SportRider article on sag is not bad, but I personally put more emphasis on free sag then they do. And I apply free sag to the front as well as the rear.

I also look at target sag numbers as a percentage of total travel and not a certain number someone applies to all bikes. But that is just my opinion.

I do agree that proper fork springs are a cheap investment that is worth much more then it costs. Great value per $.

Posted

That SportRider article on sag is not bad, but I personally put more emphasis on free sag then they do. And I apply free sag to the front as well as the rear.

I also look at target sag numbers as a percentage of total travel and not a certain number someone applies to all bikes. But that is just my opinion.

I do agree that proper fork springs are a cheap investment that is worth much more then it costs. Great value per $.

 

 

My installer told me the penske rear shock I ordered was 10 mm longer than the originals , will this make a difference in ride, and will there be any adjustments i can make if it does make a difference. The install went well however they were not able to grease that hard to get to grease zerk on the shaft. Getting my bike bike back on monday, can't wait!! Not really sure how i am going to adjust the shock with all the click options both on the shock itself and the remote reservoir. My penske is the 8983 dual adjustable.

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