bentfab Posted August 20, 2012 Posted August 20, 2012 Hey guys, After adjusting the valves this weekend I decided I should finally break down and adjust the TPS and sync the throttle bodies. Had avoided TPS adjustment in the past because it seemed intimidating, but after reading over the instructions I found here I gave it a try and had the bike running better than it has in years in less than 45 minutes. Thanks! One question though. The air by pass screw on both of my throttle bodies have almost no resistance and I'm afraid they will vibrate out of sync on my first ride. I thought about backing them all of the way out (do they come all of the way out?) and putting a dap of thread loc on them before re-syncing. Any reason this is a bad idea? Anyone have a better solution? Thanks
gstallons Posted August 20, 2012 Posted August 20, 2012 The thread locker is a permanent solution. I don't think you want that. Maybe a pipe thread sealant or something like that?
Baldini Posted August 20, 2012 Posted August 20, 2012 ...Had avoided TPS adjustment in the past because it seemed intimidating, but after reading over the instructions I found here I gave it a try and had the bike running better than it has in years in less than 45 minutes.... I have same phobia - never touched FI, always took it to a man who knew. Your words are an inspiration! Which instructions did you follow? Thanks. KB
bentfab Posted August 20, 2012 Author Posted August 20, 2012 ...Had avoided TPS adjustment in the past because it seemed intimidating, but after reading over the instructions I found here I gave it a try and had the bike running better than it has in years in less than 45 minutes.... I have same phobia - never touched FI, always took it to a man who knew. Your words are an inspiration! Which instructions did you follow? Thanks. KB In the FAQ section there is an article called "TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning how to set your TPS and balance throttle bodies". When I finally figure out that mV = milli volt, or 150mV = .15 volts it all clicked. I borrowd a Twin Max electronic carb adjuster from one of the Harley riders in the shop next door. Easier to use than mercury sticks.
bentfab Posted August 20, 2012 Author Posted August 20, 2012 The thread locker is a permanent solution. I don't think you want that. Maybe a pipe thread sealant or something like that? I was going to use the blue thread loc. The paste, not the liquid. Makes things snug, but not permenant.
gstallons Posted August 20, 2012 Posted August 20, 2012 When you understand the proper sequence, it will be snap to do.
bentfab Posted August 20, 2012 Author Posted August 20, 2012 Just took a test spin! Pulls hard from low rpm's like a twin should and really smoothed out that mid level flat spot! Also got rid of that terrible rat-a-tat-tat out of the exhaust that the Harley guys love so much when you back off the throttle.
docc Posted August 21, 2012 Posted August 21, 2012 While I do use a "jam nut" on the white linkage knob, I've never found my air screws to walk. I favor the "full turn" setting and always find them where I left them last. I do like using the mercury sticks, partly for their socially unacceptable danger (my kids do seem a bit odd at times), but for their atavistic appeal - how could anyone tune a 2 valve, push rod twin any other way? Motowfo and I had some fun balancing his Coppa with the TwinMax and then checking it with the mercury sticks . . . . it was perfect and the mercury would make it no better. I'm sure I broke numerous transport regulations just driving the scary things across county lines on federal highways, but it was worth it to report that the digital solution is reliable and more than adequate. That, and I had been plied with Imperial Stout . . .
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now