New rear monoshock being installed

[docc]

Picking the back up 10mm will make a noticeable difference in ride. Weighting the front is a good thing and is likely to give you quicker turn in and less high speed weave.

 

Resetting your front and rear sag should be next on your list assuming you've got the correct fork springs for your weight.

 

You're gonna like this!

[GuzziMoto]

My installer told me the penske rear shock I ordered was 10 mm longer than the originals , will this make a difference in ride, and will there be any adjustments i can make if it does make a difference. The install went well however they were not able to grease that hard to get to grease zerk on the shaft. Getting my bike bike back on monday, can't wait!! Not really sure how i am going to adjust the shock with all the click options both on the shock itself and the remote reservoir. My penske is the 8983 dual adjustable.

As mentioned before, there is supposed to be a 2 to 1 ratio between wheel and shock on the V11. This means that a 10mm longer shock should raise the back of the bike 20mm. This will steepen the front steering angle and reduce the trail. This typically will speed up steering. It can decrease the stability as well, but most who have done this, including myself, have not had a problem.

As mentioned already, properly setting up the sag front and rear, and even having the forks revalved/ resprung, would complement the shock well. At the very least set the sag. Be methodical about any changes you make and write them down to keep track. Don't be afraid to ask someone else's opinion if you aren't sure.

[dlaing]

The ride height will be higher than stock, but it can of course be lowered by decreasing preload to increase sag.

It is all a balancing act of factors:

Correct ride height,

Correct laden sag,

Correct unladen sag,

Correct spring rate,

AND it all should balance with the front, but keep in mind the front is much more progressive, so perfection is always a compromise.

Chances are they gave you a much firmer spring than OEM, so you should be able to increase unladen sag greater than the OEM shock.

But you may like the higher rear height as it does make the bike more nimble.

My Penske manual recommended 7/8" - 1-1/16" laden sag.

I set it to 5.5mm unladen and 31.3mm laden which is a little more than they recommend, and I do get some occasional bottoming out. I have 550# spring and I weigh 225-240 lbs with gear. I'd ideally like to switch to a 600# spring or a HyperPro rising rate spring...I think...but I am not sure, so I'll save my money for gas.

In any case you should find it is so much better than the OEM Sachs was, especially if you are heavy rider.

[scre103]

The ride height will be higher than stock, but it can of course be lowered by decreasing preload to increase sag.

It is all a balancing act of factors:

Correct ride height,

Correct laden sag,

Correct unladen sag,

Correct spring rate,

AND it all should balance with the front, but keep in mind the front is much more progressive, so perfection is always a compromise.

Chances are they gave you a much firmer spring than OEM, so you should be able to increase unladen sag greater than the OEM shock.

But you may like the higher rear height as it does make the bike more nimble.

My Penske manual recommended 7/8" - 1-1/16" laden sag.

I set it to 5.5mm unladen and 31.3mm laden which is a little more than they recommend, and I do get some occasional bottoming out. I have 550# spring and I weigh 225-240 lbs with gear. I'd ideally like to switch to a 600# spring or a HyperPro rising rate spring...I think...but I am not sure, so I'll save my money for gas.

In any case you should find it is so much better than the OEM Sachs was, especially if you are heavy rider.

[scre103]

Dlaing, Thanks for chiming in. I had Guzzitech set me up with my penske based on my full gear weight, riding style etc. I have no idea what my spring # is but I weigh about 200# with gear. I havn't done a thing to the shock or front springs yet but plan on setting up sag when I get a better understanding on how to set it up , what it does to the riding characteristics, and what I'm missing out on by not doing it. The bike seems to ride fine and takes bumps fine, but I'm sure tweeking it would be optimal.