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rear wheel bearing removal


Paulsmartv11

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Need to replace wheel bearing on rear wheel disk side. do i need to remove the circlip? before knocking out old bearing?

 

Paul

I'm no expert but I think you are refering to a circlip that hold the bearing housing in there, if so no, even if you do you wouldn't be able to budge that part. How do I know, I tried.

You will get a better answer when the other guys wake up :rolleyes:

Cheers

Roy

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Need to replace wheel bearing on rear wheel disk side. do i need to remove the circlip? before knocking out old bearing?

 

Paul

I'm no expert but I think you are refering to a circlip that hold the bearing housing in there, if so no, even if you do you wouldn't be able to budge that part. How do I know, I tried.

You will get a better answer when the other guys wake up :rolleyes:

Cheers

Roy

 

Hi Paul,

lip is there to retain the cush drive, which on most V11s is probably seized. Don't worry, there is a ramp and ball shock absorber in the gearbox which is more than sufficient.

 

To your wheel bearing: In theory, these are just tapped out using a rod which is a loose fit in the bearing.You have to cant it to one side to get the edge of the rod to touch the inner ring of the bearing you want to remove. Therefore this can be a tricky job, and you should make sure that the end of the rod that contacts the bearing is square to the axis of the rod with sharp ie not burred over edges. I use M10 or M12 studding. This process is not helped by the wheel spacer which gets in the way a lot but is deliberately designed to move over to one side to allow you to do this. In practise once you get a purchase on the bearing, a few shap taps with a hammer not a rubber mallet, will knock it out.

 

The disc side is often much sighter than the drive side, so I usually knock the drive side out which is quite easy, take the spacer out, and then you have good access to the disc side to put a big fat rod on it, and whack it out. Bearings are freely available, about £5 each from any supplier, and if one has gone, the other won't be far behind, so replace both.

 

Another technique is to put a suitably sized Rawlbolt (expanding bolt for concrete) in the bearing inner and tighten up til the claws are behind the bearing innner race. It's much easier then to bring a rod to bear on the bolt and whack it out.

 

Yet another tip: When the bearing spacer is out, do two things. Measure the spacer length with a vernier, and compare that to the distance between the lip of the seating of the removed bearing and the inner race of the bearing in place. At most there should be around 0.1mm difference. MG are notorious for using undersize spacers; this can be corrected by buying bearing shims of the correct inside diameter and packing the spacer with these during reassembly.

 

Another tip is to grind a small (say 4mm) V shaped notch in each end of the spacer before reassembly. When you have to change the bearings again, it will be much easier to get a rod to the inner ring of the bearing.

 

Bearing life: With u/size spacers, typically 10k miles or less. With correct spacing, 30K miles or more.

 

sorry to rattle on, hope it helps.

 

Guzz

the circ

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The Cush Drive on mine works fine.

I drilled some large holes in the rubber wedges as someone here suggested.

I recently pulled apart an 84 california, it's cush drive was still ok also

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I and others have cut through them with a dremel and out they come right quick.If your going to do one side would be a good idea to do the other one at the same time,if you weren't already planning on doing that.

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Another technique is to put a suitably sized Rawlbolt (expanding bolt for concrete) in the bearing inner and tighten up til the claws are behind the bearing innner race. It's much easier then to bring a rod to bear on the bolt and whack it out.

 

Hey, Guzz, not exactly on topic, but have you tried a Rawlbolt to get out those s***ing swing arm bearings too: talk about tight! Think it might work or is there a limit?

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Need to replace wheel bearing on rear wheel disk side. do i need to remove the circlip? before knocking out old bearing?

 

Paul

 

 

Do replace both of them.

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  • 1 year later...

I got mine out to replace, at least that was a lot easier than the stupid swingarm bearings.  Are they the same on the left and right side? or should they be?

 

2000 v11 sport (green) :)

 

Mine are labeled:

 

SKF 6204-2RSH on the drive side

SKF 6204-2RS1 on the brake disk side

 

Anyone have the part number for my year/model?

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No, these are the SKF part #s . You can go to a bearing sales company or a NAPA type store and get them.

And they don't have to be an exact match, the 6204 is the dimension, the -2RSH and the -2RSL describes the seals.

The same bearing is good for both sides, they are also very common in other bikes.

 

http://www.skf.com/binary/12-36038/6270%20EN_tcm_12-36038.pdf

 

The seal options are confusing (page 3 & 4) it also mentions RS1 as per your post, I thought it might have been a mistake on Paul's part, sorry about that.

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  • 3 months later...

Hey guys, I am going to put new sneakers on my bike, want to replace the wheel bearings as well. I see the above part number for SKF bearings, just want to confirm the dimensions for our bike: 20x47x14mm. The parts catalog, and MG Cycle product page for the bearings (http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1428) don't list the dimensions.

 

Thanks! And Happy New Year!

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Where are you going to purchase the parts ? 

Go to the SKF website & decipher the entire part # . The prefix and suffix tell all about axial load,speed,seal material, etc..... Not all 6204 bearings are the same . Do not go for the price only when selecting these parts.

 Good luck

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