Engine Removal/Clutch Replacement How To

[pete roper]

Quick pic of those three different hub types.

 

 

Pete

[mznyc]

Not working for me Pete.

[HaydnR]

Quick pic of those three different hub types.

 

 

Pete

 

 

Tuono and stuff 004 by convertpervert, on Flickr

 

Tuono and stuff 003 by convertpervert, on Flickr

[mznyc]

Thanks Pete-Haydn

Mine does look like the Scura hub but till I get it off hard to tell.

Here's the set that came off the bike and RAM aftermarket on the bottom.

[mznyc]

Before I bodge it up,what is the correct procedure to remove/install the rear bearing seal?

[mznyc]

Makin progress

Hub tool should be in next week so cant put motor back in till I replace it.

I dont have an internal leaks,but Micha sent a rear seal for motor and O-ring and seal for front of tranny.Should I not fix what's not broken? Rear seals already out,but wonder if I should change tranny's.Thoughts?

 

Cleaned everything I could get access to.Frame,engine,swingarm,all wires and connectors.Checked brake pads,replaced rears,bleed both front and back.Removed pads and pins and greased pistons and pins.

Replaced fuel filter,and hoses to it.New breather hose on order.

Swingarm and drive shaft go back in tomorrow.Painted a couple small rust spots.Greased,all U-joints,splines and bearings.Swingarm ,rear drive and rear wheel bearings all good.

Finally installing Edge guard that been sitting on the shelf for a couple years,....

[jrt]

That Scura input hub looks a lot like the RAM input hub I have in my Eldo.

 

Michael, after you put on the 'edge guard' (you'll love it, btw), put a rectangular piece of rubber in that overlaps the guard and the inner fender piece above it- it protects the shock absorber eye from overspray. There are two bolt holes that make it very easy- you'll see.

[jrt]

Before I bodge it up,what is the correct procedure to remove/install the rear bearing seal?

 

Assuming you have the old one out- lightly lubricate the shaft of the main bearing. Carefully put the lip of the new bearing over the shaft so it rides properly. Fit it up to the tunnel and then use a drift to seat the seal properly. Use a large socket or something that fits on the edge of the seal, and maybe use an extension, so you can see that you are driving it in straight. That's probably not all that helpful...

[mznyc]

That Scura input hub looks a lot like the RAM input hub I have in my Eldo.

 

Michael, after you put on the 'edge guard' (you'll love it, btw), put a rectangular piece of rubber in that overlaps the guard and the inner fender piece above it- it protects the shock absorber eye from overspray. There are two bolt holes that make it very easy- you'll see.

My pressure/spring plate did have R-A-M stamped on it.But as Pete noted friction could have been changed.The new RAM's friction plate from the single plate I bought from Richard looks just like the one that came out.I'll hopefully have hub off later in the week so I can compare to PR's pics.

Edge sent the shock absorber cover dont know if that does what your describing.I'll post pics.I should have left them off as I want to bleed the clutch again once the motors back in.Maybe pull the swingarm as it was easy to get in and I havent done the spacing adjustment yet.

 

Before I bodge it up,what is the correct procedure to remove/install the rear bearing seal?

 

Assuming you have the old one out- lightly lubricate the shaft of the main bearing. Carefully put the lip of the new bearing over the shaft so it rides properly. Fit it up to the tunnel and then use a drift to seat the seal properly. Use a large socket or something that fits on the edge of the seal, and maybe use an extension, so you can see that you are driving it in straight. That's probably not all that helpful...

I have a fork seal driver that fits perfectly from an old VFR it drove it in fine till the last millimeter but think oil should help it.I do have some flat drifts too.

Thanks

Michael

[jrt]

I just bled the clutch on my bike, which has an edge guard. No need to drop the rear swing arm- a small wrench fits just fine.

 

Here's a weird bit of trivia-you need three different sizes of wenches (12,11,10mm) to bleed the front brakes, the clutch and rear brake.

[mznyc]

OK starting to put stuff back together hopefully have the motor in by Monday.

 

Im planning on Blue Locktiteing all bolts that should be,flywheel,starter gear,engine mounts(one was loose),etc,,,..

Is there any bolts/parts on the bike that would benefit by using Red.Also putting anti-seize on spark plugs,any where else that I should use this?

I'll be installing a Mistral X-over and wondering if exhaust assembly paste is worth using?

 

Thanks

Michael

[gstallons]

You use red Loctite when you plan on NEVER removing that fastener again.

[Baldini]

I never used red loctite or exhaust assembly paste on a rebuild but I use copper grease pretty liberally on most (external) fasteners & on the exhaust joints. Not saying that's right, but that's what I do & it's never given me a problem.

 

KB

[mznyc]

I never used red loctite or exhaust assembly paste on a rebuild but I use copper grease pretty liberally on most (external) fasteners & on the exhaust joints. Not saying that's right, but that's what I do & it's never given me a problem.

 

KB

Keith are you sayin you use copper grease on the threads?

[mznyc]

Well I ran into a problem.

The new(used 08 Griso) hub Reboot sent me is not the same ID.Internal splines are much smaller and will not match input shaft to the transmission.

Thoughts before I contact Peter? x

Thanks