California Vintage

[Tinus89]

16 hours ago, biesel said:

Hi Martijn,
changing this long u-joint and the support bearing can be a pain. And do not forget the little set screw.
Have a look at my video on YouTube.

Replacing the fuel filter is really a fucking nightmare, I hope my YT slideshow did help you.

Awesome, looking forward to the bearing and shaft install... Not. I'll properly cool the shaft and heat the bearing a bit. How did you install it, any special tools or just align and push/hammer into place?

Yes, your slideshow did help. It indeed was a nightmare and only want to celebrate if she runs properly in a few day (and I did not kink a fuel hose on installation). I did have to replace the special ribbed fuel hose with a normal one, as I pulled it apart on removing the fuel filter. This made installation in the tank even more difficult.

MAN, I love working on my V11 compared to this one. So much more easy & accessible....

Edited June 13, 2020 by Tinus89
Corrected quote

[biesel]

No special tools and absoutely no force - otherwise you will damage the bearing.

I have deleted parts of my text because I remembered it incorrectly.
Just follow the steps in my slideshow and then you are done.
My first try mounting the u-joint and the bearing was a failed attempt because I tried it the traditonal way.
I mounted the bearing in the swingarm first but this did not work.

The bearing has to be mounted on the u-joint first in this case.

 

[Lucky Phil]

10 hours ago, biesel said:

Here is my defective u-joint (at only 38.5000 Km):

I have bought my new one here:
https://hmb-guzzi.de/Universal-joint-complete-with-shaft-Cali-from-2001-on

This is the original part from Elbe for a decent price.

 

Great video of a tricky job. 

Ciao

 

[Lucky Phil]

5 hours ago, biesel said:

Hi Martijn,
replacing the fuel filter is really a fucking nightmare, I hope my YT slideshow did help you.

This generally makes it a bit easier as the hose is more compact. I also use Cobra clips which are really good and very compact. You release them easily with a jewellers screwdriver and can reuse them. You dont need the "special tool" although it helps. I made a "Special tool" for the cobra clips out of an old worn out pair of combination pliers on the bench grinder.

Their advantage is they are super neat and compact and give the connection a clean look.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-hosekit.htm

Norma Cobra Clip

Ciao

[Tinus89]

@Lucky Phil, the main issue was getting the total assembly back inside the tank. The hose clamps were actually not interfering with anything, it was more the combination of pump and filter which had to be rotated through the entry hole. Everything worked out with some cursing, but I had to use some minor force (not around the wires, but around the hose), so I will have a little bit of buttclamping until she fires up...

[biesel]

I have another hint for you ...
The struts of the front fender have different lengths, not much but a bit. If they are mounted in the wrong position (like on mine - short one towards the engine) the tire will rub a hole in the fender!
I ordered an used one at TLM which seems to have the same problem in an early state.

I discovered a lot small things when overhauling mine in the winter 2018/19. Some where caused by Luigi, others maybe by the owner or his dealer.
Treat your CalVin with more respect & love  than the previous owner.

[Tinus89]

The bearing went easily on the shaft (with heat/freezer and a good whack with a hammer on the inner race).

Getting the assembly in the rear swingarm was a whole different ball game. Eventually, with some carefully used force, she went in.

[Tinus89]

Update! Finished the "service + +++". Here comes the tale of sorting out a multi-owner, 66.000km CalVin.

In addition to a "normal" dealer full service (as it should be at least), I did the following:

- Replaced shifter+foot brake lever bushes
- Replaced driveshaft+bearing as the front u-joint had a flat spot and the support bearing was loose from the shaft)
- Adjusted throttle cable slack (it was about 1/5th of a handle turn! How do people drive like that?!)
- Replaced fuel filter (there was rust in the tank, removed it, filter was full of brown particles as well). Replaced the in-tank hose as well.
- Replaced fuel tank connector as it had partially failed
- Replaced inner spark plugs (old ones were partially worn but also of wrong type)

I must have forgotten some...
Reset the TPS at 150mV at closed (and linkage removed) throttle body (was 028mV!). Took her for a spin. When warmed up (and 80% humidity at 26deg C outside), she still pinged at WOT in the range of 2500-5500rpm.

Then I flashed Beard's map which I got through Biesel (thanks both!) and tried to get her running, but she would not idle properly. Even blew the inlet boot off once. I "Reset all auto-adjusting parameters" in Guzzidiag and raised the CO very high (80) and got her running - sort of -. I re-checked sync (a bit off), fully closed both air bleed screws, and synched again by just barely opening one air bleed. That solved the idle stumble! Lowered CO until idle started to drop off (now set at 50, still a bit high I know). Took her for a spin, same weather conditions.
Still one or two pings when going through the range at WOT between 3000 and 4000rpm, but far less and way more driveable!

I may proceed to carefully add some fuel to the map to solve the pinging there (did the same on my V11 and took full care of it) later on, but for now the bike is back at my (happy) dad.

 

When I dropped her off I picked up my V11 again, DAMN I love that bike, especially after driving a CalVin for days (and working on it).
Thanks for all the responses and help, especially Biesel!

[biesel]

The CO-Trim setting is extremely importing when the lambda probe is switched off on the 15RC - it couly have any value then.
Mine was at "-180"!
I used TunerPro and set mine to "0".
The XDF file 15RC_EEPROM_V1.01.xdf (https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/xdf/15RC_EEPROM_V1.01.zip)
worked for me.

[Tinus89]

15 hours ago, biesel said:

The CO-Trim setting is extremely importing when the lambda probe is switched off on the 15RC - it couly have any value then.
Mine was at "-180"!
I used TunerPro and set mine to "0".
The XDF file 15RC_EEPROM_V1.01.xdf (https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/xdf/15RC_EEPROM_V1.01.zip)
worked for me.

I was using GuzziDiag to set it, but it is just more of a pain when she does not want to run (and needs at least 60deg C of engine temp).

Thanks, I was using the wrong XDF and could not find the CO trim value.

[80CX100]

     I was using guzzidiag on the CalVin yesterday and I could see the CO trim in measurements and actors, it showed it was set at "0" but the system wouldn't let me change it?

     I had installed Beetle's latest map "CalVin 15RC special" which is supposed to have the lambda turned off in the map.

     In hind sight thinking about it, should I be going into guzzidiag and turning off lambda myself to enable the CO trim to be adjusted?

     Tks 

      Kelly

 

[biesel]

No you do not have to turn the lambda probe off, this is part of the map.

I think you can find info here:
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0

 

[biesel]

Buffeting and wind noise is always a topic when you have a windshield. Unfortunately the shape (radius) of the  Vintage shield seem to increase this.

My first idea was to shorten the windscreen (I bought an used one for testing). This did not work at all. Wind noise and buffeting got worse.
I cut off 11 cm at the top so the shield top was approx. on the height of my neck. Maybe this solution works for tall guys.

So the the right way to go seems to be a taller shield.
Then I added the piece I cut off to my original windshield:

I adjusted the height (+3,5 cm) so that it was still possible for me to look over the shield.
Result: Better than the original windshield.

The easiest solution is to bring the original shield in the most upright position.
I had to cut off a bit of the shield above the headlight and I had to enlarge the upper holes of the holders (12,5 instead of 11,5 mm)

With this procedure I have no buffeting up to 120 Km/h.
You still have wind noise but a bit less than before.
Next step: Homemade Laminar Lip

 

Original:

90%

80%

80% & shorter

110%

My conclusion:  110% will work best

[Chuck]

The best windshield by far (IMHO) for the Tontis is the original Califia (?) fairing. The name escapes me at the moment. When I had the Jack-All as a solo bike, I could put the big hand on 90 and smoke a cigarette if I smoked. Yes, as Pete sez, they are as ugly as a bag of farty assholes, but pretty is as pretty does.

[Lucky Phil]

On 6/19/2020 at 9:14 PM, 80CX100 said:

     I was using guzzidiag on the CalVin yesterday and I could see the CO trim in measurements and actors, it showed it was set at "0" but the system wouldn't let me change it?

     I had installed Beetle's latest map "CalVin 15RC special" which is supposed to have the lambda turned off in the map.

     In hind sight thinking about it, should I be going into guzzidiag and turning off lambda myself to enable the CO trim to be adjusted?

     Tks 

      Kelly

 

Did you clear any faults before trying to change the CO + engine over 60 deg C

Ciao