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Posted

Mis-shifts revisited -

OK - Here's what I have done so far.

1. Bleed clutch fluid.

2. Take off gearbox cover and check for broken return spring. Spring is not broken so put the cover back on , replace oil,try again.

3. More of the same with mis-shifts,false neutrals.

4. Plug slot under flywheel. Pour 1 pint of mineral spirits in inspection hole,start bike for 30 seconds while actuating clutch. Drain spirits.

5. Clean up shift linkages and grease (although they looked pretty darn good to start).

6. Take her out for a spin and more of the same. Mis-shifts up and down, false neutrals, etc.

I can get through all the gears cleanly sometimes if I short shift and am extremely deliberate, but not all the time.

If I accelerate hard and shift in the upper rpms then you can forget about it. It's a crapshoot whether it will go into the next gear and more often than not it won't.

Do I take the cover back off and replace the spring even though it is not broken? Can it just be losing tension or should I be thinking more about a clutch issue?

Thanks for any input.

Hi Matt,

Sorry to hear that your still having problems,

I did #2 and #5 and having taken her out for 3 rides while adjusting the eccentric adjuster each time and it seems better,took it out today and it missed a coupla shifts after bike was well warmed up.Much better than before but not perfect yet,maybe me being sloppy,still have to change clutch fluid,maybe that will help.

Unfortunately neutral light glowed for after biked warmed up yesterday and today,ugh,..

Posted

Replacing a spring that's not broken may not give you much satisfaction . . .

 

And a glowing neutral light probably implicates the neutral switch. Some folks have pulled them out and cleaned them to good effect, but otherwise the switch might be ready for a change. It powers the middle relay, so making sure that relay is good to go is simple. (It's called the "Side Stand Relay," but it is energized by the neutral switch.)

 

How much "squeeze play" is in your clutch lever? (up and down wobble is not important)

Posted

My :2c:

Check to see that the shifter isn't contacting the "pork chop" frame plate and verify that the shifter arm is close to vertical on the shifter shaft. Since you are using a non-synthetic lube and the shifting quality is deteriorating as it warms up I'd suggest switching to a high quality synthetic lube. Redline shockproof heavy is popular here, but as Greg F has pointed out some of us see a significant drop in shift quality beyond 3k miles. It is great for the first 3k though. If you can't find it locally you can order it online. I got my last batch from Jegs.

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