2or4strokes Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 Hi Just some info for you guys who needs a power commander or an ecu change, the ecu from cliff jeffries is good stuff, I fitted it on my bike and after tuning it the sports 1100i really flies, No more hiccups, good throttle response at low rpms2 to 3k , strong midrange and fantastic top end, I seriously have not idea the sports can be that powerful. throttle response and power is linear and the whole bike is just transformed . Also idles extremely well at 1100 rpm of therabouts. Great ecu... Hey I'm not his marketing agent , just wanted you guys to know a good product when there is one.
ScuRoo Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 I struggle to get things I glue to stick - so DIY soldering electrical thingymejigs, just thinking about it, scares the living crap outta me! If only Kiwi Roy adopted me! Roughly how much having it ready made?
2or4strokes Posted July 31, 2011 Author Posted July 31, 2011 I struggle to get things I glue to stick - so DIY soldering electrical thingymejigs, just thinking about it, scares the living crap outta me! If only Kiwi Roy adopted me! Roughly how much having it ready made? If I remember correctly abouy 650 Aussie dollars.
Stinga Posted August 28, 2012 Posted August 28, 2012 Do ya reckon you could upload and attach your map, because I am having a few problems trying to get mine right. If I use the map that Cliff supplies it still has he stumbles at about 2500 rpm and has a lot of backfire when throttling off.
Mad Farquhar Posted August 28, 2012 Posted August 28, 2012 Do ya reckon you could upload and attach your map, because I am having a few problems trying to get mine right. If I use the map that Cliff supplies it still has he stumbles at about 2500 rpm and has a lot of backfire when throttling off. There are a number of maps to chose from on Cliffs forum - tried any of them? I cobbled mine from Razs map and am now betwixt fettling clutch / remapping for carbon noisy straight through cans / playing with his android Optimiser app. It's all driving me toward large quantities of Old Pulteney!
Guzzirider Posted August 28, 2012 Posted August 28, 2012 I must admit to reading that forum and not having a f*cking clue what everyone is on about- some very clever home fiddlers out there! I bought a used Jeffries ECU from Jaap for my 1225 Daytona, and will run the new motor in on the current map, but there is a possibility that a dyno guy in the Midlands will be conversant with the Jeffries by the time I am ready for a custom map- will let you know how it goes. Cheers Guy
Stinga Posted August 29, 2012 Posted August 29, 2012 Cheers Mad Farquhar, Got your map in at the moment but when I set up the TPS, idle speed at 1200 and bodies balanced as per the manual using the stock ECU I then put in the MyECU and I get get a reading of 54 for the throttle position. So I configure the the ECU for 54 load your map start it and the thing idles at about 2000 rpm so screw out the idle screw to get it to idle at 1200 and then I get a TPS reading of 37. Bike runs hard and with no hick-ups between 2000 and 3000 rpm's and with only a bit of a miss at about 6500pm but it drinks fuel at 15kms/Lt @ 130kph ( stock ECU 18.5 kms/Lt )and during cold starts with full choke on I still have to use some throttle to get it running. Will try to lean out whole map and maybe go back to 54 on the TPS nd adjust the idle speed as per Raz's way. Raz's map works OK and at 54 TPS but has some fluffiness/jerkiness around at 120 kph or 2700 rpm with a steady throttle and misses heaps above 6000 rpm and wont even reach 8000rpm but starts real good with choke, maybe this map needs to richened up. With Cliffs map I can only get it to run using TPS at 67 but some times it idles @ 1200 then jump to 1500 rpm then it will die to about 800 rpm or stall and when I take it for a ride the thing sill has the same jerkiness at 2500 as the stock ECU and when throttling off there is heaps backfiring through the exhausts. I know that the ECU is not a Plug-and-play but there is some tuning to be done but I don't have the patients or skills to f$&k around with it and if I want to get it really right I have to spend another $500 on an Optimiser and Lambda probe or try a get someone willing with a Dyno to tune it, but that could cost another $500 to $1000. Now don't get me wrong this thing is a great piece of kit with it's complete tunability over all the spectrum's but for non computer nerds like me it's a bit perplexing but I will persist.
Mad Farquhar Posted August 29, 2012 Posted August 29, 2012 The Raz map is a good one - well it is for me. The 2 things he taught me (in this case) were a) set v/vs to "Raceco" (0.2mm in, 0.25mm oot) and set up the inj duration at idle "pretty rich" - I think it's somewhere in the region of 3500 µs. This seems to make the engine fall away due to richness (afr well down in the 12's) but it does stop the hiccups and stalling at lights for example. The tendency is to lean out to get the revs up but resist it if you can. My m/c now has non standard cans but that map version is definitely based around individual K&Ns (without the airbox) so that might explain the thirst. 1100 sports run better with a thirst - like a good collie dog - IMHO. For a non-nerd you seem to have it pretty well sorted! I haven't even looked at mpg over bits of the rpm but overall I get about 10.5 miles per ltr (16.8 kms/ltr?). With my original ecu I can't remember getting much more than 48 mpg on varying roads - what ever that is in new money. I must have the typical old "oilman" mentality. Book is 22kms/ltr. I take it you have the ecu and the doofers / doohinkies to talk to a laptop or something running the ecu control prog to see the maps and make changes? Gav
Stinga Posted August 29, 2012 Posted August 29, 2012 Good on ya Gav, Yep got the serial interface so my lappy can strike up a dialogue with da ECU, hows that for nerdy talk, also got the valve lash set at 0.15in/0.20ex . So what I might do is set me TPS back up to 54 then use the slider in the idle cell to richen it up to slow da revs down. Then maybe reduce the map 10% between 3k to 5k so to improve the mileage but not starve it in the high revs and leave it alone between 2k and 3k so as not to reintroduce the hick-ups again. Raz suggested his map because I have the air box with a K&N filter with 3 X 1" hole to-wards the rear of the lid and a set of Staintune pipes and cans, like his. I think his geological position compared to mine might be the reason that mine runs lean up in the high rpm's. Just one other thing did you notice a 300 rpm reduction on the taco compared to the stock ECU, mine with the stock ECU is sitting on 4k @ 120 kph but with MyECU it's doin 120 kph @ 3700 rpm, this also the same at idle. Steve
Mad Farquhar Posted August 29, 2012 Posted August 29, 2012 Just one other thing did you notice a 300 rpm reduction on the taco compared to the stock ECU, mine with the stock ECU is sitting on 4k @ 120 kph but with MyECU it's doin 120 kph @ 3700 rpm, this also the same at idle. Can't say I did /do. I removed the original ecu from the box and pins to reuse for the myECU and never went back. It's in a jiffy bag in the filing cabinet for posterity. Not sure how Razs location would affect the ecu - the sensors (temp & baro) should accommodate most differences unless you have some peculiar Ozzy atmospherics or sumfink . I did have to frig my map to get my baro to read the local airfield QNH but not sure just how picky the ecu is to d.p.. Enjoy.
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