cash1000 Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Ive got a 2001 Rosso Mandello V11 that wont start. It turns over but wont fire.When you turn key on it doesnt make normal wereing sound from under tank. It has ocasionally been hard to start lately. Only other problem is front brake switch doesnt activate back brake light. does any one have any ideas what problem is?
felix42o Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Ive got a 2001 Rosso Mandello V11 that wont start. It turns over but wont fire.When you turn key on it doesnt make normal wereing sound from under tank. It has ocasionally been hard to start lately. Only other problem is front brake switch doesnt activate back brake light. does any one have any ideas what problem is? If it's cranking, that should rule out the neutral safety switch and kill switch, but I'd check both anyway. Have you checked the fuse for the fuel pump for continuity? Voltage at the pump itself? Also, have you removed the battery lately? A few of us have at one time or another missed one of the many leads that attach to the battery. Worst case, the fuel pump crapped out, but probably not. I'm sure more good suggestions will follow... Good luck, and check the easy stuff first. It's usually something simple with these things.
Tom M Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Your fuel pump/injector relay may have failed. Try swapping a few and see if the fuel pump comes back. I believe the rearmost relay is for the fuel pump and injectors, but I'm not positive. If this is your problem, and maybe even if it isn't, it's a good idea to replace all of the factory relays with something more reliable from one of the two vendors below if you haven't done so already. http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm http://www.motratech.com/MGR-C20.html Lots of folks here including me use the ones from dpguzzi without any problems, but the motratech relays are supposed to be even more reliable.
gstallons Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 I can't add much for the no-start condition... The front brake lever stoplamp switch is probably bad. Price a new one and see how much it is...
fotoguzzi Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 I can't add much for the no-start condition...The front brake lever stoplamp switch is probably bad. Price a new one and see how much it is... then go to radio shack (in the US) and rumage through some drawers for a micro switch of the same size. take the one off your brake lever and bring it with. find a suitable substitute (you might have to break off a metal tang to match it up) then get a couple for about 2 bucks each! don't bother hoping the clerk will help you out, you already know more than he/she does.. they keep these micro switches in a stack of drawers for those in the know to find.
raz Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 Actually Pyro Dan sells the switches too: http://www.dpguzzi.com/switch.htm and it's five bucks including shipping. This one is waterproof and dustproof sealed. But before buying one: do you here the click sound when activating the lever? If not, it may just be a little dislocated. Just loosening the screws a little, I could adjust mine. The switch button is pushed in when the handle is NOT pulled. That's not what comes first to mind (but completely logical on a second thought). This means when you adjust the physical location of the switch, it should be pushed in just as the handle is fully out. The distinct click sound makes it an easy task.
cash1000 Posted January 9, 2009 Author Posted January 9, 2009 Your fuel pump/injector relay may have failed. Try swapping a few and see if the fuel pump comes back. I believe the rearmost relay is for the fuel pump and injectors, but I'm not positive. If this is your problem, and maybe even if it isn't, it's a good idea to replace all of the factory relays with something more reliable from one of the two vendors below if you haven't done so already.http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm http://www.motratech.com/MGR-C20.html Lots of folks here including me use the ones from dpguzzi without any problems, but the motratech relays are supposed to be even more reliable. Got local Auto Electric Supply company to test relay. They said it was ok. Got a new one anyway. Plugged old one in bike didnt start. Plugged new one in bike started first time.Go Figure.Relay cost $NZ13 (About $US6) Will now replace other relays.Are they all the same? Many thanks for your help.
cash1000 Posted January 11, 2009 Author Posted January 11, 2009 Actually Pyro Dan sells the switches too: http://www.dpguzzi.com/switch.htm and it's five bucks including shipping. This one is waterproof and dustproof sealed. But before buying one: do you here the click sound when activating the lever? If not, it may just be a little dislocated. Just loosening the screws a little, I could adjust mine. The switch button is pushed in when the handle is NOT pulled. That's not what comes first to mind (but completely logical on a second thought). This means when you adjust the physical location of the switch, it should be pushed in just as the handle is fully out. The distinct click sound makes it an easy task. It makes click sound when activating lever and switch has continuity when I test with meter (With handle pulled in) Will price new switch and check connections past switch Thanks
fotoguzzi Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 Got local Auto Electric Supply company to test relay. They said it was ok. Got a new one anyway. Plugged old one in bike didnt start. Plugged new one in bike started first time.Go Figure.Relay cost $NZ13 (About $US6) Will now replace other relays.Are they all the same? Many thanks for your help. ahh! thanks for reporting back.. were the originals Seimens?
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 30, 2011 Posted January 30, 2011 Re the Brake switch. Check also that there is a small plastic rod about the same diameter as a bic ballpoint button inside the brake lever, that may have dropped out. The switches are a standard pattern, Cherry is a brand that may be available, if you can't find one PM me. It's also possible your relay bases may be the problem, with frequent swapping the connector may have spread apart, putting a new relay in it might be making contact again, heres how you can easily tighten them up Relay Base Repair.pdf I added LEDs to my relay bases so I can tell at a glance which are made. Connected to the 87 contact the LED checks both the coil is energised and the contact is closed. Relay Base LEDs.pdf The relays are easy to test, first of all you should measure something like 100 - 120 Ohms from one small pin (85) to the other (86) (the two outside ones), if you don't see that the coils toast. you should see zero Ohms from the flat horizontal (30) to the 3rd small pin (87A) and an open circuit from 30 to the other large pin (87). When you energize the coil with 12 V (30) to (87A) becomes open while (30) to (87) becomes zero. When buying replacement relays buy all 5 pin variety.
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 Guzzi Wiring July 2010.pdf The Injectors, Ignition and Fuel pump are all powered by Relay 5. It poweres the pump from Fuse 2 see attached. Relay 5 coil is powered by Fuse 1, through relay 4 the main supply for the ECU. The bike will crank over still because the cranking voltage comes from Fuse 4 & Fuse 5 If it's not the fuses it can be the relays or relay base contacts not making properly. If you don't hear the pump priming and it still cranks I suspect F1 or F2 Note the Diode in the coil circuit of Relay 4, that protects the ECU if you accidentaly put the battery in backwards.
rossoandy Posted February 26, 2011 Posted February 26, 2011 Ive got a 2001 Rosso Mandello V11 that wont start. It turns over but wont fire.When you turn key on it doesnt make normal wereing sound from under tank. It has ocasionally been hard to start lately. Only other problem is front brake switch doesnt activate back brake light. does any one have any ideas what problem is? Would you believe I've gone out to start Rosso after several months idle....its exactly as the above post! Just checked the test points all ok so I guess I now have to take off the tank to access the pump itself to check volts there (and give it a sharp crack too)! Maybe its just stuck after winter lay up.. I've also noticed I now have the expanding tank syndrome too......fork tubes now touch tank on full lock....bah. wat next......
rossoandy Posted February 26, 2011 Posted February 26, 2011 Ive got a 2001 Rosso Mandello V11 that wont start. It turns over but wont fire.When you turn key on it doesnt make normal wereing sound from under tank. It has ocasionally been hard to start lately. Only other problem is front brake switch doesnt activate back brake light. does any one have any ideas what problem is? Would you believe I've gone out to start Rosso after several months idle....its exactly as the above post! Just checked the test points all ok so I guess I now have to take off the tank to access the pump itself to check volts there (and give it a sharp crack too)! Maybe its just stuck after winter lay up.. I've also noticed I now have the expanding tank syndrome too......fork tubes now touch tank on full lock....bah. wat next...... Took the tank off,that was a battle! I had to release the rear bodywork to get clearance at rear of tank to lift tank clear,all seems very tight there. Upon lifting tank clear I was glad I had, the tank had been chafing badly on the side panel top edges and would surely have rubbed right through in the next few thousand miles. I will have to carefully pack the tank mountings to releive this when I reassemble. I am going to start looking for the fault tomorrow, but | can say ts intermittant as the pump did run long enough when I had lifted the rear of the tank to run the motor for a a few seconds before cutting out. I have had relay issues before but I think this is asc with the wiring somewhere around the bikes headstock as I have had the starter fail to work on several occasions but it has always rectified itself by waggling the bars lock to lock. I wondering if there a connnector loose somewhere or a chafed loom perhaps.Maybe the two faults asc with each other? So to summarise, the engine was spinning over but the pump didnt prime on turning on ignition. Have to laugh though,bike meant to be a quality product..and yet the underside of tank has the early V11 lime green paint showing where the tank was held to repaint it Rosso Red! I can just imagine at the factory sales meeting...oh we need some more Rosso's as they actually been selling....hmmmm we got no more special Rosso Red tanks..we got plenty of old lime green ones, get someone to take a few to the paintshop and spray emm red!!!
docc Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 Gettting a crank when the bars are locked back and forth suggests the two "bullet connectors" for the clutch switch that lie behind the head stock along the left side of the frame. Clean, crimp, grease, and seal! These will only stop the starter from turning. The running of the pump is elsewhere - probably relays and relay bases.
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