!Update 10/15/11! Shifting still bad .Almost killed me !

[theoneandonly]

have had similar problem with two bikes . first check pawl arm dia, that spring goes around, should be 15mm if it is 16mm... CHANGE IT . shifting problem....take off side plate and check that it is not OVER SHIFTING. if it is put some weld inside the shift hole (this limits movement of gear lever) you watch the roller/detent arm to see what is happening, and modify accordingly.

[mznyc]

have had similar problem with two bikes . first check pawl arm dia, that spring goes around, should be 15mm if it is 16mm... CHANGE IT . shifting problem....take off side plate and check that it is not OVER SHIFTING. if it is put some weld inside the shift hole (this limits movement of gear lever) you watch the roller/detent arm to see what is happening, and modify accordingly.

Thanks theoneandonly,

Checked pawl arm a while back,PO must have replaced it with the correct one while dealing all the problems he had with this box.

I'll be replacing all three springs once the snow clears Cant open the shed till then <_>

[al_roethlisberger]

have had similar problem with two bikes . first check pawl arm dia, that spring goes around, should be 15mm if it is 16mm... CHANGE IT . shifting problem....take off side plate and check that it is not OVER SHIFTING. if it is put some weld inside the shift hole (this limits movement of gear lever) you watch the roller/detent arm to see what is happening, and modify accordingly.

 

 

I see that the PO changed the plate to the correct pawl arm, but some of the aftermarket springs were designed to overcome this problem and may be the larger diameter. So I'm not sure what type of inaccuracies you might get with a 15mm pawl and 16mm spring. I'd also suggest making sure you aren't "mixing solutions" to the problem and getting inconsistent results.

 

Al

[Baldini]

....Al

 

Welcome back!

 

KB

[mznyc]

....Al

 

Welcome back!

 

KB

+1

Thanks Al,all springs have been sourced from Mich at MI a few months ago,so would assume they're all up to date. I'll be gettin into this next few weeks

[mznyc]

OK I'm getting back into this in the next few days.

I want to do the "roadside spring repair method(Keith or Bal?)" of getting the cover off as the redline is fresh and I don't want to lose it.

How far over do I have to be in order to not create a pool of the red gold on the workspace?

Thanks

Michael

[Baldini]

OK I'm getting back into this in the next few days.

I want to do the "roadside spring repair method(Keith or Bal?)" of getting the cover off as the redline is fresh and I don't want to lose it.

How far over do I have to be in order to not create a pool of the red gold on the workspace?

Thanks

Michael

 

I dunno, I drained it each time. BFG did it with oil in. If you want to save it, why not drain it & put same back in when finished?

 

KB

[mznyc]

Put this outa my mind since the holidays,couldn't remember who did the "roadside repair",thanks Keith. Trying to streamline this as Ive spent a fair amount of time on it and if I can reduce a step ,may expidite things,

Belfast waydaya think?

Thanks,

Michael

[jrt]

I'm sure he'll get back to you, but the easy way to estimate is to draw an imaginary line horizontally through the crankcase at the 'full' bolt. Now rotate the bike. My gut tells me ~30 degrees. My gut also has a couple of glasses of Whisky in it, so....take that into consideration. In my defense, it is good Scotch, not wobbly rotgut stuff.

I guess if you want to be sure, then just lay the bike all the way over on its side on some cardboard boxes or something to cushion it.

[mznyc]

I'm sure he'll get back to you, but the easy way to estimate is to draw an imaginary line horizontally through the crankcase at the 'full' bolt. Now rotate the bike. My gut tells me ~30 degrees. My gut also has a couple of glasses of Whisky in it, so....take that into consideration. In my defense, it is good Scotch, not wobbly rotgut stuff.

I guess if you want to be sure, then just lay the bike all the way over on its side on some cardboard boxes or something to cushion it.

Thanks Jason,Id drain her first before putting her down on the ground.

I'm sorry,

#1 That we didnt get to ride before your move

#2 That your in St Louis,not the best place to take advantage of the Guzze's cornering ablilities

[mznyc]

I replaced all three springs in the cover last week and new Red Line fluid.(Old fluid was only 6 months old and only a few hundred miles).

Took it out for a ride today,and FMe I'm still getting FN's

So I'm down to three possibilities.

1) Just a bad box,find a good one and replace it

2)Tighter shift linkage.Not much play in there,but not a lot of room to adjust up or down without hitting pork chop in 1st or frame in 6th.Currently not hitting anything either way,but not an optimal position for me.Maybe cut down that threaded linkage to shorten play or go with adjustable rear-sets.Which Ive wanted for both sides but cost has prevented me.

3)The clutch is shot.No symptoms,no slipping,disengages when pulled in.With the cost of a replacement and time it would take(Id do it myself) and the fact that the bike only has 19k on it I'm hoping that's not it.The fact that it wasnt missing gears for the first few seasons I owned it prevents me from eliminating this possibility.

I was able to get clean gear changes if I pulled the clutch in,waited and eight of a second,change gear,wait and eight of a second then let out clutch.

I have several other bikes and zip up and down gears in spirited sport rides, rarely missing for many years.

Thoughts?

[jrt]

That's odd and I'm pretty well stumped at this point.

I really doubt your #2- I've replaced the linkage on my V11, but there is zero lash...On the other hand, I have pretty decent shifting on my Eldorado, which is loose enough to make all sorts of mysogynistic comments on. Different boxes??? I know the old 5 speed enjoys deliberate shifting, but really that much different? If I had to guess, I would start with clutch, simply on cost analysis.

 

But, as point of pride- St. Louis actually does have some interesting riding areas. The Ozark Mtn's aren't too far as well as some other regions.

I enjoyed the North East quite a lot but I don't feel too left out here. It's different, but nice. Frankly, I have been very lucky to spend saddle time in most of the US. I've even enjoyed riding across Kansas. It's all about timing, I suppose.

I'd still like to go for a ride with you sometime- I'm sorry we couldn't connect when I was up there.

But, as Arnie said...'I'll be back'

 

[Edit] Have you messed with the alignment bolt on the back on the tranny? Is it still there on the 6 speed or do I just remember it from the 5 speed? Sorry- I'm upstairs and my bike is in the basement. Too damn lazy to go look.

[pete roper]

I'd not been following this thread, or I'm afraid the board, much recently but I'd have to say that at this point the only way you're going to get a resolution is to stop frigging about and pull the gearbox, get it on the bench and take it to bits.

 

Before you do this though I'd have a close look at the clutch. Given that all the crap with the spring boss and cam-plates looks OK and the problem occurs with heat I'd be looking at the clutch. Firstly it should be ensured it's bled properly with DOT4 fluid, then if that fails to sort it the box has to come off and the clutch itself examined.

 

I agree with Hubert that the V11 box is pretty much bulletproof and likes the dark! Regardless of whether the problem is box or clutch related the simple fact is that at this point the box has to come off. Piss-farting about won't make it get better on its own.

 

Pete

[mznyc]

Hi Pete

Thanks for the input.I have bled the clutch,no change.

I would not dispute that the gearbox is durable(bulletproof),just way to high a ratio of owners have had some kind of poorly,non-functioning operating problem.In this thread alone 6 people are sayin they have a similar problem.My guess is that it's hundreds,if we did a poll and everyone responded .

With the exploding Scura clutch problem pulling the engine may be inevitable.Just trying all external things before that as I dont have a proper garage/shop.Did you replace yours via Ram,or go with a twin plater?

Thanks

Michael

[mznyc]

Interesting observation,

while fooling with the linkage.With the cover on,and manually operating the linkage I can move up a gear or down but not past second.Should I be able to?Do I need to be under power? When I had the cover off I was able to move the selector wheels by hand through all gears.When I went out a couple of days ago I was able to get through the gears with the false neutrals under power.

Wonder if this could be a symptom of something other than the springs out of spec in the cover.The PO had changed the pawl arm 6,7 years ago with the 15mm pawl arm and updated spring,and i just changed all springs, so confident those are good.

Thoughts,....