V11 Steering Damper

[Trippy]

Just looking at my Bitubo damaper and wondering just how slack it should hang in the rose joints. Mine seems very slack and literly dangles loose. I have taken it off and the balls are very loose in the sockets, especially the one in the middle that bolts to the yoke.

 

Question: How does they damper normally sit there, fairly firm or loose and dangling? I took it up the road and to be honest I can't see much difference without it.

[GuzziMoto]

Just looking at my Bitubo damaper and wondering just how slack it should hang in the rose joints. Mine seems very slack and literly dangles loose. I have taken it off and the balls are very loose in the sockets, especially the one in the middle that bolts to the yoke.

 

Question: How does they damper normally sit there, fairly firm or loose and dangling? I took it up the road and to be honest I can't see much difference without it.

The damper should move freely, but should not have any actual play in the mounts. The more freely it moves the better, as long as there is no play. The best way to feel for play is to turn the damper up to full stiff and then rotate the bars side to side. That will highlight any play in the system. It is also a good way to check the state of your damper.

That said, the damper from my wifes bike failed years ago and caused a handling issue. We solved that by removing it and did not replace it as the bike handled better for her with out it. My Daytona also has had the damper removed to improve it's handling. Whether or not you want/need a steering damper is up to you. But in my opinion in most situations a V11 does not need one (based on the geometry). Running one does slow the steering down slightly but the trade off is a more stable, confidence inspiring bike that some people prefer. Ironically some people keep the damper but then slide the fork tubes up through the triple clamps to lower the front end increasing the rake and decreasing the trail, claiming it improves stability. To each their own.

[docc]

My original Bitubo was pretty dangly in the joints. My replacement Shindy is much firmer on its joints, but the joints on the Bitubo didn't have any play or damage.

 

Note that the lock nut which anchors the center mounting joint can back off allowing the joint itself to be loosely attached to the fork clamp. Worth checking.

 

As to whether the bike really needs one . . . my RedFrame Sport certainly feels less jittery accelerating out of a rough corner with the damper. Apparently, most riders run their dampers in the most loose position.

 

Ha . . . "most loose" . . . reminds me of this girl I knew in high school . . .

[Trippy]

Great thanks for the answers. After getting the price off a new one I was just going to bin it but then I found this place on the net .. http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?page=1&act=viewCat&catId=25 and have ordered two new high performance rose joints for £14.

 

Worth a go.

[GuzziMoto]

Great thanks for the answers. After getting the price off a new one I was just going to bin it but then I found this place on the net .. http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?page=1&act=viewCat&catId=25 and have ordered two new high performance rose joints for £14.

 

Worth a go.

Do your current rose joints have play? Because if they do not and are just very free moving, that is a good thing. A steering damper is there to damp the movement of the forks, but any binding or added resistance (from the mounts) is a bad thing.

Turn the damper to max and feel for play in the movement of the steering. If you have play, inspect the damper to determine if the play is in the mounts or in the damper.

[Trippy]

They are slack in the sockets and there is a very small amount of play.

I wasn't going to bother putting it back on but for £14 it's worth a fiddle with.