hugger removal

[Paulsmartv11]

I struggled to remove the hugger, what is obviously a very simple job was made quite difficult by rubbish captive screw / nuts. I had to drill out all but one as they just rotated around.

 

Any suggestions for a repair, what type of nut was used in the first place?????

 

I'll probably have to take to an engineering shop to have some sort of threaded insert put in.

 

Paul

[rbt1548]

I struggled to remove the hugger, what is obviously a very simple job was made quite difficult by rubbish captive screw / nuts. I had to drill out all but one as they just rotated around.

 

Any suggestions for a repair, what type of nut was used in the first place?????

 

I'll probably have to take to an engineering shop to have some sort of threaded insert put in.

 

Paul

 

Hi Paul, I take it the insert are rotating?, as they are not load bearing screws that will be put under pressure, maybe some 'metal weld' around the edge of the hole to stop the insert rotating and if necessary, if the thread is damaged, some into the hole and recut the standard thread.

[rex007can]

I had the same problem yesterday trying to put a hugger on my new-to-me swingarm. One of the inserts started rotating with the screw.

I'm thinking a bit or red locktite should do the trick...

[gstallons]

I am thinking you need to stake the insert with a punch. Take a tap & chase the threads where the screw will go in w/o binding.

[68C]

It may be like a 'Rivnut', these are put in a bit like a pop rivet with a threaded mandrel instead of the break stem. Pulled up with similar pliers then the mandrel is unthreaded. They rely on the resistance of the pull-up to stop them spinning, more exotic types have a lug or even a fine spline to stop them spinning.

 

You can sometimes fix them by running a nut and washer up a six inch piece of threaded bar to suit the insert, bend the bar above the nut by 90 degrees. Try and dibble loctite around the insert NOT IN THE THREAD, then screw the threaded bar into the insert, grease the threaded bar just above the insert but try not to contaminate the Loctited area. You then hold the bent bit of threaded bar and tighten the nut down onto the washer and insert - if you are lucky this should reset the insert. Leave overnight to ensure the Loctite sets, as I am sure you know the Loctite sets where there is NO air so may still be sticky on the surface. How tight to do the nut? We used to say 'up until it snaps then back off half a turn'. Seriously, you should feel the torque suddenly increase once the insert is set.Immediately unscrew the threaded bar incase the loctite has got onto it.

 

 

Good luck, I would send some of ours but the Titanic sailed from here.

[Paulsmartv11]

It may be like a 'Rivnut', these are put in a bit like a pop rivet with a threaded mandrel instead of the break stem. Pulled up with similar pliers then the mandrel is unthreaded. They rely on the resistance of the pull-up to stop them spinning, more exotic types have a lug or even a fine spline to stop them spinning.

 

You can sometimes fix them by running a nut and washer up a six inch piece of threaded bar to suit the insert, bend the bar above the nut by 90 degrees. Try and dibble loctite around the insert NOT IN THE THREAD, then screw the threaded bar into the insert, grease the threaded bar just above the insert but try not to contaminate the Loctited area. You then hold the bent bit of threaded bar and tighten the nut down onto the washer and insert - if you are lucky this should reset the insert. Leave overnight to ensure the Loctite sets, as I am sure you know the Loctite sets where there is NO air so may still be sticky on the surface. How tight to do the nut? We used to say 'up until it snaps then back off half a turn'. Seriously, you should feel the torque suddenly increase once the insert is set.Immediately unscrew the threaded bar incase the loctite has got onto it.

 

 

Good luck, I would send some of ours but the Titanic sailed from here.

Thanks for advice, I decided to get a proper job done, with some inserts welded in. The swing arm is off the bike any way for re-painting.

 

pAUL

[AndyH]

 

Thanks for advice, I decided to get a proper job done, with some inserts welded in. The swing arm is off the bike any way for re-painting.

 

pAUL

Is that 'repainting because getting the bearings out makes a right mess of the paintwork when you heat it' by any chance? .

I had to grind the screw heads off to get the hugger off: drilling out just rotated the inserts even more and you can't get behind the inserts to hold them in place until you've removed the hugger.

I've ordered some new inserts off Wendel and when I get them, will spot braze them in place so they don't rotate. I'm getting the swingarm recoated anyway (for aforementioned reasons)

AndyH

[docc]

And here I thought the staking sounded like such a simple solution. Maybe that term is not universal?

[Paulsmartv11]

 

Thanks for advice, I decided to get a proper job done, with some inserts welded in. The swing arm is off the bike any way for re-painting.

 

pAUL

Is that 'repainting because getting the bearings out makes a right mess of the paintwork when you heat it' by any chance? .

I had to grind the screw heads off to get the hugger off: drilling out just rotated the inserts even more and you can't get behind the inserts to hold them in place until you've removed the hugger.

I've ordered some new inserts off Wendel and when I get them, will spot braze them in place so they don't rotate. I'm getting the swingarm recoated anyway (for aforementioned reasons)

AndyH

Repainting will be done by hammerite smooth black, as the swing arm bearing are fine, I have no desire to remove them! as most of the swing arm can't be seen, I think hammerite will be ok.

[felix42o]

Were it me (which it's not), I'd just leave that ugly thing off, and fab up a simple plastic rain/muck guard to protect the rear shock/under seat area. Makes the bike look about 50 lbs lighter IMO.

[AndyH]

Were it me (which it's not), I'd just leave that ugly thing off, and fab up a simple plastic rain/muck guard to protect the rear shock/under seat area. Makes the bike look about 50 lbs lighter IMO.

 

Yer right, it is a bit of a blob. Not got the skills or facilities to fab one up and it would look crap if I did. Any options out there on the market that anyone knows of?

[felix42o]

Were it me (which it's not), I'd just leave that ugly thing off, and fab up a simple plastic rain/muck guard to protect the rear shock/under seat area. Makes the bike look about 50 lbs lighter IMO.

 

Yer right, it is a bit of a blob. Not got the skills or facilities to fab one up and it would look crap if I did. Any options out there on the market that anyone knows of?

 

You really just need a piece of thin, flexible plastic cut to fit. If you search around on this site other members have posted pictures/plans/etc. on dimensions. All you'd be looking to do is protect the shock, battery and underseat area.

[AndyH]

You really just need a piece of thin, flexible plastic cut to fit. If you search around on this site other members have posted pictures/plans/etc. on dimensions. All you'd be looking to do is protect the shock, battery and underseat area.

Thanks, will look around at what's been done. Maybe not beyond me after all.

[dave]

I was able to use a cut down ducati ss rear hugger... it had a good basic profile and was made of beafy crack-resistant plastic

[Darius]

I was able to use a cut down ducati ss rear hugger... it had a good basic profile and was made of beafy crack-resistant plastic

 

Hello Dave

 

I have been looking around for a hugger to replace the stock (IMO ugly) one while extending further down to protect the shock and engine cases. Your application seems like just the ticket. Can you share what year(s) Ducati SS this came from? Thanks