veloguzzi Posted June 8, 2012 Posted June 8, 2012 Hi all, I have a new-to-me since March, 2001 V11 sport, that I have been sorting. It has about 9500 mi, Magni fairing, PCIII, and some unidentifiable carbon cans that look like the FBF but are more round. The crossover looks stock. At delivery, it started and ran fine, but would hiccup in the 2500-3000 rpm range with light throttle openings. This progressed to almost complete loss of power at all throttle openings when steady state cruising from 2-3k rpm. I had the valves adjusted, oil changed, gearbox fluid change, new fuel filter, with no change. I then had a PC dyno tune by a shop not familiar with MG's (mostly Harley) but the only thing close with a dyno. There was a noticeable improvement, and the bike is now quite rideable, but there is still an occasional hiccup on decel or with light throttle. Next up is, of course, TB sync and TPS setting. Will have to tackle this myself, soon as I muster the courage and meters. Have also lost the tach, lights and horn, usually happening on hot restarts. Waiting for my new relays in the mail. My dyno graph also showed the "typical" midrange dip, but otherwise looked similar to those seen on this site. I am thinking about adding the Mistral crossover to improve the midrange, and add some sound. Questions: 1. Will it work with the center stand, and do I need to modify it to work 2. Do I need to go back on the dyno for another PC tune after its installed (might be a hassle, not a convenient place) Thanks
ponti_33609 Posted June 8, 2012 Posted June 8, 2012 Yikes! They are not happy till 5000rpm. At those rpm's folks say you are lugging you Guzzi. Congrats though. Bob
mznyc Posted June 8, 2012 Posted June 8, 2012 Hi Velloguzzi This is from our dearly departed(of the forum not the earth)Greg Field.He found the Mistral gave the most midrange and worked with the center stand. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=quick_search&search_sort_by=date&search_sort_order=desc&search_term=Tale+of+crossovers&search_filter_app[forums]=1&st=75 As far as hiccuping you would probably be better off starting by setting your PC to a O map or disconnecting it all together ,do the TPS and balance first,then re-install PC with correct map.Otherwise you and many others have chased their tail trying to get it right. You checked all exhaust and TB boot connections? Michael
veloguzzi Posted June 8, 2012 Author Posted June 8, 2012 Hi Velloguzzi This is from our dearly departed(of the forum not the earth)Greg Field.He found the Mistral gave the most midrange and worked with the center stand. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=quick_search&search_sort_by=date&search_sort_order=desc&search_term=Tale+of+crossovers&search_filter_app[forums]=1&st=75 As far as hiccuping you would probably be better off starting by setting your PC to a O map or disconnecting it all together ,do the TPS and balance first,then re-install PC with correct map.Otherwise you and many others have chased their tail trying to get it right. You checked all exhaust and TB boot connections? Michael Thanks mznyc. Can I just disconnect the PC, and does it automatically just reset to the stock ecu settings? Then, when I'm done with the calibration, and I hook the PC back up, will it automatically revert to the last map?
mznyc Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 The PC 111 does not change the ECU.It only fools it into doin what you want it to do .If you unplug it and restore stock connections you will be in stock set-up.Do the TPS balance and you should have a good running vehicle unless you have another problem,but at this point you eliminate the PC and it's map.
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 The ECU setting in the FAQ section is quite easy to follow As for setting the throttle bodies You can make a manometer with about 10 ft of 1/4" plastic hose , 3 ft of wood and some engine oil I used 6mm grease nipples with the ball and spring removed to attach the manometer to the throttle body. Sorry, 2 beers too many
veloguzzi Posted June 9, 2012 Author Posted June 9, 2012 The PC 111 does not change the ECU.It only fools it into doin what you want it to do .If you unplug it and restore stock connections you will be in stock set-up.Do the TPS balance and you should have a good running vehicle unless you have another problem,but at this point you eliminate the PC and it's map. So, does everyone who runs a PCIII disconnect it every time they set the TB's and TPS? From what I've read here, this balancing needs to be done fairly often, every 2 years or so. Seems like you would want to have the bike running on the fuel map that has been "tuned" to work with the existing components.
moto fugazzi Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 The PC 111 does not change the ECU.It only fools it into doin what you want it to do .If you unplug it and restore stock connections you will be in stock set-up.Do the TPS balance and you should have a good running vehicle unless you have another problem,but at this point you eliminate the PC and it's map. So, does everyone who runs a PCIII disconnect it every time they set the TB's and TPS? From what I've read here, this balancing needs to be done fairly often, every 2 years or so. Seems like you would want to have the bike running on the fuel map that has been "tuned" to work with the existing components. AFAIK, I don't think you need to disconnect the PC3 in order to balance the TB's and set the TPS. I would set everything how you plan on running it. I have a VDST on order, and it should arrive soon, then I'll figure out how to use it to set the TPS. I'm on the south side of Milwaukee, and you're more than welcome to come down and use it anytime. I'll be gone this week (Lake Michigan circle tour), but should be back by the weekend. I also have carb sticks for the TB balance. PM me offline if you're interested. Info on the VDST here: http://forum.guzzitech.com/component/hikashop/product/15-tr-vdst-diagnostics/category_pathway-11.html Ken
mznyc Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 The PC 111 does not change the ECU.It only fools it into doin what you want it to do .If you unplug it and restore stock connections you will be in stock set-up.Do the TPS balance and you should have a good running vehicle unless you have another problem,but at this point you eliminate the PC and it's map. So, does everyone who runs a PCIII disconnect it every time they set the TB's and TPS? From what I've read here, this balancing needs to be done fairly often, every 2 years or so. Seems like you would want to have the bike running on the fuel map that has been "tuned" to work with the existing components. AFAIK, I don't think you need to disconnect the PC3 in order to balance the TB's and set the TPS. I would set everything how you plan on running it. I have a VDST on order, and it should arrive soon, then I'll figure out how to use it to set the TPS. I'm on the south side of Milwaukee, and you're more than welcome to come down and use it anytime. I'll be gone this week (Lake Michigan circle tour), but should be back by the weekend. I also have carb sticks for the TB balance. PM me offline if you're interested. Info on the VDST here: http://forum.guzzitech.com/component/hikashop/product/15-tr-vdst-diagnostics/category_pathway-11.html Ken You dont HAVE to disconnect the PC.Never said that,it just helps simplify finding where the problem is.Is it the TB's out of balance?,and air leak?,an improper map? or something else?I am not an expert,but I have done a lot of reading here about PC 3's and the easiest way to isolate a problem is to eliminate a variable(PC in this case).Easy to do and restore.The VDST is great to have an Im considering investing in one myself,so if you can get access to it give er a shot.Id be interested in what you find
luhbo Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 Actually there's a freeware available for the 15M ecus. Search for it here or contact Paul for further details. All you need is some proper cables. It allows you to check the tps readings and idle position. Maybe even the CO trim is accessible (haven't tried it myself). More would be pure bling in nearly all cases as the OEM maps offer plenty of room/space for exhaust and other modifications. Hubert
Tom M Posted June 10, 2012 Posted June 10, 2012 You shouldn't need a new PC map if you're just adding a new crossover. Whether or not the custom map that you had done locally should still be used could be an issue depending on what your TPS was set at when the map was created. If it wasn't set to about 525-530mV at idle your bike might not run as well once the TPS has been reset. Do you have the Powercommander software and a USB cable? If not you need them so you can store a copy of your current map. Once you have done that you could compare your map to the GH67 map in the fileshare section of this board, or just load the GH67 map and see if you like how your bike runs with it. It's a good map for pre-'03 bikes with exhaust and intake mods. If you don't think it's an improvement reload your old map. Another thing that the PC software will allow you to do is manually adjust your fueling at any given rpm and throttle opening. Have a lean cough at 3000 rpm at light throttle? Make sure the lean cough isn't due to an exhaust or intake leak. If they're tight try adding 5 to 10 points to the cells in that area of the map and see if it improves.
veloguzzi Posted June 10, 2012 Author Posted June 10, 2012 You shouldn't need a new PC map if you're just adding a new crossover. Whether or not the custom map that you had done locally should still be used could be an issue depending on what your TPS was set at when the map was created. If it wasn't set to about 525-530mV at idle your bike might not run as well once the TPS has been reset. Do you have the Powercommander software and a USB cable? If not you need them so you can store a copy of your current map. Once you have done that you could compare your map to the GH67 map in the fileshare section of this board, or just load the GH67 map and see if you like how your bike runs with it. It's a good map for pre-'03 bikes with exhaust and intake mods. If you don't think it's an improvement reload your old map. Another thing that the PC software will allow you to do is manually adjust your fueling at any given rpm and throttle opening. Have a lean cough at 3000 rpm at light throttle? Make sure the lean cough isn't due to an exhaust or intake leak. If they're tight try adding 5 to 10 points to the cells in that area of the map and see if it improves. Thanks for all the replies everyone. I assume that the PC software is the shareware available on their website? And just an ordinary usb cable, not some proprietary thing? Will have to try to store my map, and also check out the GH67. My TB boots have a few cracks I've noticed, may try to replace those too as they are pretty cheap I see. When dyno'd, I had the guy check for air leaks, but you never know...
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