Guest david scott Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 I am an orthopedic surgeon. We deal with metals a lot with implants. Do not use stainless, too brittle and repetitive bending would tend to fatique the spring and break. Best bet is listen to the spring maker on the best metal, shouldnt be a corrosive problem in the bath of trans fluid. Thanks for your help. I still havent gotten the oklahoma spring yet. Hope to get it tomorrow and get the guzzi going in alabama.
docc Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 put me down for a set . There's that word again . . .
Guest mcloutier Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 I would also be glad to chip in some $'s for a couple of springs. It would be worth it just for the piece of mind of having a spare in the tank bag.
hgravelpha@aol.com Posted November 21, 2003 Author Posted November 21, 2003 I check with several dealerships in my area (LA County, CA) and none had it in stock. I would like to borrow one from one of you so we can use it as a prototype. My supplier would like to look at the unit before he can really recommend what we need. I think we will go with their recommendation. Can someone with a broken pawl spring show us a picture or explained where the fatigue is on this item. We might go one wire size up but we do not know what kind of repercution it would have. We will try this spring first and then work on the others after we have a good working unit. My supplier stated that they will manufacture this unit but will not be liable for any problems cause by their use. So we will be using these springs at our own risk. If someone have an extra unit and can be without it for a month, please send it to: Thang Pham 1441 Brett Place #336 San Pedro, CA 90732
Paul Minnaert Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 one of the springs in my picture is a broken one.
roberto Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 The spring wire diameter is fine as-is. The material should be oil tempered carbon steel to ASTM 229, say 1080. Stess relieving after final forming of the spring may be required, but i'm sure the manufacturer will be aware of this. Stainless is not required. BTW. The spring does not need to apply much force to function correctly. I noticed when I had the side cover off that just tilting it forward was enough to operate the selector (i.e. the weight of the lever provided sufficient force.) This is why I was able to temorarily use an o-ring to restore gearbox function. It's also why stoping and starting the bike can allow you to change gear occasionally following a breakage (perhaps going downhill or during heavy braking). IMHO, the original spring was definitely from a bad batch - the design is fine - perhaps the replacements, if from another batch/manufacturer, are ok too.
docc Posted November 24, 2003 Posted November 24, 2003 Thang, I will send my complete set of three springs no later than Tuesday Nov. 25. If you wil please check with the supplier a price on the complete set.
hgravelpha@aol.com Posted November 24, 2003 Author Posted November 24, 2003 I will check with them for pricing on the complete set. Thank you for sending them because I could not find a dealer in Southern Cal. that had this spring in stock.
emry Posted November 25, 2003 Posted November 25, 2003 because I could not find a dealer in Southern Cal. that had this spring in stock. Figures doesn't it. From the picture I would suspect that the radius at the sharp bend is to small. Using a similar diameter with some quality wire and a larger radius should solve the problems. Hopefully.
Baldini Posted November 25, 2003 Posted November 25, 2003 The bottom of the spring hooks over a plate. In use, as the plate moves, the end of the spring tends to slide sideways towards the edge of the plate. A larger radius will increase this tendency. I think spring needs to be hooked right over the plate, or at least the length of the short arm increased, to ensure retention if the radius is increased. Has anyone got one apart at the moment? KB, Cymru
Guest david scott Posted November 25, 2003 Posted November 25, 2003 KB, just had mine apart to fix it, thanks to you. The plate had an area about 2mm that the spring had moved back and forth on that had rubbed the area shiney. Thought about sanding that plate smoother so as it did not abraid the spring more than necessary. I didnt. elected to see how this spring did. I believe the higher radius will cause less fatique in the spring from the actual construction. It will also give less area on the spring to contact the plate which could be good or bad. Lots of factors to consider. But for me will just wait and see how this (new improved spring?) works out. Daggum do I appreciate this forum, after fixing my transmission, my bike wouldnt start intermittently and getting worse. Thought it was some switch or relay. found the thread on bullet connectors under the seat, put dielectric grease on that, plus every fuse and relay in the bike I could find. No more problem. Without this forum couldnt keep this bike going. Thanks Thanks Thanks david
Guest dkgross Posted November 25, 2003 Posted November 25, 2003 my spring hasn't broken yet either, but count me in on purchasing a few of the new ones from you guys...Saftey in the Tank Bank.
Baldini Posted November 25, 2003 Posted November 25, 2003 Thanks Jaap... ...if only I had a brain To explain above... 1. Standard spring in use twists & pulls down towards the edge of plate. 2. Spring would slide on larger radius further across plate, pos off edge. 3. 180 bend would retain spring. KB, Cymru
al_roethlisberger Posted November 25, 2003 Posted November 25, 2003 I ordered two of the "Blackstock" springs a week ago, but count me in on a whole set of the "improved" springs if we get them... Mine hasn't broken yet(knock on wood) but I'll replace the lot if we get a good set. al
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