Enzo Posted September 13, 2011 Posted September 13, 2011 I've never had this problem before. The bike has been running fine for a while, and then it won't start. Lately, it won't start at all. I checked all the fuses, relays and wires. I checked the gas-related problems. Then I realized that I am not getting any spark at all to the the plugs. I've never dealt with this before. Does this mean a bad coil? And if so, how do I find out or get to it?????? Is this just something that goes bad over time? My plug wires seem to be in good shape and my plugs are brand new. Thanks.
Enzo Posted September 13, 2011 Author Posted September 13, 2011 check your kill switch.. I think you might be onto something. When I first put my bike back together after 3 years, the kill switch/starter button was sticking. I sprayed it with WD/40. I haven't thought of it since, but maybe I'll take the switch apart tomorrow and look at it.
Enzo Posted September 14, 2011 Author Posted September 14, 2011 Tonight I checked the start button/kill switich and don't see any problem. I then took off the side stand sensor. Still no spark to the plugs. There was no change when I put in a different timing sensor. Now I've taken off the right side coil. Why? I don't know; I'm out of ideas. Maybe I have a bad ECU? Who knows. I don't know what else to check. All the wires I see look OK, but I can't see into all the connections. I don't know enough about electrics to know why both plugs are not getting spark. I'm hoping some Guzzi genius will give me a simple thing to check.........
raz Posted September 17, 2011 Posted September 17, 2011 Does the fuel pump prime for a second when you turn ignition on? The pump is on same fuse and same relay as the coils (and injectors). BTW check the fuses very carefully: I had a hairline crack in my ECU fuse, it REALLY looked OK but it was not. The giveaway was when I wiggled the fuse, the pump intermittently primed.
gstallons Posted September 17, 2011 Posted September 17, 2011 Yes, the pump does prime for 2 seconds and stops. Then when you start it the pump operates.
fotoguzzi Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 have you checked the wires and connections just behind the steering head along the frame, under the tank? there is a known bad spot in the wiring connections in that area.
Enzo Posted September 19, 2011 Author Posted September 19, 2011 have you checked the wires and connections just behind the steering head along the frame, under the tank? there is a known bad spot in the wiring connections in that area. The fuel pump acts normally. All the electrical stuff works except spark to the plugs. The relays have been changed out and the fuses look good. I replaced a borrowed timing sensor, but I still haven't tried a new flywheel sensor or an oil temp sensor. I understand that any failure here can stop the whole deal. I'm sure both coils can't go out at the same time so I'm not pursuing that. It acts like it is not registering the crank moving around and triggering the spark. The wires (what I can see) look OK. No obvious problems. And, I've even borrowed a different ECU and tried it. Nothing. Same problem. I am going to try the different sensors. I don't know what else to look for.
luhbo Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 The coils are switched against ground. Positive is the Red/Black wire. Check whether it's alive at the coils as long as the pump runs. Also listen to the fuel pump when you press the starter button. It comes on for a short while when you turn the key to on, then it should come on again as soon as the engine starts turning (you pressing the starter). Can you hear the pump come on again? If not it's probably the phase/timing sensor or any of its parts (cables, connectors etc.) The relais should be ok, because the ecu obviously is able to initially trigger the pump. Hubert You have no flywheel sensor on a V11, by the way...
GuzziYang Posted September 28, 2011 Posted September 28, 2011 My bike just start to have the same problem, after a short ride, stop the engine it won't start no more. New battery and fuse and relay seem to working fine. When I push the start switch all I got is a click noise, the starter motor won't even crank. If I push the start switch too long the 15 amp relay fuse (between battery fuse and headlight fuse) will blow. Not sure where to start to check but I like to know where is the ground wire connected to?
GuzziYang Posted September 30, 2011 Posted September 30, 2011 Well, after four days my bike started again and nothing has change. Since my bike stop starting over the last weekend, I just try to start it everyday to see if new symptoms or changes. Everyday is the same and today for no other reason it decided to come back from protest. I'm happy it started but I'm afraid to ride it too far as it might not start again for no reason. I did a search online and this is problem is not uncommon. Guzzi tech got a article post that might be the cause but I still can't figure out how to implement the solution from the poster. http://forum.guzzitech.com/forum/160/4908.html
GuzziMoto Posted September 30, 2011 Posted September 30, 2011 That is an issue that plagues modern CARC Guzzi's. While you might have a similar problem the electrics on both bikes are pretty different. The CARC bikes have an ECU that checks for voltage at the moment of starting and if it does not see enough it does not allow starting. When this happens all you get is a quiet "click". The motor does not turn over or anything else, just that click.
luhbo Posted September 30, 2011 Posted September 30, 2011 ... Not sure where to start to check ... Check and clean the solenoid. Hubert
GuzziYang Posted September 30, 2011 Posted September 30, 2011 ... Not sure where to start to check ... Check and clean the solenoid. Hubert Hi Hubert, Can you tell me where the solenoid is located? I see a similar round shape next to the relay banks but I think its the flasher relay as its too light. thanks
luhbo Posted October 1, 2011 Posted October 1, 2011 Check out this: Valeo Repair An easy procedure to test the solenoid is some careful knocking on the solenoid while you have the starter knob pressed. Don't knock on the starter motor itself, resp. the mag housing, as these parts are delicate enough and do not need any further stressing. The solenoid itself is hard to damage, but its assembly obviously has some tendency to become sticky from decade to decade Mine is a 2000 and last week it was time for this the second time (lost the mags 4 or 5 years ago) Hubert
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now