Bob Hartman Posted June 22, 2012 Posted June 22, 2012 price seems a little high if he wants to sell.. you can look up ended auctions on ebay and see what some have sold for.. Agree. There are two KBB prices: The high price is "Retail", which implies serviced from a dealer with some come back if anything goes wrong in the first 30 or 60 days. The low price is "Trade-In", which is one option for a seller. Quite a different number altogether.
Chuck Posted June 22, 2012 Posted June 22, 2012 You're comparing an R65 to a LeMans?? Seriously?? Sorry, no offense meant, but... oh, never mind.
thebronze Posted July 2, 2012 Author Posted July 2, 2012 OK i've got a few miles on the bike now and some concerns have surfaced. The bike has a stumble/misfire at low rpms. It only seems to do this when its warmed up. Typical instance would be after about 10 minutes of riding in near 100f heat. Pulling away from a stop sign in first and the bike lurches and pops into a misfire. Its enough to feel the momentum on the bike stop before it catches and then i'm on my way. It has happened at speeds under 50mph too, kind of a stumble, not as bad at those speeds but from a stop its annoying as hell. I cant say ive encountered this on my previous bikes so i'm not sure where to start looking. I found a post from the PO and he mentioned detonation that was helped by the raceco valve specs. I'm using high octane gas and the raceco specs. I would really appreciate any help with this. On the plus side, every time I ride the bike i'm smiling my ass off. It handles really well, very predictable and very comfortable riding position. The stock mufflers are really quiet so I pulled one off and fired the bike up. It made the most heavenly sound from that side, or should I say devilish? Sounded like the thunder clap that came out of my monster w termignonis, but better and deeper. I cant wait to get rid of the stock cans.
docc Posted July 2, 2012 Posted July 2, 2012 Glad you're enjoying your new ride! There are a myriad of contributors to the "sneeze/hiccup" so common at low rpm. Start with the pinned tune-up in "HowTo" and we'll go from there. And if you wake up one day and can't find your ass, you must have smiled it completely off!
thebronze Posted July 3, 2012 Author Posted July 3, 2012 Glad you're enjoying your new ride! There are a myriad of contributors to the "sneeze/hiccup" so common at low rpm. Start with the pinned tune-up in "HowTo" and we'll go from there. And if you wake up one day and can't find your ass, you must have smiled it completely off! THanks Docc, but I dont see a Tune Up thread pinned in the HowTo forum. Do you have a link to it?
docc Posted July 3, 2012 Posted July 3, 2012 Woops - it's in Frequently Asked Questions: TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning /how to set your TPS and balance your throttle bodies
Orson Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 OK i've got a few miles on the bike now and some concerns have surfaced. The bike has a stumble/misfire at low rpms. It only seems to do this when its warmed up. Typical instance would be after about 10 minutes of riding in near 100f heat. Pulling away from a stop sign in first and the bike lurches and pops into a misfire. I had something similar to me on a hot day when I got caught by something like 5 consecutive red lights, all spaced about 100 feet apart! The bike started sputtering something terrible. I pulled off the road and let it sit for about 30 minutes. When I started it up again, everything seemed to be normal. All I could figure was that it had overheated due to the five consecutive red lights on a hot summer's day It doesn't seem to like city traffic. It's happiest out on the open road
thebronze Posted July 5, 2012 Author Posted July 5, 2012 You might be right, but everytime I ride i'm hitting stop lights in damn near 100f. Maybe it has something to do with a temp sensor since it only happens when the bike is very warm. I'll give the tune up a try. I think the previous owner synch'd the throttle bodies but I'm not sure if he checked the TPS and this bike is a 2002 so it needs to be verified.
docc Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 In these temps and what we have for "fuel," I find 4000 miles not too soon for a proper tune (valves, plugs, TPS, throttle balance, idle setting). Again, don't be afraid to add a hundred rpm to your idle. 1250 is not too high and a full turn out on the air screws will tolerate the heat better. Do all this first and be certain your TPS is not nicked at the idle spot. Otherwise, there is a (controversial) temp sensor modification . . .
mznyc Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 there is a (controversial) temp sensor modification . . . What's this Docc? I missed this,maybe cause I havent had any heat related issues.
docc Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 there is a (controversial) temp sensor modification . . . What's this Docc? I missed this,maybe cause I havent had any heat related issues. There was a trend some years back to swap the plastic engine temperature sensor holder to another Guzzi part that was all brass. The method was to also add a paste to bring the brass sheath of the sensor into contact with the holder; the thinking being that the engine temperature would be more accurately read. Now, much of the year it is quite hot where I ride in the southeastern USA and the Sport was especially angry about dragging along in traffic or parking lots in this heat (over 90-100F / 32-38C). After using the high mass holder for a couple years (something like 15,000 miles), I returned to the plastic holder with no contact paste and saw immediate improvement. A couple forum members had worked up a modification removing the integrated brass sheath from the sensor and fabricating a Delrin holder. Worked well for me - summary thread here: Engine Temperature Sensor
Lamedog Posted July 20, 2012 Posted July 20, 2012 Second docc's advice. My '02 developed serious hiccup and power loss this spring. Finally did a real TPS adjust instead of just sync TB's, do valves, filters and fluids. Solved the problem. I replaced Rubbers between TB's and head because Of the many evident small cracks around outside. Couldn't see them on inside, but wanted to be sure there were no air leaks. Not too expensive in any case. However, subsequent destructive testing confirmed they were superficial only. I hear this is a common dead end for folks. Do TB synch and TPS adjust first. Enjoy, this is part of why you bought a Guzzi, though you may not have realized or desired this....
jrt Posted July 22, 2012 Posted July 22, 2012 And when you get around to wanting to 'unleash the sound', then get a set of mistral mufflers and stucchi crossover. Enrichen the mixture a bit via the TPS and you will be good to go.
V11boy Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 Second docc's advice. My '02 developed serious hiccup and power loss this spring. Finally did a real TPS adjust instead of just sync TB's, do valves, filters and fluids. Solved the problem. I replaced Rubbers between TB's and head because Of the many evident small cracks around outside. Couldn't see them on inside, but wanted to be sure there were no air leaks. Not too expensive in any case. However, subsequent destructive testing confirmed they were superficial only. I hear this is a common dead end for folks. Do TB synch and TPS adjust first. Enjoy, this is part of why you bought a Guzzi, though you may not have realized or desired this.... Thats a great line! I am currently going through exactly the same issues as you thebronze, hopefully this week getting TPS/TB sync'd/Fluids changed etc... Then some Mistral pipes/Stucchi crossover... hope it goes to plan
thebronze Posted August 16, 2012 Author Posted August 16, 2012 Thats a great line! I am currently going through exactly the same issues as you thebronze, hopefully this week getting TPS/TB sync'd/Fluids changed etc... Then some Mistral pipes/Stucchi crossover... hope it goes to plan Man i'm light years away from a TPS synch. I added a second ground wire for the rectifier since the charging fuse was melted and replaced the fuse. It already runs better. I spent 4 hours yesterday trying to grease the drive shaft before breaking the coupler.
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