Greasing the drive shaft

[Miro Kacur]

Hello there,

Being a new here, let me start by thanking you for this and many other threads I have been consuming on this forum.

I have followed your instructions and decided to take off the whole swing arm, just to grease the drive shaft. No problem with that whatsoever. After inspecting the drive shaft I have notices small flakes of paint peeling off (pics included). Nothing major, but still, me being a detailist, I would like to treat, just to have a peace of mind. I don’t think I need to go as far ar coating the whole drive shaft. I was thinking about applying a small amount of coat only locally where needed. Have you treated the shaft (or maybe other parts such as frame, et al) with locally applied paint and if so, what paint did you get the best results with?

(If this topic belongs to other thread, I will be happy to remove it from here)

Thanks in advance.

Miro

[Chuck]

Welcome, Miro.. really, I wouldn't be concerned. If you want to touch it up, cleaning it with some lacquer thinner, and about any paint for metal applied with an artist's brush will do the job.

[Kiwi_Roy]

On 5/12/2022 at 11:44 AM, Miro Kacur said:

 

 If you separate the two joints they must go back the same, I think you should find a paint mark to get the correct orientation.

[Miro Kacur]

Thanks Kiwi_Roy, I have made my own marks on the joints. Along the way, I have also marked many fasteners just in case that I wasn't able to find out the correct torque settings, I could just tighten them to their original position.

[guzziart]

2 hours ago, Miro Kacur said:

Thanks Kiwi_Roy, I have made my own marks on the joints. Along the way, I have also marked many fasteners just in case that I wasn't able to find out the correct torque settings, I could just tighten them to their original position.

In February I put the original rear drive back into my V11 and had the shaft out to clean & service but I can't seem the pinch bolt torque specs now.  I'm am confident I torqued those bolts but I can't seem to find the values in my shop manual or notes.

Oh, and my drive shaft still had the factory yellow alignment marks on it.

[paulnaz]

 If you have the factory manual, on page 12 it gives the generic torque for any bolts not specifically listed in the component sections. 

  Paul B 

[docc]

3 hours ago, guzziart said:

In February I put the original rear drive back into my V11 and had the shaft out to clean & service but I can't seem the pinch bolt torque specs now.  I'm am confident I torqued those bolts but I can't seem to find the values in my shop manual or notes.

Oh, and my drive shaft still had the factory yellow alignment marks on it.

That torque spec is likely in the manual based on the fastener's shaft diameter and thread pitch.

Remember, with pinch bolts to work in steps and know that the last fastener to fully torque will loosen the other. at the end of the session, work bath and forth between them until no further rotation occurs to achieve the specification.

[guzziart]

Yeah, I've got the factory manual sect. B, p. 12 and familiar with step torquing but really thought I had a spec for those particular bolts.  MG goes through the effort of putting an fancy diagram in sect O, p.8 & 9 but no bolt torques.

The 1100i Sport manual indicates torque to 39nm for the (8mm, GU98832430) bolt which is the same bolt used on the V11 Lemans.  I think 39nm is kind of high but what do I know. 

[docc]

V11 Workshop Manual for nuts ans screws 8M x 1.25 = 20-30 Nm

Seems more like it . . .

[guzziart]

2 minutes ago, docc said:

V11 Workshop Manual for nuts ans screws 8M x 1.25 = 20-30 Nm

Seems more like it . . .

I agree...

However, i just ran out to the garage, grabbed the torque wrench and have concluded that I did torque those bolts to 39nm back in February. 

 

Going to ride now!

[Guzziglide]

I will take the wheel and swing arm off later this summer but managed to grease the front uni using the same grease coupler as @80CX100.  Worked like a charm.

Had the weight off the suspension to do it.

 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-180-degree-swivel-grease-gun-coupler-0282760p.html?rrecName=Similar Items&rrecReferrer=product&rrecProductId=0282760P&rrecProductSlot=2&rrecSchemeId=product3_rr&rrec=true

 

 

[docc]

On 7/23/2021 at 7:54 AM, 80CX100 said:

I apologize if I've falsely raised hopes for short frame owners, this worked for me on that hidden grease nipple on my LONG frame bike.

Imho, if there is any coupling that MAY work on short frames, this would be it.

Take a look at the photo on this link below; that short 4" pipe to the left on the 180 degree swivel coupling with the spring over it, has male threads on both ends;remove it; you now have a 180 degree swivel with female threads.

Remove the coupling from whatever type of grease gun you have, exposing the male threads and screw the 180 swivel on, in it's place.

On my LONG frame, I could see the top of that hidden grease fitting, but it was welded in so close to the shoulder of the driveshaft, I needed a coupling approximately 45-60 degrees (WAG), this cheap swivel worked like a charm for me, on my LONG frame;

I make no promises it will work on a SHORT frame, but for $10 Canadian funds, I'd take the gamble and try, fwiw ymmv.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-180-degree-swivel-grease-gun-coupler-0282760p.html

During my current Wheel Off Maintenance session, racing Mr. Waddington to the upcoming Nineteenth South'n SpineRaid, I gave this a go. I have tried EVERYTHING, over all this time, to grease "that bloody farking front UNI joint " as @dangerous so aptly referred to it. 

Many of you recall that I finally resolved to just pull my swingarm every third rear tire and triage the shaft . . .

Like @Guzziglide, I approached the front Zerk from forward of the swingarm using the 180º swivel tip, with the Zerk at the "twelve o'clock" position/ straight up. With the swivel tip aimed as acute as possible, and the grease gun held as high as possible, I was finally able to connect and feel the grease enter the U-joint. I found it helpful to slightly relieve (unscrew) the tension on the tip. A little grease comes out of the connection, but that is okay for this long-sought success!

[view, below, shows the direction of access, but the tip has to be oriented vertically and aimed as far forward as possible with the grease gun raised high to the point of contacting the frame side plate]:

[endoscopic view, from behind, through the swingarm]:

Compared to @Guzziglide's images , it seems the enigmatic, early RedFrame/ShortFrame needs a bit more radical approach angle to make this work. (Still not sure what changed or why the ShortFrames are so much more difficult):

Best outcome, ever!

I set @80CX100's post as "Best Answer."

 

[80CX100]

Hey Docc, Tks for doing such a great job documenting this challenging bit of maintenance.

Fwiw, I'm sure there are many different cheap rotating flexible grease gun tips out there.

I partially disassembled the adapter to make it work for me;It looks you & guzziglide used it "as purchased"

Whatever works.