AndyH Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I've just had my second tacho go awol. On my first the needle wouldn't go above 3.5K rpm. So I got a used tacho from Dave (thanks mate! ) and it worked OK for about a thousand miles, pretty wobbly over 5K but after another wet weekend in Wales (what other kind is there?) it won't read below 9K even when the engine's not running!! So maybe it was the condensation... So, first, do these devices ever work perfectly and second, does anyone anywhere fix these items? I can live without a tacho - I've done so for long enough already - but it would be nice to have a Veglia Borletti white-face tacho working without going down the non-OEM route. Any suggestions? AndyH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 if it's like my EV tach, the counterweight falls off. You have to pry the bezel off (not easy) and glue the weight back on. You might check on Wild Guzzi, there are several threads with photos. Even more difficult than getting the bezel off is getting it back on. I also broke the glass trying to take off and had to get a new glass cut. I used a paint can opener (filed down) as a tool the get the bezel off. Use soap or Vaseline on the gasket when trying to put the bezel back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I seem to recall it was Carl Allison (callison) who found a method for grounding the internals to ensure function. After my first tach failed, I used this method and this one has lasted long enough the orange needle is almost white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimeister Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I seem to recall it was Carl Allison (callison) who found a method for grounding the internals to ensure function. After my first tach failed, I used this method and this one has lasted long enough the orange needle is almost white. Hi lots of questions here which I hope I can help with - tachos can be repaired by Stein Dinse even the electronic ones, they are on the net - condensation in them seems to make no difference, indeed the concensus in the Moto Guzzi Club GB is that they tend to be more reliable than the dry ones - Stein Dinse reckon they fail because the tiny gauge of internal wiring in the unit is too small and fractures with vibration Cheers Guzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 ... they fail because the tiny gauge of internal wiring in the unit is too small and fractures with vibration ... ... what is perfectly true. The internals are totally isolated from the housing, being mounted into a plastic cage. Adding a ground wire to the housing so actually cannot cure anything. The illumination maybe. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 - tachos can be repaired by Stein Dinse even the electronic ones, they are on the net - condensation in them seems to make no difference, indeed the concensus in the Moto Guzzi Club GB is that they tend to be more reliable than the dry ones - Stein Dinse reckon they fail because the tiny gauge of internal wiring in the unit is too small and fractures with vibration Thanks Guzz, I'm too ham fisted to take my own clock apart and put it back together: respect to any owner who succeeds in that enterprise! I've used Stein Dinse before for parts so will follow that up. Cheers AndyH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Hi Andy! That is really shitty news. Did it start working again after it dried out at all? If I come across one I will send it your way. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 take the tach off the mount and shake it gently. If you hear the weight bouncing around you know it needs to be glued back to the round bracket. Since the tach needle is stuck high on the scale, I would give a good bet it's the simple counterweight. Easy fix, but not easy to take apart & reassemble. If it doesn't rattle, then it might be the windings. I was lucky enough to fix mine. I took a red magic marker to the needle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Hi Andy! That is really shitty news. Did it start working again after it dried out at all? If I come across one I will send it your way. Cheers, Dave Hi Dave, just the way of things - don't feel too bad. Think it was probably the vibes - i was having fun on a favourite road across the Cotswolds and running up and down the 'box. Judging from comments above the vibes probably did for the counterweight. Not the condensation. As i say I can't trust myself to fix the clock properly myself so will probably send it to the guten Herren at Stein Dinse for treatment. Unless there's a worthy craftsman recommended in the UK, that is. Ho hum, it worked good for a couple of K! Cheers AndyH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzistaracing Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 The tacho on my N. Falcone stopped working(electronic) and I had it repaired by http://www.hannos-motorradladen.de/ Did a remarkable job. With new bezel and all. Looks like new! Came across the the firm by chance when I started talking to the owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 After just 2000 miles my tacho repaired via Stein Dinse was working beautifully one moment and as I watched, started going erratic, stopped working started again and now barely flickers when the revs rise. I think this is a clock problem rather than connections but will have to investigate This is going to be a saga, I can see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I read somewhere instead of struggling with the bezel to take a hacksaw and cut the case about half way up, then simply tape it back together. Slightly off topic, I noticed my after market tach was wandering up scale when I turned the key on before starting, turns out it was the sidestand switch sizzling away, creating false pulses, shorting the 30/87 contacts of relay 3 cured that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 I feel a sledgehammer might be the thing right now. Will make one problem a non-issue A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I read somewhere instead of struggling with the bezel to take a hacksaw and cut the case about half way up, then simply tape it back together. Slightly off topic, I noticed my after market tach was wandering up scale when I turned the key on before starting, turns out it was the sidestand switch sizzling away, creating false pulses, shorting the 30/87 contacts of relay 3 cured that you might be right, getting that bezal off and on again is a bitch. I'll bet sawing and soldering or taping it back together might be easier. I fixed the Tach on my 98 EV. Once I got the bezel off, it was just a matter of gluing in the counter weight. You might hear it rattling around when you disconnect the tach. BTW- I used paint can opener church key filed down and hose clamp to gt the bezel off. I broke the glass and had another cut at the glass store. Much harder getting it back on. Had to get help on that ....but soap and keep twisting it. Now if I could only fix the Speedo on the greenie from jumping all over.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 $$$ will fix your speedo ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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