Ignition Switch Problems

[Kiwi_Roy]

One of my riding buddies complained that his direction indicators on his 2000 era LeMans weren't working. From the symptoms I suspected a bad contact in the ignition switch, this is what he found.

 

The wire is broken off the left hand end of the green jumper, this is what happens when wires flex at a soldered joint, they bend just where the solder ends and snap very quickly compared to a crimped joint. You can see the red wire is also getting ready to snap. All the flexing is taking place between the end of insulation and the solder.

The cable needs to be anchored so that it flexes elsewhere and it should be a gentle twisting over several inches rather than a sharp bending in one spot.

This is the second case I have seen of wires snapping at the switch.

The switch contacts should measure very low resistance

A high resistance in the switch can also cause the engine to cough and fart about.

[docc]

Cleaning the ignition switch per KiwiRoy's advice has been a real help to my "hi-mile" Sport.

 

But, what is a good point to "anchor" the harness, and can I get to it without any dis-assembly?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Cleaning the ignition switch per KiwiRoy's advice has been a real help to my "hi-mile" Sport.

 

But, what is a good point to "anchor" the harness, and can I get to it without any dis-assembly?

If theres no where handy I would make a loop in both ends of a U shaped wire and put it under the two holding screws then ty-wrap the harness to it. I went to a bike shop and the guy gave me a handfull of stainless steel pushbike spokes, great for little jobs like that

[John in Leeds]

Same problem with mine. Indicators fine on LH lock, stop on RH lock. Checked all the connectors under tank, pushed and pulled the cables and no change. Only when looking at the wiring diagram and a little input from DVH did the penny drop. Just need to search for method of steering lock removal now

[Kiwi_Roy]

Same problem with mine. Indicators fine on LH lock, stop on RH lock. Checked all the connectors under tank, pushed and pulled the cables and no change. Only when looking at the wiring diagram and a little input from DVH did the penny drop. Just need to search for method of steering lock removal now

One of your wires might be broken also.

Just two screws from underneath the steering head on mine. I thought they would be hard to get out but came easy.

The switch plugs into the loom at the front of tank I think, I just pulled mine apart while still attached to the bike.

 

You can check the contact resistance from under the seat without removing the switch.

See Note 4

Test Point Layout Aug 2011.pdf

Your bike might be slightly different but wires connected to the switch will be somewhere handy, just follow your wiring diagram.

[docc]

But, as you say, I don't see where the black wire came off of?

[nobleswood]

Docc, you ended up on kiwi Roy's page. After reading the advice here and looking closer at the picture I couldn't add to my post. There we're burn marks around one of the solder joists. KiwiRoy points out that the green black wire is attached to one of the other wires. So tomorrow I'll try that and see what turns on. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

[Jazzamoto]

I'm trying to fix an intermittent cutting out problem on my 2004 Cafe Sport so want to clean the ignition switch to see if that helps. I'm unclear on specifically what I'm supposed to clean. I've pulled the switch off the bottom of the lock cylinder. Are there contacts inside the switch and if so how do I open up the switch to get to them? Also, do I need to clean the lock cylinder?

 

PS I've read through the threads on intermittent loss of power and cutting out at very small throttle

 

Thanks guys!

 

Jazz

[docc]

The lock cylinder is not the issue. When you remove the electrical switch from below, you can take it apart and find the contacts. Clean, and "lube."  Open the switch by releasing the small retention tabs around the circumference of the housing.

 

Other issues with "intermittent loss of power":

 

> relays*

 

> battery voltage and terminal connectivity

 

> grounding

 

> sidestand switch and its under-tank connector

[Jazzamoto]

Thanks docc, as always. Thought the connectors would be exposed when I pulled the switch off. I've never been good at electrics. Can't tell you how many cable connectors I've mangled because their retention tabs didn't release for me. I can see marks on the tabs so I'm not the first guy to fiddle with this switch. Thought I'd start at the switch and if that doesn't fix the problem I'd move along to relays. I've got GEI'S but will try OMRON's. The battery is recent and the connectors are clean. Thanks for the tip on grounding and the side stand connector. I'll look at both.

 

Cheers!

 

John

[Kiwi_Roy]

Before removing the switch deaden the wiring by removing the battery Negative lead.

[Jazzamoto]

Before removing the switch deaden the wiring by removing the battery Negative lead.

Did that Roy, thanks though.

[koenner]

Hey guys, I'm having a similar issue with my '02 V11 LM - symptoms are:

 

1. difficult start, meaning starter is working for 3-5s before bike fires up. Don't have any measurements, but based on the sound of the starter motor, it sounds like it's not getting the juice it needs to turn over quickly. Bike has always had this issue; fresh battery is better, but that's not the issue - battery is good.

 

2. I added a kill switch, from battery to all the harnesses that typically connect to the negative terminal of the battery.  I did this because the bike will kill itself, drawing battery somewhere, over the period of a week or two.  I've tried tracking down the leak, but can't find it, thus the kill switch. Since adding the kill switch issue #1 has gotten worse, just slightly though, seems like the starting circuit was borderline before doing this.  I would say the switch is only making the job 5-10% harder, based on time to start. The switch is properly built and wired, 30A switch for continuous use, Japanese built, and reads 0.1ohm fully wired to the bike.

 

3. after a few failed starts, either due to the bike sitting for a while and just needing extra juice to start, or after I've done a few SHORT low RPM rides, where the charge circuit doesn't have enough chance to really replenish the battery to full charge, the bike will just "click", "click, "click, from the starter relay I assume.  This is degraded from the slow starter, so I know it is at least not an intermittent issue with the starter.

 

4. after reading a few of these pages, I decided to start measuring.  The first thing I got to was the starter button - it's reading 36-40M Ohm when fully pressed in.  That's just across the starter button.  Assuming that's not right, right?!  Assuming that is the case, anyone know where to buy that switch?  I am just looking for the switch for 2 reasons, I don't want to pull the harness, just to replace that switch, and two, the "switch" module, which includes the plastic, and harness, is around $160.

 

5. the run/kill toggle is good, completely open, and 0.1 Ohm closed.

 

6. rectifier/regulator is brand new, and so are the relays

 

7. any pointers on how to check the ignition switch (the one with the key)?

[gstallons]

Hmmmm.explain # 1 a little more . Does the starting motor spin for 3-5 seconds ? 

The battery must be fully charged and in perfect condition for the bike to start / run properly .  

Remove your innovation and start over .

[Kiwi_Roy]

Koenner, have you checked the main battery ground, it should be on a gearbox bolt. A V11 will crank over slowly if the main ground is loose and may catch fire.

Measure the battery Voltage Positive to chassis while cranking then compare it to the Negative to chassis again while cranking (make sure the meter negative is on the chassis NOT battery negative

(the test negative to chassis is testing the battery ground and should be just a fraction of a Volt)

 

You can check the switch contact resistance from under the seat without removing the switch.

 Look back up the thread for my sketch "Test Point Layout"

 

Is your new regulator a Ducati Energy or an after market one , make and model?  the direct connected type draw a little current with the key Off but not enough to flatten the battery in a week or two.

I put a switch in mine then forgot to turn it back On resulting in a flat battery

 

You really should get rid of the extra switch and solve the leakage problem

To find the electrical leakage connect a 12V LED or small incandescent lamp in series with the positive battery leads then pull each fuse and relay in turn until the light goes Off. A 12V LED is far more sensitive for this it only needs a milliamp to light and is safe from overcurrent, 

Trying to do this with a digital multimeter will result in tears, the meter internal fuse will blow, then you will have zero leakage and a useless milliamp range.