Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions

[VA Sean]

Having not heard anything from the dealer who has my Coppa, I just called them.

The good news is - they ordered the parts the day I dropped off the bike (May 31). The bad news is - they have no idea when the parts will arrive, and they say no tracking number is given to the dealer for tracking purposes.

 

Is this SOP?

 

If so, what is the "usual" travel time from Mandello (or wherever they'd order bearings, axles and brackets), to the US?

[Baldini]

I'm sorry, but I'm not following the different terms being used here....

... lube the needle bearing on the drive side with bearing grease....

 

That's 30 & 31 in this diagram. Washer talked about is 33.

[Baldini]

I just measured the distance between registers and had a steel spacer made to match....

(1)...What do you mean when you say "between registers"?

(2)...Is it happening because of the spacer in the wheel between the two bearings?...

 

(1) I presume "between registers" refers to between the faces that the bearings sit up against in the hub.

 

(2) Yes this spacer, part no 6 in diagram.

[Tom M]

Having not heard anything from the dealer who has my Coppa, I just called them.

The good news is - they ordered the parts the day I dropped off the bike (May 31). The bad news is - they have no idea when the parts will arrive, and they say no tracking number is given to the dealer for tracking purposes.

 

Is this SOP?

 

If so, what is the "usual" travel time from Mandello (or wherever they'd order bearings, axles and brackets), to the US?

 

Hi Sean,

If you only need rear wheel bearings there are lots of places to get them quicker and for a lot less money than from Moto Guzzi. Lots of guys get them at auto parts stores or a local bearing supplier. I posted the info on where I got mine in this thread:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15756&st=0&p=170387&hl=Mcmaster&fromsearch=1entry170387

 

The original poster said he ordered his from MG Cycle. If your shop won't source some locally thay could always go that route.

 

PS I've used the Pit Posse bearing tool that I mentioned in that thread a few times now and it works great. Much quicker and easier than using a punch.

[rebelpacket]

(1) I presume "between registers" refers to between the faces that the bearings sit up against in the hub.

 

(2) Yes this spacer, part no 6 in diagram.

 

Perfect! Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me Baldini. I completely understand the scope of the failure now.

 

Sadly, I already drifted my bearings in, and as I don't have a spare set, I'm going to wait until this one gets mucky until I replace it and remeasure the spacer for machining. Might as well get some miles on this set until it starts to slop out.

 

Thanks!

[VA Sean]

Having not heard anything from the dealer who has my Coppa, I just called them.

The good news is - they ordered the parts the day I dropped off the bike (May 31). The bad news is - they have no idea when the parts will arrive, and they say no tracking number is given to the dealer for tracking purposes.

 

Is this SOP?

 

If so, what is the "usual" travel time from Mandello (or wherever they'd order bearings, axles and brackets), to the US?

 

Hi Sean,

If you only need rear wheel bearings there are lots of places to get them quicker and for a lot less money than from Moto Guzzi. Lots of guys get them at auto parts stores or a local bearing supplier. I posted the info on where I got mine in this thread:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15756&st=0&p=170387&hl=Mcmaster&fromsearch=1entry170387

 

The original poster said he ordered his from MG Cycle. If your shop won't source some locally thay could always go that route.

 

PS I've used the Pit Posse bearing tool that I mentioned in that thread a few times now and it works great. Much quicker and easier than using a punch.

Thanks, Tom.

I did find it odd that they ordered from the Motherland, because I had already seen that they were available from MG, and I'm sure Harpers has them too - just not listed on their site.

if they try to fleece me on price, i will definitely direct them to MG, where the bearings are listed with their prices. I've actually already written down the part # and the price so I can see what the difference is. If it is negligible, so be it. If it is radical - then I'll have no qualms bringing it to their attention.

It seems quite silly to me - especially since buying them locally (well, US, anyway) would radically cut down on delivery time, shipping costs, etc. Customer's always right - until he isn't.

[Baldini]

...I'm going to wait until this one gets mucky until I replace it and remeasure the spacer for machining. Might as well get some miles on this set until it starts to slop out...

 

It may be that the spacer is OK & bearings failed for some other reason.

But, if the spacer is too short & the bearing inner/outer races are consequently misaligned when axle is tightened - don't plan on a long trip!

 

Good luck!

 

KB

[felix42o]

FWIW, I got mine through McMaster-Carr...a quick forum search will turn up the part numbers. I think I paid $62USD delivered for both front and rear.

 

-edit-

 

From my notes:

 

Rear L&R # 6204-2RS (Dim: 20 x 47 x14)

Front L # 6205-2RS (Dim: 25 x 52 x 15)

Front R # 6304-2RS (Dim: 20 x 52 x 15)

[rossoandy]

2003 V11 Sport

 

Sunny day, on a weekend ritual ride with my girlfriend. 80 miles to our favorite pie place, following the Gallatin river towards Yellowstone park. On the way back, I started to feel a slight rhythmic vibration from the rear end. I slow down a bit, flip over the visor, try to isolate any sounds. Pull over and check the driveshaft for any slop in the joints or the connection. Decide to limp it home, very. slowly.

 

Get about five blocks from home, when the vibration turns really bad. Pull over immediately, and start checking everything again. Thats when I spot this:

 

 

Bearing race has completely collapsed. We walk the five blocks home, get the truck and park it at my shop.

 

New bearings in without a problem, but I'm concerned about why it happened with only 8,000 miles on the odometer. I've never seen a wheel bearing (especially on a street bike) fail with so few miles. I'm worried (looking at how the bearing is preloaded from the rear caliper mount. The area contacting the bearing appears to be greater than the inside race, and possibly contacting the outer seal.

 

Has anyone else had anything like this happen on their V11 sport?

 

Also, does anyone know where you can buy a center stand for these bikes nowadays? I find myself having to do ridiculous things to lift and support the rear of this bike:

 

 

I have experienced this myself en route to Mandello some yrs ago.....my money is on the spacer,,,just a fraction too short will cause the brgs to pre load when U tighten the wheel spindle...There is also a thin washer asc with the rear spindle and bevel box,is it in place?

Not asc with the rear wheel bearings but prudent to check the bearing where the drive shaft enters the bevel box, these can fail too. Grasp the drive shaft near the rear u/j, has it got lift in it? Should be next to zero here.If there is play your bevel box will wear and fail,take it apart and replace the bearing first!

Another check on the prop u/js themselves is prudent, these do wear out too!

Guzzi do not do separate u/js but they are available cheaply from a motor parts supplier (you will have to remove one and use as pattern).

[The Monkey]

(1) I presume "between registers" refers to between the faces that the bearings sit up against in the hub.

 

(2) Yes this spacer, part no 6 in diagram.

 

Perfect! Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me Baldini. I completely understand the scope of the failure now.

 

Sadly, I already drifted my bearings in, and as I don't have a spare set, I'm going to wait until this one gets mucky until I replace it and remeasure the spacer for machining. Might as well get some miles on this set until it starts to slop out.

 

Thanks!

 

Thank you for clarifying Baldini, additionally when negotiating the front bearing set the spacer the bearing rides on (port side) is also made of inferior material, check it as it may need building up then turning to bring it up to the hardness required. How I came up with the measurement regarding material to use as a spacer is merely based upon experience. I chose steel as that was compliant with the rest of the metal in the "stack" aluminum would be twice the guage and bulky. Stainless is too soft, better to parkarize the steel. There is a great thread somewhere dealing with recommendation regarding crush and the axle spacer, look it up. Oh yeah pop out that bearing and measure space between registers and make damn good and sure the internal races aren't being squeezed due to a spacer too short!

[gstallons]

Why didn't I think of this !!!!

I was at a buddy's shop today & he was explaining how he set-up front and rear wheel bearings. He told me he assembled the spacer, bearings,etc... After that he took a piece of all-thread the right size & length and used it for his new axle.Then you use SAE flat washers ( because they are narrow) and nuts, you assemble and torque the nuts to 50' lbs. If the bearings spin freely everything is o.k... If not it is time to do something. Either a new spacer or tapping e.g. seating the wheel bearings into the hub for 0 lateral pressure because roller bearings cannot tolerate this.

When installing bearings you want to make sure the bearing is seated in the hub and against the spacer. That is why you are doing this to make sure NOTHING happens on the road !

[stefano]

Why didn't I think of this !!!!

I was at a buddy's shop today & he was explaining how he set-up front and rear wheel bearings. He told me he assembled the spacer, bearings,etc... After that he took a piece of all-thread the right size & length and used it for his new axle.Then you use SAE flat washers ( because they are narrow) and nuts, you assemble and torque the nuts to 50' lbs. If the bearings spin freely everything is o.k... If not it is time to do something. Either a new spacer or tapping e.g. seating the wheel bearings into the hub for 0 lateral pressure because roller bearings cannot tolerate this.

When installing bearings you want to make sure the bearing is seated in the hub and against the spacer. That is why you are doing this to make sure NOTHING happens on the road !

makes perfect sense....i like it