Portugal

[Orson]

I recently had the opportunity to go to Portugal to get one last ride in before the winter rains set in so, I jumped at it! I left my friend's home near Porto towards Braga then, turned southeast towards the river Duoro. The weatherman called for morning clouds & clearing in the afternoon. I reached the Duoro around lunchtime.

 

Most restaurants in Portugal offer a "prato do dia" for a few Euros. None of that namby pamby yuppified wine valley gourmet cuisine here! Just basic unpretentious plow man meat & potatoes dishes. Unpretentious like the country itself. I liked it

 

After lunch I headed back west along the north bank of the Duoro. The Michelin map showed it as green but, that didn't mean it was in good condition! It was more like Beemer GS territory. The Guzzi, not knowing any better, thumped along dutifully I worked my way back along the back roads to Porto to a nice meal & a warm bed

[Orson]

I woke up to overcast skies but again the weatherman called for clearing skies. This time I headed towards the Duoro River again only this time, I would travel east along the south bank. After getting lost in downtown Porto (it happens just about every day in Europe. I get used to it) I finally found the river. What a difference! The south side has been recently repaved & was nothing but 2nd & 3rd gear bends all the way to Resende, climbing up & down the valley side with gorgeous views of the river below. This definitely merits mentioning as one of the most scenic rides in Europe. There was very little traffic this time of year to spoil the fun.

 

Along the way, I got lost again I knew something was wrong because I was climbing into the clouds & couldn't see the river anymore. I came across a couple of moto cops escorting an oversized load. They were stopped while the truck driver adjusted his chains so, I stopped and asked the cops directions. I asked them if I could get back to Resende by continuing in the direction I was going. The cop became very animated, making snaking motions with his hand and saying something about the Duoro a la izquierda & pointing back from where I came. You gotta love a place where the cops insist you enjoy the twisties

 

I turned around & headed back. It's too bad because it was also a freshly paved curvey road. Oh well. Maybe another day. The town of Resende sits in a gorgeous part of the river & is known for its thermal springs. I could live there very easily

 

Here, near the confluence of the Duoro & Texeira rivers, the mighty mighty Goose lies in repose, relaxing near the end of a hard day of dispatching trucks, buses & other foes to meet their makers.

[Orson]

The third day called for cloudy skies but, I would receive a bonus as I could see patches of blue by 9:00 a.m. The skies would eventually clear for a gloriously sunny November day. I started to make my way towards Braganca in the far northeastern corner of Portugal.

 

Here is a shot I took as I was climbing out of the Duoro valley. You might be able to make out the terraces for the grape vines. Centuries ago, a few generations broke their backs constructing these terraces so that their descendants could enjoy the fruits of their labors, literally. The terraces still require constant repairing though. Only grapes grown at a certain elevation along the valley get to grow up to be the fortified stuff we know as port wine. Too high or too low, & they get relegated to mere wine status. Of course, being the V11 Le Mans.com representative on sight, I took it upon myself to sample several vintages, all in the line of duty, of course

[Orson]

Heading northeast towards Braganca, I got on the IP4 route. At first it seemed like a super slab & I thought that maybe I had picked the wrong route. However, the road turned into a super high speed curve-fest. 6th gear 100 mph sweepers through the Sierra de Noguiera with hardly a straightaway in sight. 100 mph sweepers aren't really my cup of tea ( I prefer 3rd & 4th gear twisties) but, it was a nice change after the tight twisty stuff of the Duoro Valley.

 

After lunch in Braganca, I turned back to the west & headed towards Chavez, along the top of Portugal, paralleling the Spanish border to the north. Although, I missed the peak of the autumn leaves, there were still a few around. This part of the road was a little slower, 3rd & 4th gear stuff but, just as enjoyable.

[Orson]

Roads through some of the villages butted right up to the houses giving it that Isle of Man feel . As there is only one Guzzi dealer in all of Portugal, I'm sure many of the villagers had never before heard the majestically symphonic sounds emitted by a Guzzi. I'm quite sure if I had stopped, crowds would have formed, the mayor would have stepped forward presenting me the key to the village & inviting me to a night of feast & celebration. But, being the consumate photo-journalist wannabe that I am, I had to continue on my mission to discover more lovely roads to ride

[Orson]

One can't challenge the motorcycle gods for 4 straight days in November & not expect to escape unscathed. Such was the case this time. Time to pay for my audaciousness. On my 4th & last day, I woke up to a drizzling rain. Fortunately, I had allowed for this & only had a short 100 mile trip back to Porto with the option for a longer loop if I had gotten better weather. Of course, me being the glutton for punishment that I am & seeing as this was my last ride of the year well...naturally I took the long route in the rain

 

It was brutal. I had to tip toe through drizzly foggy mountains since my front tire was well past its due date (see 100 mph sweeper section). It was a slog. My visor misted up, I even had to let a few cars pass me! Horrors! To top it off, my aerostich did the crotch leak thing (mutter). I made the 150 miles in about 4 and a half hours. Washed the bike, took a hot shower, one last glass of port(or three) then, off to the airport.

 

I'm proud to report that the Guzzi ran flawlessly throughout the trip. I absolutely love it as a sport touring mount!

 

Here is one last shot from a better day. Sunset over the Rio Duoro.

[Admin Jaap]

Damn Orson, now I have to add Portugal on my "to ride list" too!

[al_roethlisberger]

I'm jealous

[Guest callithrix]

Ditto!! Beautiful bike and beautiful country. Love the Tenni.