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Posted

Need to replace the gasket on the sump flange. Question for you kind people is; do I only need to drop the oil filter support and disconnect the two oil lines before I unbolt the flange or do more horrors lurk beneath ? and what are the bolts (I cannot make it out from the manual)? and the torque settings ? Anything I need to be wary about on re-assembly bar a sore neck ? Thank you for your time.

Posted

Hi,

 

I put a light coat of oil on the gasket. I do not remove the hose. The is plenty of room to swing the pan for a nice cleaning. Other there is much debate, I add a $1.99 hose clamp on the filter to prevent any movement. Not sure on the torque setting, I just use a light "feel". They do not need too much but I am sure someone will give you the exact amount.

 

Regards,

Bob

Posted

It's been a couple of years since I've done it, but I don't remember any real drama associated with changing the pan gaskets.

I will also reiterate my affection with 'hylomar' sealant. The stuff is non-hardening, durable and a light coating does wonders as a sealant. I use it on the sump gaskets and on any gasket I don't take off too much (any gasket except the valve covers).

The bolts should be about 1 kg*m or 7 ft*lbs, so not much- the same as your valve covers. That's assuming I remember them as the same 6 mm size!

 

Edit: Bob makes a good suggestion re:hose clamp on the oil filter.

Posted

It's been a couple of years since I've done it, but I don't remember any real drama associated with changing the pan gaskets.

I will also reiterate my affection with 'hylomar' sealant. The stuff is non-hardening, durable and a light coating does wonders as a sealant. I use it on the sump gaskets and on any gasket I don't take off too much (any gasket except the valve covers).

The bolts should be about 1 kg*m or 7 ft*lbs, so not much- the same as your valve covers. That's assuming I remember them as the same 6 mm size!

 

Edit: Bob makes a good suggestion re:hose clamp on the oil filter.

 

Thanks for the replies, to be clear I am referring to the flange, i.e., the 'skirt' that the pan attaches to (bolts are internal) rather than the gasket on the pan itself.

Posted

I'm with jrt, Hylomar is "the stuff". Conservative amounts on both sides. No silicone sealant! Tighten the filter SNUG! and a hose clamp where if it starts to loosen it ill hit something before it gets very far.

Posted

Disconnect the oil cooler hosesand the return pipe. Drop the pan, undo the 14 bolts around the flange and the four that hold on the filter/thermostat munt. Pull Filter/thermo munt back and down off the stubbs on the flange and the drop flange.

 

Pete

Posted

Disconnect the oil cooler hosesand the return pipe. Drop the pan, undo the 14 bolts around the flange and the four that hold on the filter/thermostat munt. Pull Filter/thermo munt back and down off the stubbs on the flange and the drop flange.

 

Pete

 

Cheers Pete

Posted

... Pull Filter/thermo munt back and down off the stubbs on the flange and the drop flange...

 

Isn't that the bit where you have to take care of little o-rings?

 

Hubert

Posted

... Pull Filter/thermo munt back and down off the stubbs on the flange and the drop flange...

 

Isn't that the bit where you have to take care of little o-rings?

 

Hubert

 

There are two o-rings on the spigots the thermostat/filter mount slides on to. They're Viton and I've yet to see some that weren't supple and re-useable. Check 'em obviously but unless they have become brittle or look damaged I'd say send 'em round again. HAving said that they are hardly expensive so if you want to cover all bases? sure, replace 'em.

 

pete

Posted

Job done. Took about three hours all in. The O rings looked fine. Thanks all.

 

My back is killing me now ! Must get a bike lift.

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