Suspension Adjustment

[Kiwi_Roy]

Something I have never tried to do is adjust the suspension, I just left it where the PO had it set.

I have changed the oil in the front forks so its no longer valid. I'm sure I'm not the only one who finds this all a mystery.

 

My 2001 V11 Sport has the rear susspension with white spring and blue adjustment nuts/knobs. I can figure out the large castelated nuts are for pre-load but how do you set that, is there a measurement to take while sitting on the bike?

What does the knurled collar at the other end of the shock do?

Then there's the valve on the little tank off to one side, it's all to much.

 

At the front of course there's the compression rebound valves, what's the proceedure there?

 

I immagine that once it's all set up and you take on a passenger or load up for camping you should adjust the pre-load.

 

Thanks in advance

Roy

[Buzzard]

Here is the fast and simple. On the rear, you want the spring to be about 152MM in length between the adjuster rings when the shock is fully extended. The compression knob, on the bottle looking thing on the LH side, is to be 10 clicks out from fully in. The rebound adjuster, the knurled ring just above the lower shock eye, is to be 20 clicks out from fully in. On the fork adjusters, one atop each leg, the manual has no starting points, but an OK way is to count the available clicks, then go out half that as a starting point. I find on my V11 that setting all of these settings (comp and rebound) out a few more than std works well. All of these settings are starting points, and can be fooled with till you are either happy or exhausted.

 

As to just what all these do, how much spring preload is needed, and so on can fill up a couple of sides of typewriter paper. But yes, a little more preload is good with a passenger. PM me if you want the long version.

[GuzziMoto]

There is a ton of info out there on this subject.

If you want to hear a readers digest version of my opinion on the subject I will throw it out there. Just remember that in the end you have to decide for yourself.

There is a fairly well defined science to setting sag. You measure the suspension fully extended. Then you measure it compressed under the weight of the bike. Then you measure it compressed under the weight of the bike with the rider on board. Individual preferences vary, but in general there should be about 5 - 10 mm of suspension compression front and rear under just the weight of the bike. That would be the first measurement minus the second. Call that free sag. Then you want 25 - 35 mm of suspension compression under the weight of the bike with the rider on board. That would be the first measurement minus the third. Call that race sag. If your race sag is right but your free sag is too little or none at all then you need stiffer springs. If your race sag is right but your free sag is too much then you need softer springs. If you can only get one of the two right then get the race sag right.

Once your sag is set right (or close to it) then you can start with dampening. The factory settings are a good place to start. From there, only adjust on thing at a time. I start with rebound, I like to have the bare minimum of rebound dampening. I start with too much and wind the rebound out until the bike starts to feel nervous and then turn it back up a click or two. Then with the compression dampening I again start with too much and wind it out until the bike starts to wallow and transfer too much weight under braking then back it in a couple clicks. But that is me, I prefer more spring and just enough dampening to keep the springs under control.

[OldButNotDead]

I tried setting up my V11 way back when, and eventually brought it to a suspension specialist. There's some art and feel that I didn't get from how-to guides.

 

That said, the source I like best for diy suspension info is: Racetech

[Kiwi_Roy]

Thanks gentlemen, that will certainly give me a good start.

 

Roy

[motowarren]

Here is the fast and simple. On the rear, you want the spring to be about 152MM in length between the adjuster rings when the shock is fully extended. The compression knob, on the bottle looking thing on the LH side, is to be 10 clicks out from fully in. The rebound adjuster, the knurled ring just above the lower shock eye, is to be 20 clicks out from fully in.

I just went to adjust my rear suspension because it seems very jaring over these back roads. Anyway I'm kinda confused because my owners manual seems to be totally out in left field as far as clicks go. I assume I have a white power suspension (white spring blue adjusters. However in the quote from Buzzard here it says "The knurled ring just above the lower shock eye". My knurled shock adjuster is what I would call the top shock eye, up under the tank and the spring preload is toward the back of the bike. Is that the way it should be or did someone put it on wrong??

[GuzziMoto]

The top shock eye is the one that attaches to the fatter shock body. It is also the end that has the reservoir attached. The lower eye (the one that should be closer to the rear tire) is the one that attaches to the skinnier shock shaft.

The idea is that the shock shaft is the part that moves with the rear suspension and the fatter shock body should be mounted to the bike.

[motowarren]

The top shock eye is the one that attaches to the fatter shock body. It is also the end that has the reservoir attached. The lower eye (the one that should be closer to the rear tire) is the one that attaches to the skinnier shock shaft.

The idea is that the shock shaft is the part that moves with the rear suspension and the fatter shock body should be mounted to the bike.

Drats, that's what I thought. My shock is on upside down, backwards, wrong, whatever. So now I have to take the tank off and change it and I don't think the tank is going to come off too easily as I think it's out of shape. I guess I should drain it so it doesn't get further out of shape.