galaxiid Posted May 15, 2010 Author Posted May 15, 2010 Don't tell me, you're right handed? Why? does it help being cack (left) handed? Is this because the bike was constructed by itilians in the northern hemisphere and everything down here is back to front? For this particular job I think fingers of a midget would be useful to feel for the nipple.
ponti_33609 Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 If you file!dremel off enough of the fitting and use a flex head fitting this is a 2 minute job and there is no need to remove the rear wheel. You need to file more than you think off the connector. Bob
gstallons Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 Why? does it help being cack (left) handed? Is this because the bike was constructed by itilians in the northern hemisphere and everything down here is back to front? For this particular job I think fingers of a midget would be useful to feel for the nipple. [/quote Buddy, you would just have to be left-handed to understand. Getting back on course. I removed the rear wheel to gain better access to the fitting. While you are there you can bleed the clutch and (exchange) replace the (brake) fluid to keep out bad stuff.
galaxiid Posted May 15, 2010 Author Posted May 15, 2010 Why? does it help being cack (left) handed? Is this because the bike was constructed by itilians in the northern hemisphere and everything down here is back to front? For this particular job I think fingers of a midget would be useful to feel for the nipple. [/quote Buddy, you would just have to be left-handed to understand. Getting back on course. I removed the rear wheel to gain better access to the fitting. While you are there you can bleed the clutch and (exchange) replace the (brake) fluid to keep out bad stuff. Thanks for all the good advice, I just need to track down a decent stand now (for rear wheel removal) and I'll be away...will report back
gstallons Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 ame='gstallons' date='16 May 2010 - 02:19 AM' timestamp='1273929546' post='170779'] Thanks for all the good advice, I just need to track down a decent stand now (for rear wheel removal) and I'll be away...will report back While you have the rear wheel off, check the rear wheel bearings, work on the cush-drive,etc....
tmcafe Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 3 grease nipples, one front. Greased the front with wheel removed using a swivel attachment for the grease gun as mentioned here. Second the cush drive and rubber wedges maintenance/mod (see the step-by-step writeup in the pinned section). Get a stand if you can. There was one for sale not long ago.
galaxiid Posted May 16, 2010 Author Posted May 16, 2010 3 grease nipples, one front. Greased the front with wheel removed using a swivel attachment for the grease gun as mentioned here. Second the cush drive and rubber wedges maintenance/mod (see the step-by-step writeup in the pinned section). Get a stand if you can. There was one for sale not long ago. You are all correct. The grease nipple myth is no longer. Poking about flicked off some gunge and the red plastic cap of a grease nipple cover appeared. Highly inaccessible as described but definitely there. I even took a picture to prove it and will post it if I can work out how to. Rear wheel will definitely have to come off.
ponti_33609 Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 You are all correct. The grease nipple myth is no longer. Poking about flicked off some gunge and the red plastic cap of a grease nipple cover appeared. Highly inaccessible as described but definitely there. I even took a picture to prove it and will post it if I can work out how to. Rear wheel will definitely have to come off. Still do not understand. The rear wheel on mine allows no more access if I remove it. I have not removed mine when I have greased it. What is different? I approach from the back through the "tunnel" with the adj head fitting. Bob
docc Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 Bob, Could you post a picture of your "modified" grease gun fitting? It would be helpful to know where and how much to grind, and the right fitting to start with to make this a "2 minute job." TIA, docc
galaxiid Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 Bob, Could you post a picture of your "modified" grease gun fitting? It would be helpful to know where and how much to grind, and the right fitting to start with to make this a "2 minute job." TIA, docc Pic of the thing in question
galaxiid Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 excuse the poor image, you all know what to look for anyway, but me I'm pleased just to see it, the red cover is over the grease nipple. View is north towards the motor along the drive shaft
ponti_33609 Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 Hi Doc, Here are a few snaps. A fellow member "Leafman" told me about this method and worked great...trick was lots of grinding...must be clearance issues. The wheel "OFF' doesn't help you IMHO. Pic quality isn't good but gives you an idea about the grinding (one side) and the angle needed. Bob
savagehenry Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 I found with the wheel off, and the aforementioned grease fitting pointed down, I seemed to have a better angle on it when you lift the driveshaft up.
dlaing Posted June 5, 2010 Posted June 5, 2010 if wheel bearings are getting notchy, most likely caused by too short of bearing spacer. result is that when axle is tightened, bearing is under pressure that it is not designed to withstand. search forum for proper measurement info. please take this issue seriously. failing to remedy could result in bearing seizure and wheel lockup. this should have been a safety recall. IMHO
twhitaker Posted June 5, 2010 Posted June 5, 2010 In absence of a lift if you have rope, pulleys, and a couple eye bolts in the ceiling you can remove the seat and haul the bike up. Make sure you secure the front of the bike.
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