V11 LeMans Valve Clearances

[po18guy]

17 hours ago, p6x said:

In Guzziology, the author explains why one should not use the recommended valve clearance of admission 0.10 mm and 0.15 mm in the US.

According to the author, the tighter clearances were Guzzi's attempt to minimize oxides of N2 for emission compliance in the US.

The author recommends to always add 0.02 inch to the nominal valve clearances; that would be 0.5 mm and would verify what @Admin Jaap said above in this thread, 11 years ago...

The reason why I brought up this topic, is that when I gave my V11 for chest gasket exchange, Davey told me he had checked my valve clearances, and found them too tight. I was surprised since I had scrupulously followed the manual and perfectly set mine for 0.1 and 0.15 mm respectively.

Both tight may indicate that the engine was not as cold as when you set them.

[gstallons]

It is easy to look up a conversion table to verify what needs to be done. I had to.  I have a Starrett electronic caliper to do measurement conversion this small .   No problem on my socket sets , I'm on it ! 

 With that being said , I'd go w/the clearance I mentioned above. And I have std. and metric feeler gauges .  I remember the first time I saw .25 on a piston crown it took someone explaining , that is also 0.010".

p.s. don't take everything literally. As you can see print can be deceiving .  

[audiomick]

7 hours ago, po18guy said:

Both tight may indicate that the engine was not as cold as when you set them.

Correct, but...

Somewhere, maybe here, I read about how someone had observed how much time it took to get the motor cold enough to be qualified as "stone cold" related specifically to valve clearance.

He established, if I recall correctly, that most of the change happened in the first 45 minutes after turning off the motor. From then on until a day later, the difference was negligible.

So that might be an issue, but seems unlikely to me.

[gstallons]

Some manufacturers give a "hot" and a "cold" lash figure . 

[Tomchri]

From the tank of my 93 1000S.
Cheers Tom.

Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

[docc]

 

[Pressureangle]

3 hours ago, Tomchri said:

From the tank of my 93 1000S.
Cheers Tom.

Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk
 

Why are the intakes set with commas and the exhausts with periods? 

[p6x]

10 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Why are the intakes set with commas and the exhausts with periods? 

Because in Europe, the decimal separator is the comma. The thousands marker is the period. Remember it when you write your checks.... lol...

Whoever made the label was merely copying instructions which may not have been clearly written or with periods looking like commas.

What I find interesting in the picture, is that we have a tolerance +/- 0.03 and a temperature reference, even if standard conditions should be the norm: 0 deg C, 32 deg F.

If we wanted to be perfect, we would have to convert the lash figures to whatever ambient temperature we have when doing the job.

[Pressureangle]

1 hour ago, p6x said:

Because in Europe, the decimal separator is the comma. The thousands marker is the period. Remember it when you write your checks.... lol...

Whoever made the label was merely copying instructions which may not have been clearly written or with periods looking like commas.

What I find interesting in the picture, is that we have a tolerance +/- 0.03 and a temperature reference, even if standard conditions should be the norm: 0 deg C, 32 deg F.

If we wanted to be perfect, we would have to convert the lash figures to whatever ambient temperature we have when doing the job.

Another epic failure of my humor.

[gstallons]

2 hours ago, p6x said:

Because in Europe, the decimal separator is the comma. The thousands marker is the period. Remember it when you write your checks.... lol...

Whoever made the label was merely copying instructions which may not have been clearly written or with periods looking like commas.

What I find interesting in the picture, is that we have a tolerance +/- 0.03 and a temperature reference, even if standard conditions should be the norm: 0 deg C, 32 deg F.

If we wanted to be perfect, we would have to convert the lash figures to whatever ambient temperature we have when doing the job.

With all due respect , when you find the perfect formula to use ambient temperature , engine temperature / valve clearance #s please post them .  I "think" you are overthinking this adjustment.

[p6x]

34 minutes ago, gstallons said:

With all due respect , when you find the perfect formula to use ambient temperature , engine temperature / valve clearance #s please post them .  I "think" you are overthinking this adjustment.

You are correct!

I forgot to take into consideration the mechanical wear. That should come to play too....

[gstallons]

Well , the wear is the reason for adjustments

[audiomick]

Yes, but don't forget that wear can dish the gap between valve and follower and falsify the reading!

(comma, period...)

 

I've read lots of posts in various forums about valve clearance. The above, about taking care that you get a good measurement, about the benefits of leaving the clearance at the long end of the tolerance, whatever.

We're talking about highly-tuned tractor motors here. And a standard set of feeler gauges goes in 0.05 mm steps (0,05 in Europe... ).

I've come to the conclusion that it is sufficient if the target-clearance gauge goes through, and the next larger one doesn't.

Edited Tuesday at 10:27 PM by audiomick

[audiomick]

@Pressureangle

20 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Why are the intakes set with commas and the exhausts with periods? 

 

8 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Another epic failure of my humor.

If you can see a pun hiding in there, I have an inkling that a conversation with you might be really good fun.

[p6x]

3 hours ago, gstallons said:

Well , the wear is the reason for adjustments

In Guzziology, the author points out that wear is not equally distributed over the surface, and makes the proper adjustment more challenging.