SMDL Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Hi, folks. I have removed my rear wheel in order to service the cush drive today, and even managed to get the button head fasteners out without stripping them. I am at the point of wanting to remove the plate, but wonder if it is necessary to remove the wheel bearing? The manual seems to indicate this, but I have seen some pictures in various posts that seem to show the plate removed with the bearing still in place. Bearings look good, and bike has about 10K miles. If the bearing must be removed, does anyone have any suggestions as to the best methodology? Still learning... Sorry I'd this is a duplicate question. I have been searching for some time and haven't found a clear answer yet. Thanks, Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Hi Shaun, I used a cutting wheel on one side to slice through the bearing housing,and tapped out the other side with a wood dowel from the inside.5 minutes tops.Mine went at 16k and many report having them go under 20k so would be worth doing while you got the wheel off.Another Guzzi "good enough" engineering achievement was that the spacer between the bearings was believed to be the incorrect size,Doh ! Michael http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13294&st=0&p=144327&hl=mznyc&fromsearch=1entry144327 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13407&st=0&p=144892&hl=mznyc&fromsearch=1entry144892 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16117&st=0&p=173706&hl=mznyc&fromsearch=1entry173706 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 ...I am at the point of wanting to remove the plate, but wonder if it is necessary to remove the wheel bearing? ... don't remove the bearings, 's no need for. hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMDL Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Thanks for the feedback. The plate came off quite easily using a couple of screwdrivers! Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMDL Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Hi Shaun, I used a cutting wheel on one side to slice through the bearing housing,and tapped out the other side with a wood dowel from the inside.5 minutes tops.Mine went at 16k and many report having them go under 20k so would be worth doing while you got the wheel off.Another Guzzi "good enough" engineering achievement was that the spacer between the bearings was believed to be the incorrect size,Doh ! Michael http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13294&st=0&p=144327&hl=mznyc&fromsearch=1entry144327 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13407&st=0&p=144892&hl=mznyc&fromsearch=1entry144892 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16117&st=0&p=173706&hl=mznyc&fromsearch=1entry173706 Thanks, Michael. I do plan to replace the bearings, but need to order them in first. I noticed that you had McMaster Carr part numbers for both the bearings and the grease gun fitting in the first thread you listed. The numbers for the bearings still seem to be good, but the grease gun fitting is not found. Do you have any information from the one you bought that could assist me in finding the right item? Thanks for any assistance. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMDL Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Hi, folks. I am happy to report that the cush drive service was conducted without issue, and that the result is... fantastic! Basically, it is clear that the cush was cushless, as I could roll the bike back and forth while in gear with the engine off, and all I would get is a solid "thunk!" at each limit of travel. Now, when the normal limit of travel is reached, I can continue pushing and there is an additional amount of soft, rubbery travel that brings the bike to a soft, nicely-damped stop. This just wasn't there before. The test drive was ever better than expected as the bike so much smoother in on/off throttle transitions. Very nice! Thanks again for the help! Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hi, folks. I am happy to report that the cush drive service was conducted without issue, and that the result is... fantastic! Basically, it is clear that the cush was cushless, as I could roll the bike back and forth while in gear with the engine off, and all I would get is a solid "thunk!" at each limit of travel. Now, when the normal limit of travel is reached, I can continue pushing and there is an additional amount of soft, rubbery travel that brings the bike to a soft, nicely-damped stop. This just wasn't there before. The test drive was ever better than expected as the bike so much smoother in on/off throttle transitions. Very nice! Thanks again for the help! Shaun I did mine a couple of weeks ago, I saw a post here recommending drilling holes in the rubbers to give more squishiness and leaving half out. I drilled a couple of 3/8 holes in mine but left them all in. It seems to improve the ride for sure. Update SMDL = I used a wood bit with the sharp points at the edge BTW I read a really good book by a marine engineer named Lamb, he points out that rubber cannot be compressed, it can only be distorted but takes up exactly the same volume. At least now the wedges have some space to squish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMDL Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hi, folks. I am happy to report that the cush drive service was conducted without issue, and that the result is... fantastic! Basically, it is clear that the cush was cushless, as I could roll the bike back and forth while in gear with the engine off, and all I would get is a solid "thunk!" at each limit of travel. Now, when the normal limit of travel is reached, I can continue pushing and there is an additional amount of soft, rubbery travel that brings the bike to a soft, nicely-damped stop. This just wasn't there before. The test drive was ever better than expected as the bike so much smoother in on/off throttle transitions. Very nice! Thanks again for the help! Shaun I did mine a couple of weeks ago, I saw a post here recommending drilling holes in the rubbers to give more squishiness and leaving half out. I drilled a couple of 3/8 holes in mine but left them all in. It seems to improve the ride for sure. Yes, I basically followed Greg Field's recommendations, including drilling the rubbers. Those instructions recommend that a hollow bit be used to core holes, but I used a standard drill bit and found that it worked just fine. Greg also recommends only putting three sets of wedges in, but I put them all back in there and was very happy with the result. Thanks, Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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