crawsue Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 I bought my 2001 Rosso Mondello last year,but work commitments kept me away from it until the autumn.When it came the battery was shagged ,so replaced with an Odyssey and disconnected the alarm .It was a bit rough a low revs so sought out someone who had some FI knowledge who got it a bit better,but it is still not right. Symptoms are 1/Starts no problem and will idle once heated up.2/Dificult to "get off the line" need to feather the clutch and blip the throttle two/three times to get going,dumping the clutch as per normal results in a stall. 3/Accelerates well but at arround 2,600 rpm is very "rough" once through this area in the rev band all is well and it pulls like a train.The throttle bodies seem to be balanced OK,are there any known issues with the ECU and who can reprogramme them ,there is no local 'Guzzi agent within 90 miles.Any advice would be very welcome,I love the concept and want to get out there on it,but it is just not a pleasure as it is at the moment.
fotoguzzi Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 no there are not issues with the ECU.. more likely you need TPS set up right along w/a new TB sync. Whats your location? some one nearby may be able to help.
crawsue Posted January 16, 2011 Author Posted January 16, 2011 no there are not issues with the ECU.. more likely you need TPS set up right along w/a new TB sync. Whats your location? some one nearby may be able to help. Hi,thanks for the response,I'm in the West Coast of Scotland,just outside Glasgow.Hoping someone local might read this and point me in the right direction.I'm not very technical...Amal Monobloc's are more my bag! + I don't have the meters or expertise in electronics to get hands on.
luhbo Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 Regardless what they say and what is common practice here there's usually never any need to readjust a TPS over its lifetime. Lifetime means at least 50.000 km. And then a worn TPS can't be adjusted, cleaned or in any other way repaired. If you don't have the tools neither the expertise to fiddle with it then even more leave this part as it is. Until you get further help from a buddy or a shop hands directly on the bike, not via the Internet, avoid the 2.500 rpm range under load, stay above 3500 or higher. That's always good advise anyway. Hubert
docc Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 . . . avoid the 2.500 rpm range under load, stay above 3500 or higher. That's always good advise anyway. Hubert The very best common sense advice right there!
mznyc Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 Hi crawsue, I was totally clueless to tuning the Guzzi and with help here ,have her running perrfect for several seasons now.So if I can do it,you can do it.There's lots of info here in the tech and how to sections.Make sure you don't have any air leaks in the exhaust or the rubber boots connected to the Tb's.They tend to crack and will mess with the A/F ratio right quick.We have several members around Glasgow,and east coast of Ireland,so hopefully some one will chime in .My girlfriend's in Kilmarnock but I may not be there till spring.If you haven't sorted it by then, we'll hook up and get her straightened out. PS If you move this to the tech section it will get more notice by the technically proficient members on the forum. Michael
docc Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 moved here for more good dancing and louder music.
Buzzard Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 My Guzzi acted just as yours does. I advanced the TPS just a bit, it helped some. Oddly, what really helped mine was to run a grounding jumper from the voltage regulator to the engine block. That should be done, regardless, but it seemed to get rid of all low rpm stumbling, snorting, and bucking.
Tom M Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 Are the intake and exhaust stock? Does the exhaust pop at all when you roll of the throttle while riding? Was the mechanic that you used familiar with FI Guzzis? I ask because Guzzi mechanic will probably have a device that plugs into the ECU that allows him to see if the FI is set up correctly, although most here make do with a volt/ohm meter.
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 My Guzzi acted just as yours does. I advanced the TPS just a bit, it helped some. Oddly, what really helped mine was to run a grounding jumper from the voltage regulator to the engine block. That should be done, regardless, but it seemed to get rid of all low rpm stumbling, snorting, and bucking. Buzzard, You are right on about the ground causing bad running, a good solid ground strap to the regulator is a must IMHO. I drilled a hole in one of the fins and ran a strap from there back to a timing cover bolt. I don't think everyone realizes that all the charging flows back through the ground. The regulator doesn't regulate the battery voltage, it actually regulates the Voltage between it's black wire and it's case so if you have a high resistance from the case to the bikes chassis whatever Voltage drops is added to the battery. e.g. if the regulator is set at 14.5 and you are loosing 1 Volt between the case and chassis the battery will be charged to 15.5 I know for a fact that if the Voltage on the battery goes too high as you accelerate the bike cuts out as the revs build up causing it to leap frog (bucking) I have a theory that bad grounding is what causes the regulators to fail, the excess Voltage causes too much current for the regulator diodes and the leads melt off, I have found this to be the case in the three I pulled apart. Another thing that causes bad low speed running is a bad contact in the ignition switch, after a few years the grease goes stiff holding the contacts apart. I haven't quite figured out how it causes the bad running since the supply to the ECU goes through relays but for sure it did on mine and also another owner I know. Bad contact between relays 4 & 5 and their bases is also also a problem, the injectors and ignition coils have an inrush of ~20 Amps, any little resistance in that circuit must play havoc. So ground your regulator, clean your ignition switch and tighten up your relay bases ready for spring. Roy Regulator Basic R1.pdf
crawsue Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 Many thanks for all the suggestions and PMs.I think that I have found a local guy with the equipment and expertise to sort it ,but I am taking copies of all these suggestions to check out as we go along.I will certainly report back with comments on all possible problems/fixes.Regards Crawford Rae.Glasgow
crawsue Posted January 21, 2011 Author Posted January 21, 2011 RESULT....I think! Mel Robinson,who was the local 'Guzzi guy before going in a different direction,came over today with the official Piagio digital gizmo.We checked out the earthing to the voltage regulator and found it to be good,but the ECU wasn't for taking any instructions...initially,that is.After a couple of hours trying to re-programme it,it suddenly decided to come out and play,the 'co levels were very low (lean) and the TPS were reading 2.8,so we richened her up to 65 on the gizmo (by stages) and worked on the TPS settings 'til we settled on 4.2.It is now much ,much better. It is -4c here today and squillions of rock salt on the roads so test runs were minimal,but it's Saturday tomorrow and hopfully I can give her a few miles and confirm the best.My man thinks that he has an ECU up his sleeve so if he can find it we will give it a trial and I will report back,but in the meantime thanks to all those who have taken the trouble to point me in the right direction....roll on Springtime!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now