Satin black paint

[Baldini]

Looking for satin black paint for swingarm. Prefer brush paint, but aerosol's OK. Tough, reliable finish a priority over exact match to original. Thanks for any recommendations.

 

KB

[RayS]

Looking for satin black paint for swingarm. Prefer brush paint, but aerosol's OK. Tough, reliable finish a priority over exact match to original. Thanks for any recommendations.

 

KB

Highly recommend Hammerite Satin aerosols - worked a treat on the Ballabio I had a couple of years back.

[Baldini]

Thanks RayS. Can you use it over (keyed/cleaned) original paint or do you have to strip back to metal?

[luhbo]

I do not have the best experiencies with Hammerite. Used the red one as a perfect match for the red parts on my Sport, but it becomes rather brittle after some time.

Tried a black aerosol can on some bicycle parts and experienced lots of bubbles.

Nevertheless I still have two can's on the shelf for parts like plate holders etc.

 

Hubert

[Admin Jaap]

Motip matt black is more satin than matt and gives a nice finish. Don't know about durability.

[moscowphil]

I've used Rustoleum "hard Hat" aerosol with good results. It says it's matt on the tin, not satin, but it's a pretty good match to the frame paint on my Scura.

[AndyH]

Thanks RayS. Can you use it over (keyed/cleaned) original paint or do you have to strip back to metal?

I use the aerosol over keyed/cleaned on hidden bits (battery carrier etc.) which it says it's designed to do,but I can't get a good enough finish even with the aerosol.

 

The brush on stuff is worse: it's so thick I can't get out all the brush marks and you can only thin/clean up with Hammerite thinner. That's so expensive I haven't bought it in years, so I wrap the brush up in Ally foil between coats and throw it when I'm done, it's cheaper.

 

Upshot is I use Hammerite to protect hidden bits against corrosion but not on anything pretty that people will get to see.

 

Andy

[dave]

No matter what you use it will need touched up down the road. How soon and how often is the choice.

 

Powder coat is super tough until is fails catastrophically. It has exceptionally few pores because it does not off-gas as with a solvent based paint. When is is time to touch it up, it is very hard to remove the compromised areas to prep for paint, causing more and more frequent blemishes.

 

Off the shelf enamels do a decent job. They offer some water protection and are easily retouched. They have a soft finish though and have limited choices for a hard top coat.

 

Automotive paint is well... good for what it's intended.

 

The good news is that auto paint can be applied with a brush, or bought in spray bombs ($30-$40) through the inter web without the need for an expensive set up. The catalyzed clear is a different story. To achieve a satin finish you can reapply a layer of base coat over the clear (the clear needs scuffed and the dry time must be right) to get the satin finish without any loss of protection.

 

Here's the shitty thing. Metal wants to rust. Cutting corners with paint usually buys very little time. I would strongly recommend an effortless cosmetic touch up, or a proper acid-etch primer to catalyzed clear coat job. In between is fruitless work in mho. I do metal work for a living and have cut all the corners only to have to redo the work sooner than was worth it. Sadly, I can't say I have ever found an easy answer waiting to be discovered to the paint problem.

[RayS]

Thanks RayS. Can you use it over (keyed/cleaned) original paint or do you have to strip back to metal?

Hi KB,

The swinging arm was seriously affected by rust in quite a few areas so I did strip back completely to bare metal - took quite a while to do, but I think that is why the finished job looked OK. Notice you have lots of other, and possibly better, advice above.

The answer is probably that there is no easy way