Bob Hartman Posted September 3, 2012 Posted September 3, 2012 Thanks Kiwi-Roy, that is exactly what we did. My buddy the electrician helped my install a resistor in place of the sensor, so the bike thinks it's 80 degrees. FIXED IT! Runs great. So the air temperature sensor plays a big part in telling the computer the mixture to use, and at zero resistance, by V11 thought it was 120 degrees outside, and leaned the mixture accordingly. Thanks everyone for all your help. My sanity has returned, and my wife and kidds are happy for that! Great result. The perplexing thing to me is the symptoms manifested on the one cylinder. Would never have suspected the temperature sensor - or is that how they all work?
drewladams Posted September 4, 2012 Author Posted September 4, 2012 Thanks Kiwi-Roy, that is exactly what we did. My buddy the electrician helped my install a resistor in place of the sensor, so the bike thinks it's 80 degrees. FIXED IT! Runs great. So the air temperature sensor plays a big part in telling the computer the mixture to use, and at zero resistance, by V11 thought it was 120 degrees outside, and leaned the mixture accordingly. Thanks everyone for all your help. My sanity has returned, and my wife and kidds are happy for that! Great result. The perplexing thing to me is the symptoms manifested on the one cylinder. Would never have suspected the temperature sensor - or is that how they all work? No idea, but I know it was backfireing out of the left side because I took the airbox off and could see and hear it. Every time it backfired you could feel it in the throttle grip. Yes, very strange indeed, but thankful it is fixed!
thebronze Posted September 7, 2012 Posted September 7, 2012 Hey Drew, do you know what value resistor you guys put in place? I'm going to test my sensor today after I pick the bike up and then I might try that resistor swap.
drewladams Posted September 7, 2012 Author Posted September 7, 2012 Hey Drew, do you know what value resistor you guys put in place? I'm going to test my sensor today after I pick the bike up and then I might try that resistor swap. A 3.000 Kohm resistor tells the engine it is 77 degrees F. My electrician friend set me up with one. not much to it. Temp fix until the part comes in. Zero reading on the old one. I suspect the prior owner flung the airbox accross his garage at a frustrating moment.
thebronze Posted September 8, 2012 Posted September 8, 2012 A 3.000 Kohm resistor tells the engine it is 77 degrees F. My electrician friend set me up with one. not much to it. Temp fix until the part comes in. Zero reading on the old one. I suspect the prior owner flung the airbox accross his garage at a frustrating moment. Thanks man, I just tested the sensor and it works really well. I was getting something like 1.3 but its 98f here and 8:00pm in Texas.
Gottagetone Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 So my bike just started doing the left cylinder back fire today. Rode a good portion of the day yesterday and ran great! Today it started running like crap and I felt it backfire on the left side, it actually pushed the boot between the cylinder and throttle body loose and I felt it blow my pant let. I reset the boot in place and tightened it up and it ran great while riding around the block then at about 3k rpm it happened again. Im no electrician so this causes a bit of an issue for me. Ill pull the boots and inspect / replace if necessary. I did pull the plugs and the look good, replaced them about 1000 miles ago. Ill check all the connections but think the temp sensor could be the culprit as it seems to similar. Do you have a part number for the sensor? Is this the part? http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_160&products_id=1226&zenid=ce6c4d186865fa9a6fc2078c07c47183 Also, my voltage light always seems to lightly stay on at idle...its never been an issue but could this be connected to the problem?
Gottagetone Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 I took the tank off and checked all the connections, all looks good. I pulled air sensor and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner just in case. checked and tightened the necks that go from the cylinder to the throttle bodies. Put is all back together and went around the block and same thing, its not back firing out the tail pipe but rather trying to blow back into the throttle body on the left side thus blowing the rubber neck off. Help!
Gottagetone Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 I don't have a meter so nope. Looks like ill be headed to pick up a meter this week.
Kiwi_Roy Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 The temperature thermistors can be had from www.Digikey.com part No BC2730-ND for a few cents each, I bought 20 but I have given most of them away already. Actually the thermistor you need is 3,000 Ohms at 25°C Vishay part No NTCLE203E3302SB column 2 on page 3 of the datasheet.
Gottagetone Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 Thanks Roy, I bought a multimeter today and will check mine out to see what reading I get. If it turns out that mine is dead can I just take the old one out and solder in the new? Or should I run the new one to a new location?
Gottagetone Posted November 17, 2015 Posted November 17, 2015 Got this one: http://m.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Digital-Multimeter/50081424
Gottagetone Posted November 21, 2015 Posted November 21, 2015 So Kiwi-Roy has been helping me out and it looks like one of my relays is bad so I am going to replace all of them. When I swapped relays 4 and 5 my dash lights and tach quit....and so did the backfire problem. Can someone confirm the I need this relay http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=184386420&uq=635836307695194383 in place of the smaller relays found in spots 4 & 5? The relays that are now located there are Tyco V23074-B1005-A302. I found the post where the larger relays, 1 - 3, takes this as a crossover - http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND Can someone confirm?
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