Installed K&N pods can't stop intake pop

[vanman]

03 no engine work done, valves set to world specs. I just connected power commander and don't know much about setting it up. the throttle balance and tps are set up as close as I can get them . It just seems as though the ignition timing is a little early as the fuel in the intake manifold explodes or pops on decel- this is mostly at 1500-2900 RPM otherwise beyond 3000 rpm runs great & pulls strong. Should I get different map? change tps (@150mv completely disconnected) or it possible to change ignition timing? thanks for any suggestions, John

[docc]

Hi, VanMan!

 

What is your TPS setting at idle? And your idle RPM?

 

Also, please go to your profile and show a location. This will help other members know better how to help.

 

Keep us posted, no? docc

[vanman]

Hi, VanMan!

 

What is your TPS setting at idle? And your idle RPM?

 

Also, please go to your profile and show a location. This will help other members know better how to help.

 

Keep us posted, no? docc

Docc Thanks for the reply, My tps at idle I can set at 521 as per instruction on this site but the idle is a bit to low, 900-1000rpm. The air bleed screws are open 1 full turn my idle is balanced (with manomometer) at both low and higher revs. I find it idles best at 625mv. The idle is smooth and balanced, but upon revving or riding thebackfiring thru the intake occurs. I noticed if I ride while bike is still cool it is minimal but gets worse when fully warmed up= I have tried setting the powcmd richer and leaner and it did not seem to improve either way. I will go to the profile now

[Kiwi_Roy]

Hi, VanMan!

 

What is your TPS setting at idle? And your idle RPM?

 

Also, please go to your profile and show a location. This will help other members know better how to help.

 

Keep us posted, no? docc

I found my V11 did not seem to run quite right with the K&Ns connected directly to the throttle body so I extended them using the original rubber hose from the air box. I'm sure it made a difference.

It's easy to test anyway, just jamb the K&Ns into the rubber fitting.

Roy

[vanman]

I found my V11 did not seem to run quite right with the K&Ns connected directly to the throttle body so I extended them using the original rubber hose from the air box. I'm sure it made a difference.

It's easy to test anyway, just jamb the K&Ns into the rubber fitting.

Roy

That seems like a good idea, I think I read somewhere that a longer intake runner could help, so I installed about an 1 1/2 inch rubber extension between the K&N and the thottle body, maybe this is not long enough. but my thought is that the ignited fuel in the intake is because the spark is too early (before the intake valve completely closes) or something else, perhaps ignition from hot carbon or intake valve closing too late. My guees would be pre=ignition but maybe the injector is dribbling fuel and lighting up? It just seems as though the spark timing could be a bit too far advanced at these RPMs (2200=2900rpm) Thanks for your advise.

[vanman]

On this topic= as I said earlier I am not that familiar with power commmander set up, my previous ikes have all had carburators, the map sent with the unit was for a stock bike 2000-2001Guzzi,706-411 part # and I have tried 1 other map that Dynojet has on their site that was for a euro bike w/pods--perhaps these maps are not the best ones for my bike, I would like advice on other possible maps that would make the bike very streetable as I will not be racing it. thanks in advance for any ideas, My Lemans also thanks you!

[Cliff]

Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.

 

What Cliff neglected to say, he builds an excelent replacement for the stock ECU called MyECU It takes the place of the ECU and Power Commander alowing you free access to the Maping It also allows for self tuning.

 

Just ask Raz

 

BTW, mines going great

[vanman]

Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.

 

What Cliff neglected to say, he builds an excelent replacement for the stock ECU called MyECU It takes the place of the ECU and Power Commander alowing you free access to the Maping It also allows for self tuning.

 

Just ask Raz

 

BTW, mines going great

Thanks cliff and Roy I saw articles about the myECU but did ot think I had the wherewithal to assemble or above my paygrade but I tried another map that had much higher numbers at the lower revs 1500-2500 and it seems much better but not perfect so I will raise the numbers on a cloned map and up the richness more, hopefully with better results. Beyond 3000rpms I am very happy with this map ... My guess is to up the numbers in the 2000-2900 tables and see if it gets better you know, experiment. Your Idea to richen up the lower revs makes a lot of sense, tomorrow I will start playiny with this map..Thanks

[Kiwi_Roy]

Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.

 

What Cliff neglected to say, he builds an excelent replacement for the stock ECU called MyECU It takes the place of the ECU and Power Commander alowing you free access to the Maping It also allows for self tuning.

 

Just ask Raz

 

BTW, mines going great

Thanks cliff and Roy I saw articles about the myECU but did ot think I had the wherewithal to assemble or above my paygrade but I tried another map that had much higher numbers at the lower revs 1500-2500 and it seems much better but not perfect so I will raise the numbers on a cloned map and up the richness more, hopefully with better results. Beyond 3000rpms I am very happy with this map ... My guess is to up the numbers in the 2000-2900 tables and see if it gets better you know, experiment. Your Idea to richen up the lower revs makes a lot of sense, tomorrow I will start playiny with this map..Thanks

I made a little gadget that allowed me to adjust the TPS mV on the fly, slide up and down the map, send me a PM if you'd like to try it.

[vanman]

Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.

 

What Cliff neglected to say, he builds an excelent replacement for the stock ECU called MyECU It takes the place of the ECU and Power Commander alowing you free access to the Maping It also allows for self tuning.

 

Just ask Raz

 

BTW, mines going great

Thanks cliff and Roy I saw articles about the myECU but did ot think I had the wherewithal to assemble or above my paygrade but I tried another map that had much higher numbers at the lower revs 1500-2500 and it seems much better but not perfect so I will raise the numbers on a cloned map and up the richness more, hopefully with better results. Beyond 3000rpms I am very happy with this map ... My guess is to up the numbers in the 2000-2900 tables and see if it gets better you know, experiment. Your Idea to richen up the lower revs makes a lot of sense, tomorrow I will start playiny with this map..Thanks

I made a little gadget that allowed me to adjust the TPS mV on the fly, slide up and down the map, send me a PM if you'd like to try it.

Thank you Roy for your offer, I may take you up on it in the future but first I think I'll play with this map for a few days to see what I can figure out. The bike runs great outside of the decel poping and that is not as bad as before. I have read some threads about pods vs. open box but I am not concerned about peak HP, as long as the bike performs good. I think it would be cool to see what other maps look like on bikes that have pods. It seems as if not to many choices are on the pwrcmd site. The map I'm using is m706-503djm it has two fuel tables, and fuel table 2 had larger numbers in the lower rpm's .. I will add richness about 5% to column (throttle position) 2 & 5 at the row (RPM)1500-2750 to see if it is rich enough where my intake pop is happening. still open to any advice, I am a newby to FI

[Dan M]

............. I have read some threads about pods vs. open box but I am not concerned about peak HP, as long as the bike performs good. I think it would be cool to see what other maps look like on bikes that have pods. It seems as if not to many choices are on the pwrcmd site. The map I'm using is m706-503djm it has two fuel tables, and fuel table 2 had larger numbers in the lower rpm's .. I will add richness about 5% to column (throttle position) 2 & 5 at the row (RPM)1500-2750 to see if it is rich enough where my intake pop is happening. still open to any advice, I am a newby to FI

 

 

Increase your fuel 500rpm lower than where your problem occurs and in the 10% throttle column in addition to what you are doing. Start with 5% but you may have add more.

Are you running aftermarket crossover and mufflers?

 

Did you look at the maps here?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

 

edit: Oh and, welcome vanman.

[vanman]

............. I have read some threads about pods vs. open box but I am not concerned about peak HP, as long as the bike performs good. I think it would be cool to see what other maps look like on bikes that have pods. It seems as if not to many choices are on the pwrcmd site. The map I'm using is m706-503djm it has two fuel tables, and fuel table 2 had larger numbers in the lower rpm's .. I will add richness about 5% to column (throttle position) 2 & 5 at the row (RPM)1500-2750 to see if it is rich enough where my intake pop is happening. still open to any advice, I am a newby to FI

 

 

Increase your fuel 500rpm lower than where your problem occurs and in the 10% throttle column in addition to what you are doing. Start with 5% but you may have add more.

Are you running aftermarket crossover and mufflers?

 

Did you look at the maps here?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

 

edit: Oh and, welcome vanman.

Thanks DAN that is the kind of info I need. Yesterday I richened the map quite a bit and got mixed results, I was going to look at the numbers to compare with other maps to look for similar trends. I have a K&N on my roadstar & that bike will run on about any jet I put in it. But the info you just gave me gives me a much better starting point. my exhaust are stock but I bought the bike used and the cans had a few dents in them, I flipped them over and cut off about 3 or 4 inches and riveted back together they are just open pipes with a perforated baffle & fiberglass packing. now they are just a little shorter, I like to have bags (hit the store on the way home) and the cans are turned down a bit to allow more room for the bags. I saw those maps you forwarded the ones with pods didn't have very large (richer) numbers? Many thanks, John

[vanman]

............. I have read some threads about pods vs. open box but I am not concerned about peak HP, as long as the bike performs good. I think it would be cool to see what other maps look like on bikes that have pods. It seems as if not to many choices are on the pwrcmd site. The map I'm using is m706-503djm it has two fuel tables, and fuel table 2 had larger numbers in the lower rpm's .. I will add richness about 5% to column (throttle position) 2 & 5 at the row (RPM)1500-2750 to see if it is rich enough where my intake pop is happening. still open to any advice, I am a newby to FI

 

 

Increase your fuel 500rpm lower than where your problem occurs and in the 10% throttle column in addition to what you are doing. Start with 5% but you may have add more.

Are you running aftermarket crossover and mufflers?

 

Did you look at the maps here?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

 

edit: Oh and, welcome vanman.

Thanks DAN that is the kind of info I need. Yesterday I richened the map quite a bit and got mixed results, I was going to look at the numbers to compare with other maps to look for similar trends. I have a K&N on my roadstar & that bike will run on about any jet I put in it. But the info you just gave me gives me a much better starting point. my exhaust are stock but I bought the bike used and the cans had a few dents in them, I flipped them over and cut off about 3 or 4 inches and riveted back together they are just open pipes with a perforated baffle & fiberglass packing. now they are just a little shorter, I like to have bags (hit the store on the way home) and the cans are turned down a bit to allow more room for the bags. I saw those maps you forwarded the ones with pods didn't have very large (richer) numbers? Many thanks, John

Update, I got the poping to go away, you all were right, it was too lean- but I realize now this aaaa Seat of the pants tuning does not work (with any accuracy) I cant tell if I am too lean or too rich without diagnotic equipment; so I have called a couple shops, let me know what you guys think-- for 90 bones a map produced with a exhaust gas anylyser (Guzzi shop) or 300 bones gets me a dyno tune at a genuine Tuning center

[Dan M]

............. I have read some threads about pods vs. open box but I am not concerned about peak HP, as long as the bike performs good. I think it would be cool to see what other maps look like on bikes that have pods. It seems as if not to many choices are on the pwrcmd site. The map I'm using is m706-503djm it has two fuel tables, and fuel table 2 had larger numbers in the lower rpm's .. I will add richness about 5% to column (throttle position) 2 & 5 at the row (RPM)1500-2750 to see if it is rich enough where my intake pop is happening. still open to any advice, I am a newby to FI

 

 

Increase your fuel 500rpm lower than where your problem occurs and in the 10% throttle column in addition to what you are doing. Start with 5% but you may have add more.

Are you running aftermarket crossover and mufflers?

 

Did you look at the maps here?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

 

edit: Oh and, welcome vanman.

Thanks DAN that is the kind of info I need. Yesterday I richened the map quite a bit and got mixed results, I was going to look at the numbers to compare with other maps to look for similar trends. I have a K&N on my roadstar & that bike will run on about any jet I put in it. But the info you just gave me gives me a much better starting point. my exhaust are stock but I bought the bike used and the cans had a few dents in them, I flipped them over and cut off about 3 or 4 inches and riveted back together they are just open pipes with a perforated baffle & fiberglass packing. now they are just a little shorter, I like to have bags (hit the store on the way home) and the cans are turned down a bit to allow more room for the bags. I saw those maps you forwarded the ones with pods didn't have very large (richer) numbers? Many thanks, John

Update, I got the poping to go away, you all were right, it was too lean- but I realize now this aaaa Seat of the pants tuning does not work (with any accuracy) I cant tell if I am too lean or too rich without diagnotic equipment; so I have called a couple shops, let me know what you guys think-- for 90 bones a map produced with a exhaust gas anylyser (Guzzi shop) or 300 bones gets me a dyno tune at a genuine Tuning center

 

You can get closer than you think. Tuning with a gas analyzer will only be able to take readings at idle and at low throttle openings with no load so you won't get much for your $90. It is a good way to adjust your idle CO but not much else. You can read your spark plugs under those conditions and get pretty close yourself. A dyno run would be more useful but you can get your bike running right without it. I started with the 706-003 map as you did and added fuel in the same area. I do not have pods but I have a modified air box lid, FBF crossover and M4 mufflers. It ran very well like that in all but the hottest weather. The temp sensor change took care of the hot weather running. After Mike Rich pistons I also added a small amount of fuel at higher RPM ranges and wider throttle openings. No running issues at all now, no rich exhaust odor and improved gas mileage.

Keep at it, these bikes reward you for your efforts.