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Posted
It's worth mentioning that there are two different types of gaskets used depending on age of the bike. I don't know if they're interchangable (I would think so), but worth asking the question to be sure.

 

As far as I know they are interchangable, the older one is paper and the newer is metal. The metal one is not reusable AT ALL. If you use that and, after properly torquing the timing chest, realise the little chain lying on your garage floor should have been in there, you need to get a new gasket. The paper one can probably be reused lots of times but personally I'd change it anyway (except for that chain incident) because it's a PITA to replace it.

Posted

After 2 gaskets blew out under warranty I removed it and used Hylomar instead, hasn't leaked since (8years or so) get a new seal for the alternator while you are at it, it can be very easy to nick and is rather delicate. Knock the old seal out enough so that it is easy to remove once the cover is reinstalled. Then install the new seal.

Posted

The best thing to use is from Loctite. It is a red anaerobic gasket maker that replaces the gasket . I don't remember the part #. It is sold through NAPA and other parts stores.

Posted

The plot thickens. I went to unplug the alternator wires and found an electrical taped mass of wires shoved up above the regulator. Peeling the tape away revealed that the wires were bent in half before taping, and have now all melted together. I wonder if this might be part of my charging & starting troubles.

 

V11-AlternatorWires.jpg

Posted

I don't care for bullet connectors. If you can, either replace them with insulated spade connectors or just use butt connectors. The butt connectors are kind of permanent; you will have to cut / install new every time you disconnect them.

When you ar eworking on this look at the integrity of the copper wire. If it has been HOT you will have to get/go/trace back in the wiring harness to find good wire to connect to.

Looking at your picture I don't see anything that looks fried or melted.

Posted

I don't care much for bullet connectors either, but that's what I ended up using, since that was what was there already.

 

After removing all the bolts for the timing cover, I am unable to remove it due to a vestigial bracket that's welded to the frame and blocking the way. :huh2:

 

I guess I'll just retorque all the bolts and hope for the best. If it leaks again, I'll make an appointment to take it to GT Motors in Lansing, MI.

Posted

I don't care much for bullet connectors either, but that's what I ended up using, since that was what was there already.

 

After removing all the bolts for the timing cover, I am unable to remove it due to a vestigial bracket that's welded to the frame and blocking the way. :huh2:

 

I guess I'll just retorque all the bolts and hope for the best. If it leaks again, I'll make an appointment to take it to GT Motors in Lansing, MI.

 

I would have a look at the "bracket, welded to the frame" what is it doing there? and, should you maybe cut it off?

If it is performing any function, what is it. Otherwise get it off. And repair it properly.

Posted

Any time this type of question arises, the first thought is that it's the timing cover gasket leak.

The description in the text didn't quite seem like, but the pictures posted certainly do look like that's what it is.

 

While a new gasket is the correct type of repair, I'd still recommend the simple application of sealant as an alternative and effective repair.

 

It was mentioned back in this thread and various others since: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2024&st=0

 

In this picture, the blue shows where the sealant is applied, after careful cleaning. I then covered it with black silicone and after some road miles, it becomes fairly invisible.

 

post-5-1076679170.jpg

 

Now that's worth a bodge point! :luigi:

:grin:

Posted

much like mine busted bullet connectors after riding 5 hours in rain. Changed tham to AMP Superseal ones and not issue. Even new owner of my V11 says it is charging perfectly!

 

 

The AMP Superseal connectors look like the ones used by General Motors. They are called Weatherpac connectors.... Probably the best thing ever made to connct wiring harnesses together.

Posted

much like mine busted bullet connectors after riding 5 hours in rain. Changed tham to AMP Superseal ones and not issue. Even new owner of my V11 says it is charging perfectly!

 

 

The AMP Superseal connectors look like the ones used by General Motors. They are called Weatherpac connectors.... Probably the best thing ever made to connct wiring harnesses together.

 

this type of seal-connectors are used parallely even on V11! I just dont get the point why the used for horn wire and for such key wiring like charging is :huh2::angry: Must been some important football match... or just regular Friday...

Posted

I don't care much for bullet connectors either, but that's what I ended up using, since that was what was there already.

 

After removing all the bolts for the timing cover, I am unable to remove it due to a vestigial bracket that's welded to the frame and blocking the way. :huh2:

 

I guess I'll just retorque all the bolts and hope for the best. If it leaks again, I'll make an appointment to take it to GT Motors in Lansing, MI.

 

I would have a look at the "bracket, welded to the frame" what is it doing there? and, should you maybe cut it off?

If it is performing any function, what is it. Otherwise get it off. And repair it properly.

 

The only reason I can see for it being there is to (maybe) keep the oil cooler off of the alternator cover if the oil cooler were to come loose. It occupies the space just above the alternator cover, has 2 holes and an arc cutout that follows the contour of the alternator cover. The holes show no evidence of ever having been used for a bolt. Maybe it serves a purpose on the Sport models with no fairing? I will post a photo later for reference.

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