First time dyno run

[pasotibbs]

I often have guys wanting to rush off to the dyno as soon as they get their MyECU. I try and discourage it.

There's a couple of things I try and point out.

1) Don't go to the dyno until you're familiar with the way MyECU works.

2) Go through a couple of map iterations of your own first.

2) Don't expect the dyno operator to do it for you. Its rare that they would have any interest in learning anything different. Even if they did don't expect them to pick it in a few hours.

 

68C, my recommendation would be to spend the money on an LC1 and not worry about the dyno yet if at all.

 

If you do go to a dyno soon I recommend to keep it simple and short. Don't worry about the inertial types. Just get a couple of runs from low revs to red line at a few throttle values, 1/4 1/2 3/4 full when running open loop and then go home with the graphs and make the changes offline.

 

 

pasotibbs, unless we've been corresponding via email, it was 11 months ago that you seemed to be set on the right foot with closed loop and the Optimiser. I would have expected you to have your map nailed by now or at least posted something about the issues you were having.

Cliff

I thought everything was going ok , running closed loop had improved the map and the bike was running better.

The idea of the Dyno run was to hopefully get to the areas of map I'd missed but it just went from bad to worse!

The optimiser and closed loop should have worked but I'll put that down to user error, my targets being wrong or the LC1 settings being incorrect (which I'll check first) as he held MON for 5 seconds but the AFR didn't change (I should probably have stuck with this and altered the targets to see what happened but decided to go open loop and adjust manually.

The optimiser issue was weird,but as I run closed loop I've never tried altering the mixture anywhere other than idle so couldn't find the solution, it would appear to work for a couple of cells but then turning the variable resistor would change the value on the screen but the AFR stayed the same on the Dyno's readout.( I had the same issue when I gave up with the optimiser and used the laptop instead,I will have to investigate further but it appears that my laptop has taken a dislike to the controller software as it closes the program when I try to save a map to file which was the last straw (worked fine on another laptop when I got home and of course I had the choice to take either that morning...if only!!).

I'll let you know if I find out what happened but hopefully just checking the LC1 is working ok and changing some targets may put me back on track ?

 

Dave

[Cliff]

I think I can see some issues already.

 

Running closed loop will not improve the map. Only the Optimiser in Autotune will do that.

 

If you are running closed loop, the potentiometer will have no effect. Closed loop means follow the o2 sensor to the in spite of what other things may be saying. In open loop the potentiometer will allow corrections.

[68C]

Thankyou Cliff,

 

I had to do a web search to find out what an LC1 is, I now know it is a wide band sensor controller. Many thanks, a new trail to follow.

 

I am off on holiday for two weeks with my family to the Pyrenees, in our motorhome - not the Guzzi!

 

Please don't be offended if I don't reply to any posts for a while.

[pasotibbs]

I think I can see some issues already.

 

Running closed loop will not improve the map. Only the Optimiser in Autotune will do that.

 

If you are running closed loop, the potentiometer will have no effect. Closed loop means follow the o2 sensor to the in spite of what other things may be saying. In open loop the potentiometer will allow corrections.

Sorry I used the wrong terms, we used the autotune as that is what I normally do but he said nothing was changing (maybe because it was already on target ?)so I changed the ECU switch to open loop and tried to get him to adjust the AFR manually but he couldn't get that to work properly so I took over the opimiser controls and tried but although the value changed the AFR stayed the same.

As I couldn't work out what was happening I switched to the laptop which I now know that had issues of its own so was doomed to failure !!

If I'd taken the other laptop the day may have been saved but I didn't.

 

[Buzzard]

One thing I would be trying on a dyno run is various settings of the throttle position sensor (TPS). It is easy to mark the home position where the sensor sits in the throttle body, then move it ever so slightly clockwise, then counter clockwise, and see what the results are. I have done this with my bike, without the aid of a dyno, and have had good results with performance. The best result is that I got rid of the sneezes off idle, and removed the flat spot mid range. I would really like to see the results on a dyno. I ended up moving my TPS just a tiny bit clockwise as you look down on it. This was after setting it to the recommended millivolts, after setting the throttle bodies, and so on. Setting the TPS is just another tuning variable you can play with.