Scura rear wheel bearings

[Woody V11]

Just took my rear wheel off and the inner rear wheel bearing is toast! Did some searching on here last night but was not able to locate any cross reference numbers to maybe find one local?

 

I did find out one of the major culprits is the spacer? I think from reading here, it is suppose to measure 113 mm? Does anone have any pics of this assembly?

 

What is the easiest method for removing the bearing itself (puller or drifting)

 

Thanks for the help.....

[Tom M]

My stock rear wheel bearings were both SKF brand. 6204-2RSH on the brake side, and 6204-2RSH/C3 on the drive side. I replaced them both with /C3 SKF bearings (made in Argentina) from Mcmaster-Carr. Part number 6661K105. In my experience Mcmaster ships almost instantly and has very good prices and shipping rates. They also carry a grease gun fitting that will reach the elusive front Ujoint zerk; part number 1090K47.

 

If you want to make your bearing replacement go easier consider something like this: http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html. Here's a review: http://www.4strokes....osse/wbremover/ . I used a drift when I replaced my rear wheel bearings and it was a bit of a pain in the butt. I bought the pitposse set after that and used it to replace my front wheel bearings and it was very easy.

 

If you measure your wheel bearing spacer and find it just a tiny bit short you can purchase bearing shims from mcmaster that will take up the space between the spacer and the inner bearing race.

[jrt]

My stock rear wheel bearings were both SKF brand. 6204-2RSH on the brake side, and 6204-2RSH/C3 on the drive side. I replaced them both with /C3 SKF bearings (made in Argentina) from Mcmaster-Carr. Part number 6661K105. In my experience Mcmaster ships almost instantly and has very good prices and shipping rates. They also carry a grease gun fitting that will reach the elusive front Ujoint zerk; part number 1090K47.

 

If you want to make your bearing replacement go easier consider something like this: http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html. Here's a review: http://www.4strokes....osse/wbremover/ . I used a drift when I replaced my rear wheel bearings and it was a bit of a pain in the butt. I bought the pitposse set after that and used it to replace my front wheel bearings and it was very easy.

 

If you measure your wheel bearing spacer and find it just a tiny bit short you can purchase bearing shims from mcmaster that will take up the space between the spacer and the inner bearing race.

 

 

Tom- thanks for that info! I'll order the grease gun fitting now.

I'm a big fan of McMaster as well.

[Woody V11]

Tom- thanks for that info! I'll order the grease gun fitting now.

I'm a big fan of McMaster as well.

 

Thanks for the info...what is the exact size of the spacer suppose to be?

[Tom M]

Thanks for the info...what is the exact size of the spacer suppose to be?

 

113mm looks like what's recommended in the thread below. If you have a set of vernier calipers you should measure your wheel and your spacer to see if the numbers agree.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5537&hl=wheel bearing&st=45

[Tom M]

Tom- thanks for that info! I'll order the grease gun fitting now.

I'm a big fan of McMaster as well.

 

When I order from them the stuff shows up on my doorstep withing 2 days. Since you're in Boston now (when did that happen?) I think you can expect the same Jason. That grease gun fitting I mentioned was available at my local Ace Hardware store too.

 

We should do a ride sometime...

[raz]

Some people would say that the exact supposed size of YOUR spacer is only known by measuring YOUR wheel and adding a couple of tenths of millimeters. While that is a bit over-exaggerated it will give you the answer with certainity, no matter what.

[Woody V11]

Some people would say that the exact supposed size of YOUR spacer is only known by measuring YOUR wheel and adding a couple of tenths of millimeters. While that is a bit over-exaggerated it will give you the answer with certainity, no matter what.

 

So there should be no play at all?

[jrt]

Well, yes, (or no? There should not be any side play) but remember that you are putting side load on the bearings by tightening up the axel.

The idea is to match the distance between the stanchions to the distance between the bearing races.

[raz]

So there should be no play at all?

Ideally no, but this will vary with temperature. Some earlier post indicated a new spacer is about 0.5 mm longer than the space between the seats. I have no idea if that is overkill but I assume it doesn't hurt.

 

remember that you are putting side load on the bearings by tightening up the axel.

If the spacer is long enough, there is no side load!

[Woody V11]

Ideally no, but this will vary with temperature. Some earlier post indicated a new spacer is about 0.5 mm longer than the space between the seats. I have no idea if that is overkill but I assume it doesn't hurt.

 

 

If the spacer is long enough, there is no side load!

 

Ordered the bearings yesterday and try to get the old bearings out tomorrow and get some measurements....it looks like the spacer is loose between the bearings now, but I would think it needs to be a little loose to get the axle to slide through..then tight when you tighten the axle nut. The tires were replaced when I bought the bike and maybe the overtighten the axle nut?

[jrt]

My bad- you are right, of course.

 

If the spacer is long enough, there is no side load!

[mznyc]

Hi Woody,

Glad you caught bearings before an incident occurred! Here's my topic from a while back when mine went kaput.Believe I used a grinder on one side to cut through the bearing housing and had everything out in a couple of minutes.Be careful using Craftsman Hex wrenches to remove the cush drive cover,very easy to strip!

Good luck,

Michael

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13294&st=0&p=144852&hl=bearings&fromsearch=1entry144852

[Baldini]

For me, possible discrepencies in spacer length is reason to use C3 bearings (higher internal clearances) which by my thinking can only help if there is any inadvertant side loading put on bearings. As said above, way to get correct spacer length is to measure distance between inner bearing faces when fitted in YOUR wheel. Std spacer is made of something very weak & may be compacted by tightening spindle nut. Another thing I learnt from someone here I think - always drive new bearings home working across both outer & inner faces to avoid side loadings if driving outers only against mismatched spacer. I made up a thick alu plate/drift slightly smaller diameter than bearing to do this. A towel soaked in boiling water is effective in warming hub to ease bearing fitting. I always chill new bearings before fitting.

[lemppari]

When I bought my Rosso Mandello from Gemany and rode it home to Finland, the front wheel bearings went bust in southern Sweden. The culprit is said to be a slightly too long spacer tube in front wheel.

 

Next summer I was on my way back home from Italy when the rear wheel bearings broke in northern Germany. This time it was the spacer tube that is slightly too long in the rear wheel.

 

Well done, Mandello!!!

 

Considering I was heading back to Finland both times, it is also possible that the bike simply does not like it up here!