docc Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 As Hubert says, "All at once!" Better to drain the sump into a CLEAN container, then remove the manhole cover to assess the filter and its gasket. True also what Hubert says about getting the filter tightened correctly through the access hole. This requires a good fitting filter wrench and 1 and 1/8 turns beyond the gasket contact. The warning light must stop. Did you check that the idle is high enough?
Bello Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 I have not. But the light doesn't go out at 1000 rpms on the tach. It takes more like 1500 rpms showing, maybe higher. Plus the light is bright red, not flickering, so I'm looking for another solution. I don't think the problem is caused by low idle. I'll drain the oil (into a clean container, as you said) this weekend, and make sure the filter is tight. Then we'll see what's next.
Bello Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 OK, I've got another question: how many posts does it take before I'm not labeled a rookie? I've been riding for 40 some years, and it's been a long time since I was a rookie.
docc Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 Haha! Good news! Drop down from your username at the top right. Open your profile. Click on "Edit my Profile" and scroll down to "Profile Information." In the "Member Title" : be who you want to be! "Guidare bene!" (Easier to fix than a flickering oil light!)
AndyH Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 Yeah, good point! I use a hose clamp to stop the filter undoing and lots of owners and some workshops do. If that's what the PO did, you're not going to get the filter loose through the manhole. Best to get the sump off to be sure.
Bello Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 Well, in a word, EUREKA! I put off checking on the oil filter as a cause of the low oil pressure light until this weekend. But Sunday afternoon I fired it up and did a 35 mile warmup ride. About 20 miles in I got slowed by a town, and sure enough, the oil pressure light came on at any rev under 2000. Back to the garage. I drained the sump and pulled off the manhole cover to get to the filter. I pulled the filter out, and the oil ring looked OK on the filter, although it had pulled a little away from the filter when I removed it from the motor. But as I tilted the filter to drain out the oil inside, there was a little splash in the oil pan that I was catching the oil in. I fished around in there, and found this. That's the oil ring from the previous filter, and you see that it got a little chewed when I tightened the new filter down (up actually) against it. The result was no seal, so reduced oil pressure when hot at low rpms. It's good to have fixed this for no money, instead of what I might have spent if it hadn't done the trick.
jwh20 Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 Wow! Glad you found that out. Hoping that there is no damage to your engine! I saw this on WildGuzzi the other day: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=69730.0 I'm thinking it might be worthwhile to check for any metal particles in the sump. Nothing special about MG engines with respect to oil flow or lack thereof. Just about any engine will fail in a moment without good oil flow.
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