Rear brake questions

[tmcafe]

I know the subject has been discussed a lot, so I apologize if the questions are silly, but here goes:

 

Looking to cure the screeching noise from my rear brake I noticed that the pads are gone so they need replaced pronto. Are there any common pads that can be found at any bike shop that happens to be open on Saturday?

 

Also while removing the caliper to clean it I unscrewed by mistake one of the caliper screws instead of the one that holds the caliper to the bracket. The screw looked like brass and it's most likely an M8x1.25. Given that they hold the caliper together how critical is it for them to be torqued to an identical value? I don't know what they were torqued to by Brembo. Assuming it's about 25-30 Nm given the size of the screw. Any suggestions what to do?

 

Thanks in advance!

[gstallons]

I know the subject has been discussed a lot, so I apologize if the questions are silly, but here goes:

 

Looking to cure the screeching noise from my rear brake I noticed that the pads are gone so they need replaced pronto. Are there any common pads that can be found at any bike shop that happens to be open on Saturday?

 

Also while removing the caliper to clean it I unscrewed by mistake one of the caliper screws instead of the one that holds the caliper to the bracket. The screw looked like brass and it's most likely an M8x1.25. Given that they hold the caliper together how critical is it for them to be torqued to an identical value? I don't know what they were torqued to by Brembo. Assuming it's about 25-30 Nm given the size of the screw. Any suggestions what to do?

 

Thanks in advance!

What did you use to "clean" the caliper ? Do NOT use any type or kind of petroleum product around any brake parts.

Take one of the pads with you. As far a torque value, do you have a torque wrench? I would say 25-30 ft.lbs. ? Or you could see how much effort it takes to break the other fastener loose.

[tmcafe]

What did you use to "clean" the caliper ? Do NOT use any type or kind of petroleum product around any brake parts.

Take one of the pads with you. As far a torque value, do you have a torque wrench? I would say 25-30 ft.lbs. ? Or you could see how much effort it takes to break the other fastener loose.

 

Thanks, last time I cleaned it I think I used brake cleaner and brake fluid for the pistons. No, I won't use oily stuff. I was thinking of a solution of simple green as I saw somewhere on this forum. I have a torque wrench, should pe pretty accurate. Didn't think about the 'breakaway' torque value, I'll try that. Also looks like there was some threadlocker on the screw.

[gstallons]

If you feel the need to, use Loctite blue & clean the threads on the screw and hole before installing.

[tmcafe]

If you feel the need to, use Loctite blue & clean the threads on the screw and hole before installing.

Thanks, I did use a little blue loctite. Also I'm thinking of using a tiny dab of paint as a torque check mark. Anally retentive? Probably.

[gstallons]

No....the paint is a good idea. I don't like many things falling off my bike.

[tmcafe]

Update: fcuking krapp! Can't fit the new pads in!!

 

Found some Brembo pads like the old ones at a Honda/Duc shop. While cleaning the caliper I wanted to push out a bit more the pistons to clean them well so I pressed the brake while holding down the other piston. Yes, prolly dumb. I cleaned the pistons and managed to push back the one that had stuck out a bit too much, but now I can't fit the new pads. The pistons are sticking out enough to make no room for the rotor. Shite!

 

I'm thinking maybe I got some air in the system. Maybe I should put the shot pads back in and bleed the brake? Or let some fluid leak while I press the pistons flush with the caliper to make room for the new pads, then refill and bleed?

 

Yes, it's dumb, but sure there must be a way to fix this.

[Skeeve]

Update: fcuking krapp! Can't fit the new pads in!!

 

Found some Brembo pads like the old ones at a Honda/Duc shop. While cleaning the caliper I wanted to push out a bit more the pistons to clean them well so I pressed the brake while holding down the other piston. Yes, prolly dumb. I cleaned the pistons and managed to push back the one that had stuck out a bit too much, but now I can't fit the new pads. The pistons are sticking out enough to make no room for the rotor. Shite!

 

I'm thinking maybe I got some air in the system. Maybe I should put the shot pads back in and bleed the brake? Or let some fluid leak while I press the pistons flush with the caliper to make room for the new pads, then refill and bleed?

 

Yes, it's dumb, but sure there must be a way to fix this.

 

Two wooden wedges like the ones sold in Home Depot for hanging doors plumb, driven in opposite each other from the ends of the caliper [in place of the disc rotor] should enable you to push the pistons back into their bores. Yes, that means dismounting the caliper, opening bleed to drain fluid, possibly removing new pads, etc. until you have enough space to fit the wedges and can get at them w/ a mallet. That's why C clamps are an integral part of a brake job, at least on cars, so you can press the dang pistons back into place before putting in the new pads...

[raz]

One set of pads I had was too thick so I had to file them down. Pistons were fully in, but pads would not fit. Not sure what type they were, I got them from the PO. After this I take care to buy pads that doesn't only look the same but also is listed for my calipers.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Here in NA the EBC pads seem to be used by several bikes, heres the catalog page c/w dimension, these are the ones I ordered.

 

The trick with tightening a strange screw is tighten it till it strips then loosen it half a turn, just kidding.

 

Roy

Page 99 of EBC Catalog.pdf

Page 171 of EBC Catalog.pdf

[tmcafe]

Thanks everybody for the helpful info. Turned out that I had overlooked the obvious. A riding buddy who's also a good mechanic suggested that if the pads were completely worn and I had added fluid, the pistons may not have room to be pushed back in completely to fit the new pads. Sure enough, with the pistons pushed in as far as they would go, the fluid in the reservoir was about to burst out. I used a small syringe to draw much of that extra fluid and the pistons went all the way in with little trouble. Pads installed, and then I bled the brake (bleed needle up as recommended here). So all is well, except for a rotor that has seen better days.

 

After all, even this is a simplistic view, the braking system ideally is a closed system, so there is so much you can put in it (fluid, pad thickness, hi-temp expansion) before it gets full.