Query re raising bars on 04 Le mans

[Dazguzzi]

Hi,

can anyone tell me if when raising the bars on a 04 Le Mans if any of the control cables/brake lines/clutch lines need to be extended.

 

I am thinking about either fitting similar bars to a Ballabio or getting some clip on converters that will raise things an inch or two.

 

I am just after a heads up as to how much ( Extra unseen ) work might be involved in doing this other than just actually fitting the bars.

 

Cheers Darryl

[stormsedge]

The bar risers from MPH come with front brake line and clutch line to make the reach...so factor bleeding those into your timeline if going that route. k

[vuzzi]

I have a set of fork upper plate, bar and bar clamps (form Ballabio / scura or similar) to put on my le mans. I found that the bar interferes with the flairing, so you might need an adjustment for that standard bar / clamps. There are solutions like handle bar risers (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2016/), but I don't like the make a 'complex' construction on the bar. You will need to move the bar towards you, not upwards. Different bar clamps may work. I 've seen the on a second hand v11 at tlm (sold now).

I can't say much about the cables since the previous owned had had some sort of bar on the bike too and at leased changed the front brake cable. The clutch cable that is on the bike now may be standard and is too short.

[Dazguzzi]

I have a set of fork upper plate, bar and bar clamps (form Ballabio / scura or similar) to put on my le mans. I found that the bar interferes with the flairing, so you might need an adjustment for that standard bar / clamps. There are solutions like handle bar risers (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2016/), but I don't like the make a 'complex' construction on the bar. You will need to move the bar towards you, not upwards. Different bar clamps may work. I 've seen the on a second hand v11 at tlm (sold now).

I can't say much about the cables since the previous owned had had some sort of bar on the bike too and at leased changed the front brake cable. The clutch cable that is on the bike now may be standard and is too short.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Darryl

[68C]

I drilled my Rosso Corsa yoke and used Yamaha TDM850 risers, they are neat and move the bars up and back. I use alloy Renthal gold anaodised bars, the existing cables fit with a bit of fiddling, they run down between the instrument bracket and the yoke, just a touch with a file to give clearance. Looks a lot better than it sounds.

[Dazguzzi]

I drilled my Rosso Corsa yoke and used Yamaha TDM850 risers, they are neat and move the bars up and back. I use alloy Renthal gold anaodised bars, the existing cables fit with a bit of fiddling, they run down between the instrument bracket and the yoke, just a touch with a file to give clearance. Looks a lot better than it sounds.

 

Thanks thats brilliant, any photos?

 

An idea that i had was to buy as set of used 22mm Renthal Bars like this , cut the centre section out of them, remove the existing clip on handlebar tubes but leave the clip on clamps in place and then insert these separate Renthal tubes into the clamps.

This should be a cheap easy fix to getting the bars up and back.

 

Views on this idea, good or bad + WHY would be greatly appreciated

 

Cheers Darryl

[vuzzi]

I drilled my Rosso Corsa yoke and used Yamaha TDM850 risers, they are neat and move the bars up and back. I use alloy Renthal gold anaodised bars, the existing cables fit with a bit of fiddling, they run down between the instrument bracket and the yoke, just a touch with a file to give clearance. Looks a lot better than it sounds.

 

Great suggestion. I've looked them up and what is found is more or less like the ones on the tlm v11:

http://www.swamotorsportwarehouse.com/YAMAHA-VIRAGO-FAZER-TDM850-250-535--XV535-700-750-1000-1100-HANDLEBAR-RISERS-CLAMPS-3263

 

I might give that a try, since I still like to have a superbike bar, though I got used to the clip ons too

[68C]

Hopefully pictures of bars and footrests.I find the bike much nicer like this and far easier to control in town. The mods don't cost much, the left footrest reposition costs nothing. Full lock no problem, I fitted mirrors to the bars as the wider riding stance meant I could not see in the stock mirrors.

 

Top ends of brake and clutch hoses 'bent' a little to line up, also a kiss with a file in the edge of the instrument support panel and top yoke to stop pipes rubbing, a bit of clear sleeving may be a good idea.

 

Left footrest repositioned, makes it a bit of a stretch to the brake lever but I have big feet and am used to it now. Also gear lever just touches the pork-chops when pressed down, I will probably make clearance on the pork-chop one day.

 

Right footrest relocated, I added a spacer tube inside the brake lever and a longer countersunk allen bolt ( OK, so I used an angle grinder to put a chamfer on a standard allen bolt - just temporarily of course...). Also had to adjust brake lever lower and put a piece of bent metal in as the eccentric stop is too small with the lever adjusted so low.

 

 

CAUTION, these mods made by an old bodger - use at your own peril. Be aware the footrest no longer fit into the recessed oblong areas so may rotate, never caused me any problems though. Oh, I had to bend a 17mm spanner to fit the nuts.

[Tom M]

I have a set of fork upper plate, bar and bar clamps (form Ballabio / scura or similar) to put on my le mans. I found that the bar interferes with the flairing, so you might need an adjustment for that standard bar / clamps. There are solutions like handle bar risers (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2016/), but I don't like the make a 'complex' construction on the bar. You will need to move the bar towards you, not upwards. Different bar clamps may work. I 've seen the on a second hand v11 at tlm (sold now).

I can't say much about the cables since the previous owned had had some sort of bar on the bike too and at leased changed the front brake cable. The clutch cable that is on the bike now may be standard and is too short.

 

I too have a set of Ballabio bars & clamps on my LeMans. I was able to set them up so they don't hit the fairing by repositioning the reservoirs and rotating the bars back just a little. I'm using the stock clutch line but I have a non-stock brake master & lines so I can't say if the stock line would fit.

 

Pics:

 

FWIW the Ballabio risers are 55mm high (without rubber bushing) and they have an 8mm offset. The Ballabio bars are 45mm high with about a 115mm backsweep.

[68C]

As I have drilled my top yoke and fitted Yamaha TDM850 risers I don't have any rubber bushes, vibes are not unpleasant although the mirrors go a bit fuzzy at certain speeds. I have been messing about adding various lumps of lead to the end of the bars help things.

 

Does anyone know the diameter of the riser holes in the top yoke, are they parallel or tapered in from either side?

I had thought about adding bushes but did not know how much metal it is safe to remove. There are two raised cast in lumps on the underside of the top yoke, I suspect it is the same casting for both bikes, so I drilled through the centre of the bumps. I had to use spacers under the the yoke as the TDM risers are too long - but may be just right with the bushes. I still have the TDM850 top yoke which has pressed in bushes so may be able to use those. Also I added washers on the top of the yoke as there is a raised area preventing the risers sitting flat, I was intending to counterbore the area if I did'nt fit any bushes.

[dale-j]

I went with the Tommaselli adjustable clipons sold by MG Cycle. I have them full up, as well as the clamps rotated to the outside rear to bring them closer to the rider. The rise and pullback do not appear dramatic at first - especially given that the location of the bars at the rear of the fork tube puts them at a lower angle that negates some of the rise- but the change in the riding position on the bike certainly is dramatic, and is good for me. I can use the back part of my seat now and the bike is much more comfortable to hang off in corners, with me not stretched so far out forward. It is more striking to see the old bars beside the new on the bike to see how much has changed, but they don't look 'stuck out' like the fat bar conversions I have seen. In addition, they clear the fairings with no issues and preserve the good looks of the stock bike, unlike (IMO) the Ballabio bars.

 

They do require you to drop the triples down over the fork tubes by about 7mm, but with the change in body position and less weight on the front, it seems fine for stability. I did get a slight headshake on my last ride, on a bumpy down hill decreasing radius corner, however my damper was set very light and my bike is still far more stable than my brother in law's stock red framed V11 Sport. A small slide leaned over hard in a tight second gear corner was an even push front and back with no major drama, so I'm happy with the stability and balance of the set up, a little less happy with the stick of the Z6 Interact's however that's off topic.

 

I did not have to do anything other than to loosen and reposition the upper brake master cylinder banjo bolt, however my bike had the Ballabio bushings in the top triple and the PO indicated that there was a Ballabio conversion on it when he bought the bike. Some cables may already have been rerouted or changed so the install might be harder for others than it was for me.

 

I have lots of comparison and install pics if anyone wants to pm me an email address. Too many to post here... the picture attached is prior to sliding the fork tubes up but shows the general bar position I came up with. Keep in mind I have a fairly narrow build and strongly prefer a more swept back bar angle to the wide and flat dirt bike bar style of the Ballabio. I also think that the look suits the bike better too.

[dale-j]

By the way, my brother in law has the MPH risers on his red frame V11 Sport, and is very happy with them. I wanted to try something a little different and less expensive with the Tommaselli's, but the MPH's are a very good system as well.

 

I have the holes in my top triple from the Ballabio bushings, and also have the bushings so I can measure the holes over the next few days and will post up.

[fotoguzzi]

[dale-j]

I have the holes in my top triple from the Ballabio bushings, and also have the bushings so I can measure the holes over the next few days and will post up.

 

Holes in the top triple are 20mm. I had a bit of trouble measuring it installed on the bike, as I have heated grip wiring running through one and wiring for an Innovate Motorsports AFR guage running through the other now. I also measured the OD of the bushings to be sure, and they were 20.11 mm with the steel inserts in, so about what you would expect to have a good press fit with everything assembled. My guess is you could even be the imperial fractional equivalent of 20mm if it was a little on the tight side (maybe 25/32"?), as in my recollection the bushings came out easier than I expected. Teh 3 piece bushings are a factory Guzzi part, top and bottom rubber goes in and then the steel sleeve is inserted which tightens the whole thing up nicely.

 

Oh, the bushing holes are located in the 'thin' part of the top triple, just inside the line of the raised lip on the outside, and all the V11 triples that I have seen (mine included) have the boss cast in the bottom for reinforcement from the factory at the correct location.

[twhitaker]

I went the Fotoguzzi route with a little twist. I swapped sides with the base brackets that clamp around the fork tubes. This puts the stubs behind the tubes. After a little bit of rerouting the hoses and cables everything fit without needing any extensions. MPH does (did) sell the risers without the longer hoses for about half the price.