fotoguzzi Posted October 13, 2012 Posted October 13, 2012 I got out a screwdriver and rotated the flywheel (?) that seems like it might be hard.. I take off the alternator cover and turn motor w/a (32?)mm socket. CCW when looked at from front. Normal rotation is CW.. right? duh! yep, just testing.. CW is right.
LowRyter Posted October 16, 2012 Posted October 16, 2012 so a 1 1/4 would be just a little too small to fit? oh no matter, my largest is 1 1/16. empties the hot water tank on the RV.
felix42o Posted October 16, 2012 Posted October 16, 2012 so a 1 1/4 would be just a little too small to fit? oh no matter, my largest is 1 1/16. empties the hot water tank on the RV. If you're talking about rotating the engine to TDC, I just put the bike in like 3rd gear and turn the back wheel. Not too bad with the plugs out. I guess if you didn't have a rear wheel stand that wouldn't work so well.
Chuck Posted October 16, 2012 Posted October 16, 2012 so a 1 1/4 would be just a little too small to fit? oh no matter, my largest is 1 1/16. empties the hot water tank on the RV. Ya know.. you can actually buy metric sockets. Just sayin. 32's a big un, though.. seems like the one on the alternator is more like a 17 or 19. Can't remember, I'm old.. At any rate, when I need a big one that I don't have, I just break down and cough cough buy it.
LowRyter Posted October 16, 2012 Posted October 16, 2012 so a 1 1/4 would be just a little too small to fit? oh no matter, my largest is 1 1/16. empties the hot water tank on the RV. If you're talking about rotating the engine to TDC, I just put the bike in like 3rd gear and turn the back wheel. Not too bad with the plugs out. I guess if you didn't have a rear wheel stand that wouldn't work so well. well that's what I do on the EV, but it has a center stand. I am sure bigg ass socket is cheaper than a shop stand.....I was looking through my tool box when I posted. Chuck knows I am a tightwad......BTW, the green bike just pulled 16k miles.
felix42o Posted October 17, 2012 Posted October 17, 2012 That makes sense. Not that I'd really suggest it to anyone (and for fear of labeling myself as a little shady in maintenance practice) but for several years I was too cheap for a rear wheel stand. I used two jack stands to support the rear on the big nuts at the bottom of each pork chop any time I had to have the wheel off.
FastFred Posted May 16, 2013 Posted May 16, 2013 What are you guys using for clearances? The bike manual say 0.10 and 0.15 mm. I have seen others recommend 0.15 and 0.20. I'd rather run a little loose than too tight. Your thoughts/opinions?
LowRyter Posted May 17, 2013 Posted May 17, 2013 I bought the big socket and set the valves at .006 and .004 INCHES like I do on the EV. I set them tight but it still clatters more than it did before I set them. just put 20k miles on it. I love riding it. also used the big ass socket on the EV when I set the valves on that on. better than spinning that rear wheel and looking at the slot machine (make me dizzy)
Tom M Posted May 20, 2013 Posted May 20, 2013 Since I didn't see it mentioned in this thread I'd like to point out that it's easy to adjust the valve lash without pulling the alternator cover or looking for the marks on the flywheel as long as you can raise the rear wheel. Here's what I do. Please let me know if you see a flaw in this method... - Raise the rear wheel with the factory work stand. - Remove both spark plugs and both rocker covers. - Roll the rear wheel forward by hand while shifting up to 6th gear. - Turn the engine over with the rear wheel until I see the intake valve on the right cylinder open then close. As soon as it closes that piston will be on the compression stroke. - Put a probe in that cylinder and slowly bump the rear wheel forward while letting the probe slip through your fingers as the piston ascends. When the piston goes past TDC you will feel the piston break contact with the probe. Bump the rear wheel slightly backward to find TDC. - Check and adjust lash on that cylinder as needed then run the rear wheel through a few rotations and recheck at TDC on the compression stroke. I use .006" (.15mm) intake/.008" (.20mm) exhaust. - Repeat for left side. (I checked my probe method against using a dial indicator for finding TDC and I found that I could easily come within .005" of true TDC with the probe, which is plenty close enough for this job.) Hope this helps someone, Tom 1
AndyH Posted May 23, 2013 Posted May 23, 2013 I ended up doing pretty much the same as couldn't find both the marks on the flywheel, only the S (?!) - it was clearly knocking off time at the factory . Then put a dob of paint where the D should be.
p6x Posted Sunday at 08:29 PM Posted Sunday at 08:29 PM In Guzziology, the author explains why one should not use the recommended valve clearance of admission 0.10 mm and 0.15 mm in the US. According to the author, the tighter clearances were Guzzi's attempt to minimize oxides of N2 for emission compliance in the US. The author recommends to always add 0.02 inch to the nominal valve clearances; that would be 0.5 mm and would verify what @Admin Jaap said above in this thread, 11 years ago... The reason why I brought up this topic, is that when I gave my V11 for chest gasket exchange, Davey told me he had checked my valve clearances, and found them too tight. I was surprised since I had scrupulously followed the manual and perfectly set mine for 0.1 and 0.15 mm respectively. 1
gstallons Posted Monday at 12:25 PM Posted Monday at 12:25 PM (edited) First of all , if I am reading you correctly , you are adding a inch measurement= 0.02" to metric numbers= 0.1 mm. I "think" I set mine on 0.008" in. and 0.010"in. aka 0.20mm and 0.25mm. Noisy= yeah. I didn't buy a sewing machine and you didn't either . Edited Monday at 12:27 PM by gstallons
p6x Posted Monday at 01:11 PM Posted Monday at 01:11 PM 32 minutes ago, gstallons said: you are adding a inch measurement= 0.02" Not me; Dave Richardson, the author of Guzziology. Believe me, I wish everybody used the metric system. Interestingly, he quotes Guzzi's recommendation in metric units, but convert them into imperial for his readers. Incidentally, while in France I purchased a metric set of feeler gauges from Facom, to stop using my current imperial set. Having worked in the oilfield for 35 years, I have quickly learned that units of measurements are not consistent accross the board. Even with European based Oil Companies, that should all use the standard metric units, there were variations. Since we had to comply to what the client wanted to work with, part of the job was to convert acquisition raw data into client's approved final units. Still today, you have to juggle with this. If you happen to go astray to Europe, you will find out that speed is in km/h, and gas is sold in liters. In Italy, when I was there, oil was sold by weight... just like in Russia with Vodka. Most of us never really face those incongruities since we spend most of our time in our native environment.
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