California Vintage

[80CX100]

     I'm following this discussion very closely because I intend to upgrade the map on my CalVin asap, yesterday,lol..

     Biesel or Antmanbee, do either of you know or can you tell if that map version of "CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin" from Beetle, was before or after he last upgraded it for DanNC on wildguzzi?

     Are either of you familiar with these maps and could possibly offer an opinion "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21"

     On the bikes that you've tested the maps on, were the valves set for .1 & .15 mm?

     Any other variables that may have affected the performance ie, exhaust & intake mods or changes to tps or trim settings?

     My bike will have a Mistral H pipe with the lambda turned off, Mistral Classics for exhaust, stock intake; I was planning to install the latest version of CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin done for DanNC, and set my valves at .1 & .15 and a little richer on the TPS settings .157 & 500? and make sure my trim is at least in the positive 5?  

     Thanks for testing and sharing the results

      Kelly

[antmanbee]

DanNC's final map was DannyP-Mod12.bin

He went through a number of revisions.

I am not familiar with CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21.  Please tell me what you know about them and send them to me if possible.

Valves are set to .15 and .2

Exhaust and crossover are stock. Intake has airbox removed but still utilizes the velocity stacks that went from the throttle bodies into the airbox with UNI filters on them.

TPS is at .157V base setting

Trim is at +3

[biesel]

My valves are set according to specs (because this is a "modern" Guzzi Breva 1100 engine):

The valve clearance on all 1100/1000 California models (since 1994, frame numbers KC, KD, KG and KH) is:
- Intake valve: 0.10 mm
- Exhaust valve: 0.15 mm

as described in the video on my YT channel:
https://www.youtube.com/user/janguzzi

Yes, I also know Danny from the Wilguzzi forum.
I also have his final Mistral H-Pipe map (DannyP-Mod12.bin - made by beetle) on my notebook.
He wrote me that he did a lot of testing (cold and hot weather together with beetle via email).
But experiences from CalVin or California owners in the German Guzzi Forum cleary show that a H-Pipe is just louder
and therefore you think your Guzzi has more power. You will loose some midrange torque with a H-Pipe.

TPS settings also according to specs: 150 mV
=> turning the stop screw to get  536 mV (+/- 20 mV) = 3.6°

My DÄS Mototec mapping with an open airbox (no snorkles) normally requires a higher CO-trim (approx. 30) but I set it back to 0 because I am using the closed stock airbox. My headers are not getting blue anymore, just a bit yellow when the engine is running longer while not driving.

[80CX100]

Antmanbee,      I tried to send you a pm with copies of those maps, but it appears the system won't allow me to add the attachments and do it, send me a pm with an email address and I can send you what I have.

      I was always leary of those maps, because they don't have the "bin" extension that is normally visible in fuel maps I've seen, although when I saved them, my computer recognized them as guzzidiag files and saved them as such,fwiw.

     CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21 were apparently done by a WG member and installed on the CalVin owned by Geoff from Almonte on WG.

     I have since read correspondence that Beetle had possibly been involved in final fine tuning of those maps. Geoff sent me copies of those maps shortly before he sold the bike to a friend of mine.

    At some point in time I will be working on that bike.

     I went back over my emails with Beetle and it would appear  that CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin is a further refinement of the  DannyP-Mod12.bin map.

  Biesel, I've read some of the CalVin/H Pipe controversy;

     My own CalVin, which I believe has a stock OEM map didn't run bad, but it definitely seemed lean, and ran poorer when hot and at times it did seem to run hotter than normal, imho.

     The theories I've read and am trying to address with an H pipe, was that the collector 3rd muffler was blocking the free flow of hot exhaust gases contributing to the heat problem.

      Tks

       Kelly

[biesel]

Optimize the California Vintage Parking Position

The California Vintage parking position is very tilted.
Maybe the reasons are the special kickstand (also a Jiffy type but the shape is different to the older ones) and the longer shocks (365 mm instead of 340 mm).

Harley drivers use a special wedge for their Jiffy kickstand when they have lowered their bikes with a shorter shock.
In this case the lowered bike stands too straight with the original kickstand.
These adapters fits a California w/o any changes! If you mount it turned 180 degrees it will lift your California 2,5 cm!
You need 4 screws (+ 4 Schnorr washers) with the following lengths:
- top: M8x25 mm and M8x45 mm
- bottom: M8x16 mm and M8x20 mm

In Germany I bought this kind of adapter here:
https://www.dock66.de/Kickstand-Adapter-Harley-Softail-Motorcycle

Before:

After:

Before:

New angle:

[antmanbee]

Good tip. Amazing that it bolts right up with no modifications. Looks like a better way to go than using several washers as spacers.

The CalVin does have a tendency to lean over a little to far .

[Lucky Phil]

6 hours ago, biesel said:

Optimize the California Vintage Parking Position

The California Vintage parking position is very tilted.
Maybe the reasons are the special kickstand (also a Jiffy type but the shape is different to the older ones) and the longer shocks (365 mm instead of 340 mm).

Harley Softail (1984-1999) drivers use a special adapter for their Jiffy kickstand when they have lowered their bikes with a shorter shock.
In this case the lowered bike stands too straight with the original kickstand.
These adapters fits a California w/o any changes! If you mount it turned 180 degrees it will lift your California 2,5 cm!
You need 4 screws with the following lengths:
- top: M8x25 mm and M8x45 mm
- bottom: M8x15 mm and M8x20 mm

In Germany I bought this kind of adapter here:
https://www.dock66.de/Kickstand-Adapter-Harley-Softail-Motorcycle

Before:

After:

Before:

New angle:

It should be fine but i'd keep and eye on the mount bolts for tension and breakage. When you install a wedged shim like that you now introduce a bending load on the bolts when you tighten them up because the threaded bolt hole is no longer perpendicular to the mounting face. just something to keep in mind. It's not great engineering, an additional foot on the end of the stand or a slightly longer stand would be preferable.

Ciao

[Tinus89]

I've taken apart the rear swingarm and observed the following:

- Gearbox rear seal is leaking, some gearbox oil inside the swingarm
- Driveshaft came out of the swingarm way too easily. When I put it back, I could feel it has moveability inside the support bearing. I can wiggle the rear splines about 3mm sideways.
- Rear u-joint has a dead spot.
- Splines were properly greased it seems, however a bit hard to assess with the amount of gearbox oil...

I'm probably looking at a replacement driveshaft+support bearing (and seal), am I not?

 

Edit: also the swingarm bearings are shot, replacement from Stein-Dinse is 72eur each. Is there any alternative part?

[pete roper]

The oil inside the swingarm may well be from the bevelbox. The bevelbox isn't sealed at the pinion on Tonti's and when ridden hard oil may well end up flung forward and sneaks into the UJ chamber. It's harder for it o the 'Big UJ' models but it still happens. Don't ask me how or why. It just does.

If there is a lot of oil in there it may well be the output shaft seal and sadly that may be because the output shaft bearing has bust up its cage. How many Kms on this thing? A lot of them are a bit weepy but it's not worth tearing in to unless the bearing is stuffed. If the seal looks intact and you don't get a clicking noise when tou turn the back wheel with the engine off on the centrestand I'd monitor the gearbox oil level for a bit. As long as it isn't dropping like a stone I'd not worry about it too much.

I'm surprised your driveshaft UJ has a bad trunnion? The later shafts are generally very long lived.

[Tinus89]

3 hours ago, pete roper said:

The oil inside the swingarm may well be from the bevelbox. The bevelbox isn't sealed at the pinion on Tonti's and when ridden hard oil may well end up flung forward and sneaks into the UJ chamber. It's harder for it o the 'Big UJ' models but it still happens. Don't ask me how or why. It just does.

If there is a lot of oil in there it may well be the output shaft seal and sadly that may be because the output shaft bearing has bust up its cage. How many Kms on this thing? A lot of them are a bit weepy but it's not worth tearing in to unless the bearing is stuffed. If the seal looks intact and you don't get a clicking noise when tou turn the back wheel with the engine off on the centrestand I'd monitor the gearbox oil level for a bit. As long as it isn't dropping like a stone I'd not worry about it too much.

I'm surprised your driveshaft UJ has a bad trunnion? The later shafts are generally very long lived.

I would estimate there was about 50-75ml of oil in the swingarm, but all of it was in the front part, front of the support bearing. I'm confident it came from the gearbox, as the area rear of the output seal was laying in a bath of oil as well. The bevel box input shaft was dry.
I'll replace the seal (new one ordered, Viton) and check for the output shaft bearing tomorrow morning.

Yeah, I was a bit surprised as well. Upon further inspection, the shaft-support bearing is a total loose fit. I can wiggle the bearing on the shaft and both inner race as well as shaft bearing face have scores of "slippage". Biesel had this on his shaft too, even the same UJ bearing which went bad, have a look at his videos on YT. Links on P3 of this topic.

The swingarm bearings are fine after all, they are tapered and the play can be adjusted to zero.

 

The bike has done 66.000km (as far as we know, no history). There is a lot of play in the gear/rear brake levers, I'll replace those bushings but maybe she has done more than 66.000km....

[Lucky Phil]

On 5/12/2020 at 7:19 PM, Tinus89 said:

Anyone else who has some knowledge about the TPS setting and readout using GuzziDiag?

I don't live near the bike...

Yes, don't use Guzzidiag for setting the TPS, it isn't accurate enough for TPS setting, use a Multimeter. Follow the usual throttle linkage disconnect and throttle plate fully closed and held there to set the TPS.

Ciao

[biesel]

@ Phil regarding the kickstand:
You have a good point there but I do not expect any problems in reality.
I have used 8.8 zinc plated screws with the correct torque + Schnorr locking washers.

The screw operating the kickstand switch should also be adjusted:

I have also used Schnorr locking washers on the lower frame covers now.

[biesel]

Here is my defective u-joint (at only 38.5000 Km):

I have bought my new one here:
https://hmb-guzzi.de/Universal-joint-complete-with-shaft-Cali-from-2001-on

This is the original part from Elbe for a decent price.

 

[Tinus89]

I've purchased the new driveshaft at TLM at 275eur (faster delivery). Should be delivered tomorrow. I've already set the freezer to MAX. Also replacing the support bearing.

The gearbox output shaft bearing is fine by the way, it is just the seal which is gone.

Adjusted the throttle cables so they don't have 1/4 of throttle play anymore. Replaced all 4 spark plugs (inner ones were wrong type, left outer spark plug connector was unscrewed). Adjusted TPS (closed was 030mV instead of 150mV!)
Replaced fuel filter (what a fucking nightmare) and internal fuel line. Sucked the rust out of the tank. Fuel filter was fairly plugged with rust as well...
Broke the annoying fuel connector (female, ordered a new one).

[biesel]

Hi Martijn,
replacing the fuel filter is really a fucking nightmare, I hope my YT slideshow did help you.