Problems with power commander maps

[Golem]

Hello,

I have installed on my v11 a termignoni full exhaust and open K&N filter. After that the bike started to give backfires between 2500-3000 rpm indicating too lean mix on low rev. So I have fully close the air screw, adjust on my dealer the co and enrich the mix on the ECU.

I have took the bike for a short ride on a hot day and after the engine was hot enough the backfires started again at 1500-1800 making almost impossible the ride in a city.

I modifiyed the tps at 160 mv fully closed but still no improvment so I've decided to buy a power commander.

The problem is that I have tried all maps available and under hard acceleration it has shorts and importants losses of power (I was about to fall when accelerating in a curve). I'll reset the ECU on factory settings and start again but I think that the right map is important,

so if someone has or knows about a map for termi/open k&n please let me know.

Thanks

[felix42o]

Hello,

I have installed on my v11 a termignoni full exhaust and open K&N filter. After that the bike started to give backfires between 2500-3000 rpm indicating too lean mix on low rev. So I have fully close the air screw, adjust on my dealer the co and enrich the mix on the ECU.

I have took the bike for a short ride on a hot day and after the engine was hot enough the backfires started again at 1500-1800 making almost impossible the ride in a city.

I modifiyed the tps at 160 mv fully closed but still no improvment so I've decided to buy a power commander.

The problem is that I have tried all maps available and under hard acceleration it has shorts and importants losses of power (I was about to fall when accelerating in a curve). I'll reset the ECU on factory settings and start again but I think that the right map is important,

so if someone has or knows about a map for termi/open k&n please let me know.

Thanks

 

I have the same issues on mine...look up world class valve specs, and verify the 525mv at idle on the tps...it helped mine considerably. I'm in the process of making some intake runners in an attempt to lengthen the intake length closer to stock while keeping the K&N's. Also, read up on the ETS holder threads...I think there's something to be said for the plastic holder if you're running the brass one.

Following all this, I'm going to have a map made up at a local dyno shop with Guzzi experience. Let us know what you come up with.

[guzzimeister]

Hello,

I have installed on my v11 a termignoni full exhaust and open K&N filter. After that the bike started to give backfires between 2500-3000 rpm indicating too lean mix on low rev. So I have fully close the air screw, adjust on my dealer the co and enrich the mix on the ECU.

I have took the bike for a short ride on a hot day and after the engine was hot enough the backfires started again at 1500-1800 making almost impossible the ride in a city.

I modifiyed the tps at 160 mv fully closed but still no improvment so I've decided to buy a power commander.

The problem is that I have tried all maps available and under hard acceleration it has shorts and importants losses of power (I was about to fall when accelerating in a curve). I'll reset the ECU on factory settings and start again but I think that the right map is important,

so if someone has or knows about a map for termi/open k&n please let me know.

Thanks

 

I have the same issues on mine...look up world class valve specs, and verify the 525mv at idle on the tps...it helped mine considerably. I'm in the process of making some intake runners in an attempt to lengthen the intake length closer to stock while keeping the K&N's. Also, read up on the ETS holder threads...I think there's something to be said for the plastic holder if you're running the brass one.

Following all this, I'm going to have a map made up at a local dyno shop with Guzzi experience. Let us know what you come up with.

 

 

Hi

 

I'm running a V11 with K& N panel filter in the airbox and Mistrals. 53K miles on the clocks. Most of the misfires I've seen on mine and other bikes are very similar to what you first saw: 2500 - 3000 rpm. I found that iridium plugs made it better, and balancing the bodies did too, but did not eradicate. You will find that the airscrews are for fine adjustment of the TBs during the balancing process, and have virtually no effect on the bike when motoring at reasonable speed. Even the Power Commander map for my set up didn't cure it. I am fortunate enough to have an MDST diagnostic kit which plugs into a Palm pda. Won't bore you with the details but I found that it occured at 2500 - 2700 rpm (pls note the Veglia tacho overreads by 10 - 15% above 2K) and at throttle openings of 5 - 20%, by reading the data of the pda while riding at the misfire point. I then altered the mapping there and then with my laptop and retried it until I got it right.

 

The attached map has cured it, note it is now significantly richer in this operating zone. I think there is a weak spot too at about 1800 rpm but it's not enough to worry me.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Guzz

v11 j2.djm

[Kiwi_Roy]

I installed a MyECU, at about the same time I set my valves as per manual and I had the backfiring spitting back issue.

On recomendation by Raz and others i opened out the tappets by 0.010 and it completely cured the problem, bike now idles nicely.

As I see it the problem with power commander it only allows tuning the injection time whereas MyECU gives you the ignition as well.

[Bocephus]

I had this issue as well recently after a TB sync and TPS adjustment as outlined in the How to area of the site. Searching the forum I came upon a thread on TPS and sync that was intriguing and thought I would give it a shot after not being able to get rid of the popping with my PC by richening things up.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13188&hl=Micha

 

Basically after doing the procedure in the 3rd post down (Mr. Bean) my issues stopped and I see a bit of burbling in the 4-5k range on deceleration now. Rides great and is a marked improvement. I am running a mod of the map posted by gh67 in the fileshare area that seems promising.

 

[Thread hijack]

What I had real issues with and took forever to get right was the TPS adjustment. Everytime I would tighten the screws for the TPS it would end up moving and throw the thing off. I finally got it set but if anyone can suggest a method for this that works I I would be much obliged.

[/thread hijack]

[docc]

I had this issue as well recently after a TB sync and TPS adjustment as outlined in the How to area of the site. Searching the forum I came upon a thread on TPS and sync that was intriguing and thought I would give it a shot after not being able to get rid of the popping with my PC by richening things up.

 

http://www.v11lemans...=13188&hl=Micha

 

Basically after doing the procedure in the 3rd post down (Mr. Bean) my issues stopped and I see a bit of burbling in the 4-5k range on deceleration now. Rides great and is a marked improvement. I am running a mod of the map posted by gh67 in the fileshare area that seems promising.

 

[Thread hijack]

What I had real issues with and took forever to get right was the TPS adjustment. Everytime I would tighten the screws for the TPS it would end up moving and throw the thing off. I finally got it set but if anyone can suggest a method for this that works I I would be much obliged.

[/thread hijack]

 

Bo,

 

Are you still using the tiny original hold down screws on the TPS (were they Torx)? It definitely helps to replace them with some more common hex drives. The little bugger still wants to drift, but tool control is improved.

[raz]

Are you still using the tiny original hold down screws on the TPS (were they Torx)? It definitely helps to replace them with some more common hex drives. The little bugger still wants to drift, but tool control is improved.

IMHO better tool control is precisely what Torx is about. Provided you do have a Torx tool of course, and not try using a hex drive that almost fits.

[docc]

Are you still using the tiny original hold down screws on the TPS (were they Torx)? It definitely helps to replace them with some more common hex drives. The little bugger still wants to drift, but tool control is improved.

IMHO better tool control is precisely what Torx is about. Provided you do have a Torx tool of course, and not try using a hex drive that almost fits.

 

None of my Torx T-20 would clear the bottom of the tank. I built a tool for it, but it was fiddly. I learned from someone here on the forum to install simple hex drive fasteners that take a normal ninety degree 3mm Allen key which makes the tightening process much less fiddly for me. Certainly, the capture, or "bite", is much reliable with the Torx. With the exception that the original fasteners for the TPS were quite shallow, as I recall.

 

So many "mapping" issues are inter-related to "tuning" issues. One of the conundra of the FI is the way you can compensate, overcome, or otherwise cover up some shortcoming by tweaking, or cheating, or 'tuning' some other sensor, input, or the map itself.

 

Good, though, I think; better than wire drilling jets and clipping advance springs!

[raz]

None of my Torx T-20 would clear the bottom of the tank

Aha, that may be a difference between our bikes. I guess my tank is narrower. Anyway regardless of screw heads I just push the TPS down hard with a finger once it's fine, and tighten up gently. I think it's harder to get the valve lash spot on. Why oh why did they not use a fine pitch thread for the valve adjuster screw?!

 

So many "mapping" issues are inter-related to "tuning" issues. One of the conundra of the FI is the way you can compensate, overcome, or otherwise cover up some shortcoming by tweaking, or cheating, or 'tuning' some other sensor, input, or the map itself.

That's for sure. And a mistuned bike will, for example, probably not run very good with a generic V11 map for PCIII either, so that route is not a good way of cheating.

[gstallons]

Are you still using the tiny original hold down screws on the TPS (were they Torx)? It definitely helps to replace them with some more common hex drives. The little bugger still wants to drift, but tool control is improved.

IMHO better tool control is precisely what Torx is about. Provided you do have a Torx tool of course, and not try using a hex drive that almost fits.

 

None of my Torx T-20 would clear the bottom of the tank. I built a tool for it, but it was fiddly. I learned from someone here on the forum to install simple hex drive fasteners that take a normal ninety degree 3mm Allen key which makes the tightening process much less fiddly for me. Certainly, the capture, or "bite", is much reliable with the Torx. With the exception that the original fasteners for the TPS were quite shallow, as I recall.

 

So many "mapping" issues are inter-related to "tuning" issues. One of the conundra of the FI is the way you can compensate, overcome, or otherwise cover up some shortcoming by tweaking, or cheating, or 'tuning' some other sensor, input, or the map itself.

 

Good, though, I think; better than wire drilling jets and clipping advance springs!

 

You can purchase a Tox bit that has a 1/4" shank. You can use a 1/4" wrench to loosen n tighten the screws with. Send me your address n I will mail you one . If you can't wait go to an auto parts store or sears and get one..........

[Bocephus]

I do have the original bits in it and the solution for it because of the tank interference was to use a torx bit normally used in a removable head driver set and a 1/4 wrench over that with tape. Not the most optimum of solutions but eventually worked.

 

I would have much better control with a hex due to the bend. I am sure with time and practice things will get much smoother as well. It's the little things like getting the feel for it that I am lacking in experience.

 

More than likely I am over tightening and causing it to move. My finger dexterity is not the greatest.

[Skeeve]

Certainly, the capture, or "bite", is much reliable with the Torx. With the exception that the original fasteners for the TPS were quite shallow, as I recall.

 

Torx vs. Allen keys is like the difference btw 12pt & 6pt sockets: yes, the Torx gives you more options for proper insertion, so it seems like it has a more reliable engagement, but the Allen can actually take some torque before it strips [given properly sized keys; no Indian nor ChinAlpha tools need apply! ]

 

Since Torx can get a grip so much easier, they're also better for smaller/shallower screw heads. But that just means they can only handle that much less torque... It's a trade-off. Any application that can accept an Allen-type socket head cap screw of proper hardness, you're better off upgrading and eliminating that extra degree of fastener "captivity" [it certainly isn't a degree of freedom, having to carry extra tools around! ]