geddo Posted May 8, 2011 Author Posted May 8, 2011 So, I realize one hose is simply a drain in the event you overfill the tank during fueling directing the overflow onto the tarmac (certainly un-good to drop that onto the top of your motor). I believe that's the big hole at eight o'clock on the left side under your gas cap. The other side allows air flow back into the tank while keeping the vapors from the atmosphere through the carbon cannisters and preventing "tip-over" spill with the nefarious little valve. I, uh, "inspected" my 2000 Sport's vapor recovery system. The canisters and plumbing weighed five pounds and there is twenty feet of half inch fuel line. No, really: twenty feet. I am sorry to report that my Sport has been on its side two or three times yet, even without the "tip-over valve," no fuel spilled. Both hoses will "Y" nicely together and route out the bottom. They are a (difficult female dog) to re-attach when replacing the tank, so I can see hourly employees giving it up. Yes that is how I understand it as well, though the two vents are internal to the tank they are external to the fuel bladder. Since the fuel cap seals these two internal chambers off from each other the cap itself must play a part in the vapor system... don't know that for sure but haydn pointed out some vents in the cap itself so it would make sense. As far as the 'Y' goes that is my second option if putting the rollover on correctly doesn't work, the extra weight and hose length aren't of too much concern to me as long as the system works. As far as the 'hourly employees' giving up on replacing the bike in proper fashion, I guess I am not that forgiving. At the rate they charge for their professional services I would expect a better quality of work and attention to detail, and once confronted with documented proof that they screwed up they should have been more responsive and willing to fix the problem (I sent the owner the pictures and video I posted here via e-mail at his request and they have refused to return my calls since). Live and learn I guess...
geddo Posted May 14, 2011 Author Posted May 14, 2011 After trying to work out a way to route the lines properly for the tipover valve and make sure that it wouldn't be likely come loose, I decided the thing just wasn't that important so it sits on my garage bench. I did put a 1/4" brass nipple to connect the lines together and did a quick test to blow and suck air thru it, which though not easy was possible. I then reconnected everything and ran the bike for a few minutes, after shutting off the bike the leak returned Well at least I am back to where I started before brininging it into the shop, the leak is going under the bike and not over my cylinder any longer. There was a bit of pressure release when I opened the fuel cap and the leak stopped as soon as I did so it does appear that it is still not breathing right. I checked the cap and I can pass air through it just fine so I guess next step is to remove the cannister and get it completely out of the picture. Still doesn't make any sense for the fuel to leak out of the overflow, the vent area to that tube is completely dry. Must be internal but there is no apparent crack inside the tank.
HaydnR Posted May 15, 2011 Posted May 15, 2011 Is it possible that with the fitting of your camera mount(?) that the fuel cap has been fitted slightly out of alignment causing the seal to the cap vent to block when closed. I just tried it out on mine by blocking the vent hole with a piece of latex and run the bike for a minute, and even in the cold scottish climate and a near on empty fuel tank slight pressure had begun to build when I opened the cap.
geddo Posted May 15, 2011 Author Posted May 15, 2011 Is it possible that with the fitting of your camera mount(?) that the fuel cap has been fitted slightly out of alignment causing the seal to the cap vent to block when closed. I just tried it out on mine by blocking the vent hole with a piece of latex and run the bike for a minute, and even in the cold scottish climate and a near on empty fuel tank slight pressure had begun to build when I opened the cap. I suppose that is possible though the pressure issue started long before I put that power mount on. I will take it off and see if that helps any, but you may be onto something with the seal to the cap blocking it when closed. I did take the cap apart to see if there was anything blocking and it was able to pass air but its possible when closed it is blocked somehow. Thanks!
geddo Posted May 16, 2011 Author Posted May 16, 2011 Just disconnected the line to the canister and ran it for a couple minutes, no leak and no pressure build up. Going to have to try a longer run to be sure but so far it looks promising. Cap looks to be seating correctly with the power mount on, so it is looking like the canister may be part of the problem.
Skeeve Posted May 16, 2011 Posted May 16, 2011 Cap looks to be seating correctly with the power mount on, so it is looking like the canister may be part of the problem. The preexisting problem may have filled the canister w/ fuel [i presume this is the charcoal canister for emissions control we're discussing here.] That's been known to happen on other brands as well: overfill the tank, the overflow gets trapped by the canister, idles rough for ages until the charcoal is eventually evaporated enough to once again do its job. A lot of folks have been known to remove the canister permanent-like: I'm not that concerned about the minimal extra wt. savings myself & prefer to save the local environment, but your situation [colder climate, no stagnant air basins like SoCal] may be different...
geddo Posted May 16, 2011 Author Posted May 16, 2011 Cap looks to be seating correctly with the power mount on, so it is looking like the canister may be part of the problem. The preexisting problem may have filled the canister w/ fuel [i presume this is the charcoal canister for emissions control we're discussing here.] That's been known to happen on other brands as well: overfill the tank, the overflow gets trapped by the canister, idles rough for ages until the charcoal is eventually evaporated enough to once again do its job. A lot of folks have been known to remove the canister permanent-like: I'm not that concerned about the minimal extra wt. savings myself & prefer to save the local environment, but your situation [colder climate, no stagnant air basins like SoCal] may be different... There is a definite gurgle when I blow through the line connected to the can so apparently there is fluid in there, I wasn't sure if that was by design or not. Living in CA gives me pause in removing anything smog related, its only a matter of time before we are forced to get smog checks on bikes... but I would rather risk that then have it leak gas (which would fail smog check anyways) so it looks like canister must go. I'll probably leave it there and just disconnect for now unless I can find an easy way to remove and reinstall.
geddo Posted May 22, 2011 Author Posted May 22, 2011 Well I couldn't figure out a way to get the hoses disconnected without removing the canister from the bike first, there are two hoses connected to it that are a pain to get off. So now that I had to take it off to disconnect the hoses, at the bottom of the bike where I wanted the hoses to outlet, I am not going to take the time to mount it back. Just took a quick test ride up through the hills and the bike ran just fine, parked it in the garage and waited... no leak. So I popped the gas cap and no pressure released, hopefully this means it is done. Thanks guys for your help!
geddo Posted May 22, 2011 Author Posted May 22, 2011 Glad you got it sorted. Thanks HaydnR appreciate all the help
V11CSGoozer Posted June 27, 2011 Posted June 27, 2011 Still no leaks? From what I read, you teed both lines together and they exit under the bike near where the charcoal canister was originally located? I also have an'04 CS that I'm chasing gremlins on. it seems mine is more of a fuel starvation problem. I'm just checking all the venting issues I may have.
geddo Posted June 30, 2011 Author Posted June 30, 2011 Still no leaks? From what I read, you teed both lines together and they exit under the bike near where the charcoal canister was originally located? I also have an'04 CS that I'm chasing gremlins on. it seems mine is more of a fuel starvation problem. I'm just checking all the venting issues I may have. I still have the original overfill line routed the way it was, no change. I just removed the small black plastic device on the vent line just under the tank and directly connected the line together, then removed the charcoal cannister and just allowed the line to exit the bottom of the bike (vent and overfill are not tee'd together, still separate). I imagine it would work either way but I chose to keep them seperate so I can put the bike back to stock if needed. Hope that helps. Cheers, Geddo
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