Clutch wear

[HaydnR]

Hello all

 

I'm looking for your opinions on this clutch/flywheel. It is from a V11 Rosso Corsa (25000 miles)  Although the flywheel is quite notched there were no problems with the clutch operation before the engine ate itself. I will need new friction plates as one of the linings has un-bonded, does anyone know the wear limit as these measure 7.5mm thick? I'm ordering the kit which includes 2x friction plates, intermediate plate and hub (any issues with sd-tec plates?) The pressure plate seems fine.

Is it possible that the v11 flywheel being lighter was made from a softer material? I found a daytona flywheel for sale which has slight marks from the pressure and intermediate plate but no where near as bad.

 

H

 

 

Daytona flywheel

[mznyc]

Looks like you'll need new push rod seals,washer and hub.I have the SD-techs waiting to go in ,no experience with them but got a killer deal on Ebay for them.MG Cycle sells them so would assume they are reputable.Have you talked to Peter at Reboot?

Has that locknut been hacked at? Waiting on the correct tool to remove that is holding me up putting the motor back in.

This should be in technical topics,....

[HaydnR]

Looks like you'll need new push rod seals,washer and hub.I have the SD-techs waiting to go in ,no experience with them but got a killer deal on Ebay for them.MG Cycle sells them so would assume they are reputable.Have you talked to Peter at Reboot?

Has that locknut been hacked at? Waiting on the correct tool to remove that is holding me up putting the motor back in.

This should be in technical topics,....

 

I didn't think about the pushrod seala, I was going to replace the crank and input shaft seals. I had ordered the clutch kit from sd (stein dinse) but questioned the hub supplied in the kit and they have replied saying that it is not the correct hub which will be 140 euro alone! The locknut had not been hacked (at that point), are you looking at the burr on the dlocating slot on the shaft? I have been scouring the net for a suitable tool for the km05 locknut, stein dinse do them at about 35 euro which isn't too bad, a damn sight better than the +130 euro wanted from most places which is ok if you are doing a load of them. There is a chap on uk ebay which can make up a tool at a reasonable cost, me being Mr impatient ground down a £3, 28mm socket which done the job. Using a rattle gun I didnt need to lock the shaft.

 

Skf km lock nut chart clickable for dimensions (clutch hub nut/input shaft is km5):

 

http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalogue/jsp/viewers/productTableViewer.jsp?presentationType=3&lang=en&tableName=1_16_3

 

I realised that this thread should be in the tech section after posting, so if a mod would like to do the honours.

[mznyc]

What is the wet stuff around the hub? Do you spray something or is that trans fluid?

Micha at MI sent these,

95028025 – lock washer

90706233 – input shaft o-ring

90404059 – input seal

as recommended replacement on a clutch job.

Also sent the rear bearing seal and breather pipe gasket,

90405367 – rear main seal

12007600 – breather pipe gasket

What tools do you need to pull/install the rear seal?

 

There appears to be a few imperfections on the locknut,maybe the homemade tool did that/

140 for the hub sounds about right.

35 Euro isnt bad for the KM5.I have corresponded with the Ebay seller,just waiting for a response to last email I sent him a couple days ago.JRT is lending me a tool,we're not sure if it is correct.I dont have fabrications tools available to me.

Please add more photos and updates,it will help me and others who havent done this before.

[HaydnR]

I need to investigate the dampness, I reckon that it is transmission fluid which has combined with the friction material dust making an efficient grinding paste causing the wear on the components, but it hasn't leaked enough to cause the clutch to slip or drip from the housing.

The rear seal, if I can't pull it with a couple of seal picks that I have I will screw a couple of self tapping screws into the seal and pry it out using them being careful not to damage the mating surfaces. I sent the ebay guy a link to the dimensions of the km5 nut but had no response as yet.

I was trying to work out from parts diagrams if the new 8v single plate clutch could fit but got lost when trying to see how the clutch fits the input shaft on the gearbox but at 400 euro I will stick with the twin plate.

I'm enjoying following your progress also.

[mznyc]

I need to investigate the dampness, I reckon that it is transmission fluid which has combined with the friction material dust making an efficient grinding paste causing the wear on the components, but it hasn't leaked enough to cause the clutch to slip or drip from the housing.

The rear seal, if I can't pull it with a couple of seal picks that I have I will screw a couple of self tapping screws into the seal and pry it out using them being careful not to damage the mating surfaces. I sent the ebay guy a link to the dimensions of the km5 nut but had no response as yet.

I was trying to work out from parts diagrams if the new 8v single plate clutch could fit but got lost when trying to see how the clutch fits the input shaft on the gearbox but at 400 euro I will stick with the twin plate.

I'm enjoying following your progress also.

Ha ha ,with enjoyment I hope!Would been back in if I had that damm hub tool.

Yup it looked like trans fluid,just wondered if you sprayed it with some cleaner and it mixed with dust.Probably the push rod seal.I obviously dont know from experience but from what Ive been taught in this process by others who know a lot more than me.If you dont want to open it soon a cheap fix.About $4 USD for o ring and washer.Seal is either $22 or 36 according to my invoice from MI,just dont have them in front of me to confirm which one was what.

If you hear from the Ebay guy let me know I emailed him again this morning.He had been prompt to emails last week.Gave him dimensions a few days ago and nada,probably busy.

Michael

PS I got the twin plate set-up from Reboot.It came off an 08 Griso.Peter would know which ones would fit the V11's.I think it was about $250 US once again would have to check.It had serviceable friction plates but the SD-s were cheap so I didnt want to put in a set that I would change in 10K,...