Kiwi_Roy Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 I had a few hours to spare so I thought I would overhaul the starter motor. While I was about it I took some measurements to confirm the solenoid wiring. As my bike has done about 80,000 km (only 10,000 are mine) I thought the starter might need some new parts but the brushes still have plenty of length and the bushes are fine so I just stripped it and cleaned everything. Perhaps the previous owner replaced it at some time but he never mentioned it. Starter Circuit Rev 1.pdf Here are the parts laid out It's very difficult to remove the wire clip (on right side of photo) that holds the gear and clutch in place, and even more so to get it back under the cup washer, you might want to skip that part The main solenoid contact on my starter is sealed out of sight inside the solenoid, I decided to leave well enough alone. Once in a while the starter may fail to engage perhaps the teeth clash or something causing the contacts not to make and the 15 Amp fuse to blow, I don't think this is a big deal if it sounds like this is happening just release the start button and give it another shot. If you need to replace any of the phosphor bronze bushes a trick to lube these is to put it on your finger tip, pour in a little oil then close the top with your thumb and squeeze, you will see the oil seep out through the pores in the metal. I'm never sure if I should oil the point where the engagement gear slides along the shaft or leave it dry, I have seen them stick at times when the oil goes like chewing gum. I used a little engine oil in this case because the starter is so easy to remove. Fresh grease in the planetary gearbox sure quietens it down.
rossi46 Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 nice work as ever roy! wish I could do mine but I'm sure it would end in tears!
callison Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 As usual Roy, a first class diagram. I sort of had to laugh at where is says the diagram doesn't show the magnitude of the current passing. You'd have to printit vertically on a 44" banner if it did. I only spotted one error and that's that it is a Valeo, not Veleo starter. Minor typo. I actually took a Valeo starter for a Saturn once (they rotate the wrong direction) and re-did the endcap to swap the polarities so the starter would work on my 97 California. I had to use the old engagement gear from the previous Valeo for the Guzzi so the gear chamfer was on the correct side of the gear teeth but overall, it worked fine and never gave a lick of problems for the next four years I had the bike before selling it. The Saturn starter was about half the price of the Guzzi version and I was looking for a cheap out. I wouldn't call it the best route though, just that it can be done. If you're desparate and too onery to take no for an answer. For the life of me though, I can't figure out why Valeo chooses to build a separate style of case with the magnets reversed to change the direction when making a different endcap would be a whole bunch simpler production-wise.
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 13, 2011 Author Posted February 13, 2011 I actually took a Valeo starter for a Saturn once (they rotate the wrong direction) and re-did the endcap to swap the polarities so the starter would work on my 97 California. I had to use the old engagement gear from the previous Valeo for the Guzzi so the gear chamfer was on the correct side of the gear teeth Wow that's quite a task flipping the rotation, the slip clutch would have been wrong too, I must admit I pulled it apart far more than I needed to, I'm crazy that way. Another shot of the main components.
gstallons Posted February 13, 2011 Posted February 13, 2011 I spray white lithium spray lube in the gear reduction assy. and put a small amount of wheel bearing lube in the bushing cavities .
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 13, 2011 Author Posted February 13, 2011 I spray white lithium spray lube in the gear reduction assy. and put a small amount of wheel bearing lube in the bushing cavities . I just use plain old grease in the gearbox and motor oil in the bushings, your lithium is probably better, I don't think it's critical. BTW I did some testing this afternoon, I was curious to verify the current I calculated. I was surprised how quick the 15 amp fuse blew when I simulated a bad solenoid contact by disconnecting the main cable, My starter drew 175 amps from the battery when cranking, I think it would easily reach 200 with a fully charged battery The drawing has been revised Cheers Roy
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 13, 2011 Author Posted February 13, 2011 I only spotted one error and that's that it is a Valeo, not Veleo starter. Minor typo. Only 1, I must be improving, Actually the drawing program has spell cheque LOL I fixed that typo and probably made several more.
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 13, 2011 Author Posted February 13, 2011 And Just in case you wondered how I measures the starter current, heres how, an old electricians trick. Revised sketch High Current Meter Shunt.pdf I used 12 gauge wire, it easily passes 170 amps for a short time. If you use a different gauge your measuring points will be closer or further apart accordingly.
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