twinsrule Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 hi all, first off thank you for the forum, quite few guzzi enthusiast here, self included - even if i am new to guzzi's. my name is pete, i live in central texas and i ride a '02 tenni #113, if i may dive right in, it seems like quite a few of you are experiencing what i have today. so far she's been a great bike, with one minor problem; it doesn't seem to want to start reliably. the day i bought her a week ago it did, lol! today while out on a ride, fuse F4 blew - the manual indicates that's the starter circuit. ugh! backing up, usually in the past, pressing the start button mostly yields an audible click and after a few tries she'll kick over. today after stopping for a brief rest, it clicked once and then nothing neutral light gone, etc.. checking fuses in the fuse box revealed F4 (15A) to be blown, swapped it with F5 (headlights & instruments w/15A rating) and made it home. the spare fuse had already been used. is it possible the that the start solenoid is on the fritz? having driven old ford relics, it sure is acting like it. thanks in advance for your time. repectfully, --pete
emry Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 You are on the right track. When the secondary contacts in the solenoid get dirty and only produce a "click" the pull down circuit will draw to much current and can blow the fuse. Somewhere here is a thread with some very good diagrams.
Chuck Posted April 12, 2011 Posted April 12, 2011 hi all, first off thank you for the forum, quite few guzzi enthusiast here, self included - even if i am new to guzzi's. my name is pete, i live in central texas and i ride a '02 tenni #113, if i may dive right in, it seems like quite a few of you are experiencing what i have today. so far she's been a great bike, with one minor problem; it doesn't seem to want to start reliably. the day i bought her a week ago it did, lol! today while out on a ride, fuse F4 blew - the manual indicates that's the starter circuit. ugh! backing up, usually in the past, pressing the start button mostly yields an audible click and after a few tries she'll kick over. today after stopping for a brief rest, it clicked once and then nothing neutral light gone, etc.. checking fuses in the fuse box revealed F4 (15A) to be blown, swapped it with F5 (headlights & instruments w/15A rating) and made it home. the spare fuse had already been used. is it possible the that the start solenoid is on the fritz? having driven old ford relics, it sure is acting like it. thanks in advance for your time. repectfully, --pete Probably what you'll find is corrosion on either the relay/base (forward one) and or the fuse connectors, and or the wire that hooks to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. All these add up to a high resistance connection, and will pop the fuse. Oh, yeah.. the starter button,too. Getcha some good safe for plastic electrical cleaner.. I like Caig DeOxit.. and have at it. If that doesn't cure it, you probably have a dirty solenoid.
jrt Posted April 12, 2011 Posted April 12, 2011 Do a search for posts by 'kiwi roy', and download his schematics. Basically- clean the hard contacts and the other thing to check is that the relays are well seated into their sockets.
twinsrule Posted April 14, 2011 Author Posted April 14, 2011 much thanks gentlemen. with youur assistance and kiwi_roy's schematics, i have narrowed the problem down to the solenoid - i don't know if they can be cleaned or not. at months end i'll order a new starter/solenoid. in the meantime i can live with this quirk as long as she starts and remember to carry a palm full of spare fuses. respectfully, --pete
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Have you got this sketch Starter Circuit.pdf It sounds like a bad main contact but it could also be oxidation of the battery terminal. Air gets in between the lug and terminal, forms lead oxide which is an insulator. If this happens to the main Positive wire the fuse will pop very quickly. Pull the terminals off (negative first, back on last) and scrape the posts with a knife then apply some Vaseline. The Vaseline protects the metal from air so it can't Oxidize. Relay Base Repair.pdf It's real easy to tighten the relay base contacts, a sliver of scrap metal is all you need to get them out. Cheers Roy
twinsrule Posted April 17, 2011 Author Posted April 17, 2011 Have you got this sketch Starter Circuit.pdf It sounds like a bad main contact but it could also be oxidation of the battery terminal. Air gets in between the lug and terminal, forms lead oxide which is an insulator. If this happens to the main Positive wire the fuse will pop very quickly. Pull the terminals off (negative first, back on last) and scrape the posts with a knife then apply some Vaseline. The Vaseline protects the metal from air so it can't Oxidize. Relay Base Repair.pdf It's real easy to tighten the relay base contacts, a sliver of scrap metal is all you need to get them out. Cheers Roy thank you all for the assistance. when time permits next week, i'll tear it to it again. i have a molex tool that should work for relay and fuse spade contacts. respectfully, --pete
mznyc Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 Hi Pete, The solenoid can be cleaned.I had very similar symptoms and found the solenoid to be caked with gunk.Cleaned it and problem went away.If you do try to clean it,disconnect battery first ,but take care as the battery leads are mere inches from the ECU leads.Do not short them! Doing that caused me to replace to solenoid a few years back Will only cost you about an hour of time to clean and inspect start to finish,even if it's not the problem,worth doin. Michael http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13958&st=0
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