dlaing Posted December 15, 2003 Posted December 15, 2003 That probably explains why the crossover on 2003+ machines have better midrange. (raised compression aside) I am not even gonna attempt to crunch those other formulas!
Guest captain nemo Posted December 15, 2003 Posted December 15, 2003 Yes, I could simply buy one of the new crossover headers, but they are $500 bucks. Then I could run my pods off of those. That would solve everything. I still don't know about running my pipes through the stock crossover and then out. If I have adjustable exhaust pods, I don't see why I can't run each one straight off its own header. I guess I'm still planning on putting the crossover back on, but I think I am only doing it to cut sound a little and to share a little exhaust with each head. ( You see, I think I could get any sort of backpressure with the adjustable Supertraps).
Guest captain nemo Posted December 16, 2003 Posted December 16, 2003 UPDATE. I found a welder who can bend pipe. We are going to add a crossover pipe about 7 inches from where the headers go into the heads. Then we are going to add ANOTHER crossover pipe OR expand the crossover box for greater capacity. Then we are going to weld on the Supertrap pods so they are not too close to the rear wheel. Around the corner is a painting shop who claims to put on the same ceramic (jet-hot) type thermal coats. All this should happen this week if all goes well. Then I'm going to Miami and will put it together and test LATER BABY.
emry Posted December 16, 2003 Posted December 16, 2003 Here is the Hardly Ableson solution to the drag pipes. Seems to be based on the Supertrapp. Making drag pipes work. You all want some Intake formulas to play with??
Guest captain nemo Posted December 16, 2003 Posted December 16, 2003 UPDATE: I've been reading more on the wonders of 2 into 1. And now a further idea: Not only will there be a cross pipe going by the alternator to connect the headers, but the lower pipes will NOT empty into the 'crab' box of nothingness - NO - instead I will be installing a perfectly round cylinder about 3 and a half inches across. It will sit lengthwise about 13 inches. One side will be sealed shut and the other side will have welded on the Supertrap pod. So, only one exit and a much tighter vacuum system for scarfing. Pretty good weight savings too. The pipes that normally feed into the crab will now be welded directly into the large cylinder. I like that there are no corners for the gasses to hang out in. Should be interesting.
dlaing Posted December 16, 2003 Posted December 16, 2003 Make sure you can get this on and off the bike. The headers have to go forward to be removed, so anything in the crossover area cannot hit the oil pan when the headers are moved forward. If you know what I mean. For example, my Quat-D muffler would not have been removeable if I had welded it to the headers. The stock crossover may however be small enough that it could slide forward. Your cylinder should be designed with that in mind if you are welding it on.
Guest captain nemo Posted December 17, 2003 Posted December 17, 2003 Thanks David. You are right. All the action will happen at the crossover. The headers will remain the same, especially because they also have outlets for snifters. The main problem as I see it with these bikes is that the crossover is not large enough. SO, I will be adding two small crossovers at the 'crab' - thus greatly increasing volume. This will dump into a SINGLE exhaust pod - UNDER THE CRAB. Ground clearance will be small (maybe 4 inches), but it will be dead center. I'll probably even have a small mud flap to keep sound down and exhaust off the rear tire. A real 'Nautulus' affair. Will the mad Nemo destroy his bike or create a marvel??????
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