Wont Start

[lemppari]

Sounds like R1 not pulling in because of an interlock open

Try putting the bike in NEUTRAL remove R1 and jumper the two large pins by poking a wire in the socket, that bypasses the interlocks and tries to pull the starter solenoid in. If that works look for a fault in R1 coil circuit.

If it doesnt work it's on the contact side.

 

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718

One of the contacts in my relay base for R1 wasn't gripping the relay pin at all.

Roy

One of the contacts in the aftermost relay base was extremely loose. It is also worth taking the tank off and checking the connectors of the clutch lever microswitch situated under the tank. They are of the cheap Abiko type and loosen easily, I was told.

[guzzimeister]

Just been for half a ride. Got about 80 ks from home and stopped at a petrol station to get some thing to drink.Went to start bike again and it wouldn't start. Just made clicking noise. Tried many times.After checking fuses, relaying spark plugs caps got help push starting it and got it going. Got 300-400 metres down road and bike started running rough like it was only running on 1 cylinder. Turned around and got half way back to petrol station before it died. Pushed back to petrol station and rang wife to bring trailer. Home now.Checked battery not flat but not good. Put on charge.I had just replaced two relays(the last of the Guzzi ones)and put in 2 new spark plugs.Bike started easily before ride.Had been differcult to start before new spark plugs 4 - 5 tries to get going.Just remembered that Rev counter wasn't working during ride.It normally does.

Any ideas what problem?

Hi

 

definitely the regulator. The tacho works just like the rest of the system down to about 8v, then it dies. When it sees 8v or less it stops working. Very handy early warning system. When it happened to me I changed the battery too to no avail, and on checking the output from the regualtor it was about 12v, high enough to put the charge light out, but not actually enough to do charge the battery. New reg gives about 14.5v. PPut a voltmeter across the battery terminals when the engine is running, and gradually increase engine revs, after about 1500, you should see 14v plus.

 

Hope it helps

 

Jon

[Kiwi_Roy]

I've been told the regulator wire to Relay 2 is a "voltage reference." I suppose if there is no reference voltage, the regulator may not trigger charging.

No, it won't put out any power without ~12 V on the black wire, this powers up the transistors which turn on the SCRs. Just measure for 12V from the black regulator wire to chassis with the key ON. Slide the connector out just enough so you can connect the meter probe without disconnecting the reg. On my bike this 12V comes from the headlight fuse through relay 2. It's actually spliced into the same wire that picks up several of the panel warning lights so if they are working probably OK.

Make sure your regulator case is well grounded, up to 30 Amp passes that way.

 

A simple regulator test you can do if your multimeter has a diode test is measure from each of the yellow wires to the red wire, it should show about 0.5 - 0.6 in each case (red meter terminal to yellow, black meter terminal to red wire), this tests out the two diodes inside (one of mine was open)

You can do the same test using a 1.5V cell and ammeter + to Y, - to red with the meter in series.

Roy

[cash1000]

Have finally got to the source of starting problem.

Took bike to Auto Electrician and he found it was the switch on clutch lever. It stops bike starting if in gear or clutch not pulled it. Got him to loop switch out. So all go now (hopefully)

[Kiwi_Roy]

Have finally got to the source of starting problem.

Took bike to Auto Electrician and he found it was the switch on clutch lever. It stops bike starting if in gear or clutch not pulled it. Got him to loop switch out. So all go now (hopefully)

That's good news, I think it's a common problem, not just Guzzi

You should be able to locate another switch in Godzone, they are a common pattern.

Cherry DCIC-A1AA, try D Smiths or a small appliance repair center, if you find one with a roller on you can take that off.

For North America www.digikey.com part No CH290-ND $4.56

The one I have is an unsealed clone from Radio Shack, it seems to be holding up.

It's the same switch for front brake on the V11

Cheers

Roy

p.s. I should mention, if your replacement switch has a third contact, just cut it off or cover to prevent an accidental short.

[Otis]

Found one at @#$$#! Smiths eventhough the experts at the counter said they dont have them.Slightly different as KiwiRoy says,but does the job.