rear drive seal

[docc]

Looks like the inner seal seals the tail (right side extension) of the crown wheel and the outer (large) seal seals the the left side extension of the crown wheel?

 

I wonder if I can slide a thin cellophane strip around that interface and clean out the suspected and offending swarf?

[gstallons]

It is worth a try ...or for future endeavors Motion Pro sells a front fork seal cleaner . Google it . Motion Pro sells very neat tools.

[docc]

Once the rear drive is dismounted and the needle cage and its race are removed, is the sealing surface accessible?

[docc]

Once the rear drive is dismounted and the needle cage and its race are removed, is the sealing surface accessible?

So, the answer to that is , "Nope."

 

The needle cage would have to be pulled (or drifted out) to get access to the outer seal surface.

 

Vent was clear.

[czakky]

It is worth a try ...or for future endeavors Motion Pro sells a front fork seal cleaner . Google it . Motion Pro sells very neat tools.

Fwiw this seems to have worked on my r5 atleast for now...

[docc]

 

It is worth a try ...or for future endeavors Motion Pro sells a front fork seal cleaner . Google it . Motion Pro sells very neat tools.

Fwiw this seems to have worked on my r5 atleast for now...

 

On the fork seals?

[gstallons]

You can use these tools on any seal ( over 30mm) you want they look neat , as in I haven't purchased them yet.

[docc]

I suppose pulling/drifting the caged needle bearing to get to the seal from the outside is still immensely easier than the full dismantle from the inside.

 

In a commendable exercise of frank denial, I decided to drain the gearoil/moly after only 5,000 miles. Cleaned the needles out, along with everything else I could get to inside the axle area, with electronics cleaner and compressed air. Refilled a little over 90% capacity (with about 90% RedLine MTL GL5+ 80W140). 

 

69 miles and dry.

 

I'm not expecting a permanent solution, but perhaps I dislodged some foreign material that was causing the leak . . . After all, what good is denial with out a creamy dose of wishful thinking?

 

[102,940 miles]

[czakky]

 

 

It is worth a try ...or for future endeavors Motion Pro sells a front fork seal cleaner . Google it . Motion Pro sells very neat tools.

Fwiw this seems to have worked on my r5 atleast for now...

On the fork seals?

Yes sorry, 46 year old fork seals it seems to be holding otherwise I'm out of fork oil....

[docc]

250 miles, no leak. I'm amazed. I didn't think the cleaning and refill would make any difference beyond a different colored leak. 

[Lucky Phil]

Brace yourself for a rant.....I think shaft drives are such a joke and the Guzzi version especially. All this weight,compexity and failure points to do away with an oring chain that for the last 35 years has been trouble free,light weight, simple,easy to maintain, bullet proof and in a WCS you can renew completely with about an hour and a halfs labour including pouring the glass of red.

I understand the in line crank lends itself to the shaft solution but I'd rather have a set of bevel gears in the gearbox to turn the drive 90 degrees and run a chain final drive.

There was an argument for shaft drive pre oring chains and when engines were less powerful but that was going on 40 years ago. The guzzi rear bevel is such a dog of a thing, massively heavy prone to leakage and when it does leak its a right bastard to deal with. I havent even gotten to the shaft and Uni joints yet.

Rant over, I feel better now:)

 

Ciao   

[68C]

Sadly a lot of truth in your rant.

[Chuck]

I agree. When the rear drive was designed, chains were a total PITA, needing *very* regular cleaning and lubing. Not so much any more, but if you're going to have the Guzzi experience  you'll just have to deal with the u joint, coupler, seals, etc. 

I don't mind..

[docc]

I know this has gone under the bridge before, but what about this moly business. Isn't a quality lubricant like RedLine MTL GL5+ (not ShockProof) adequate at this point?

 

And the 12,000 mile/20.000 km change interval . . . Too long?

[Chuck]

I don't use moly unless I'm running dino oil. I'm pretty confident the modern synthetics are fine without additives.