Changing the timing cover gasket

[gstallons]

Some Torx sockets will work in helping extracting socket head screws or USS in place of metric Allen head screws .

[Gottagetone]

Need some help here....I am at a point to where the timing cover is loose and ready to come off but the shaft is in the way.  When I pull the cover it comes loose easily but the shaft is to long and to top of the cover hits the frame.  I assume the shaft separates there but what to do?

 

 

[Gottagetone]

Never mind, I figured it out....got to remove two of the top frame bolts and loosen the other two to swing it forward.  

 

Timing chain cover is off...the culprit:

[docc]

Seems as if the metal-reinforced gasket LuckyPhil speaks of is the good medicine. Is there a part number/reference/source/link?

 

And, pray tell, how does your chain tensioner seem to be faring for your mileage?

[nobleswood]

Great pictures !

[Lucky Phil]

Looks like you need the 5001230 at HMB Guzzi (series1 gasket) but check the photo of the series 2 as well. One of the holes is bigger on the series 2.

http://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-cover-gasket-metal-newer-Big-Twins-1st-series

 

Ciao

[Gottagetone]

Alright, the job is done for the most part.  Tomorrow I will change the oil, retape the electircal connections and zip tie them back and reinstall the gas tank and lord willing all will be good to go.  

 

I learned a lot and honestly the toughest part, other than the stripped hex screw, was breaking the frame bolts loose and for that I had to use a pipe wrench on my allen wrenches.  The leak has been slow from quite some time and when it broke loose it make a mess of the side of my bike.  

 

How it happens:

 

Pictured below are the new gaskets, crank seal and timing cover gasket

 

First I suggest using a stand otherwise its just not going to happen.  Once on the stand you can start breaking it down, I started with the kick stand and sensor thats attached.  From there, if I had to do it all over again, I would have removed the tank which will give you access to all the frame bolts.  Remove the frame bolts that attach to the timing cover and the ones directly above then loosen the front frame bolts.  This will allow you to somewhat swing all this stuff out of they way.  By doing so you may be able to get away without having to remove the horns and all the other bits attached.  I did put a jack under the sump with a board in between just for good measure.  

 

From there you can really start to get into the meat of things by removing the alternator cover and checking out all the wiring.  Once the cover is removed it will look like this:

 

At this point if you have not drained you oil you may consider doing so then you can remove the oil cooler lines and not make a big mess.  From there you need to remove the nut holding the rotor, I used a 24mm wrench.  As others suggested, put the bike in gear and have someone get on the rear brake, for me it was my son, and the nut will break loose.  Once thats removed you will need to remove the three screws holding the stator in.  Then you will need to unhook all the wires so you can feed them down and out of the way.  The main wire connection is zip tied and taped up to the frame rail shown here already untaped and zip tie cut:

:

 

With the center bolt and the three hex head screws removed you will be able to pull the stator out, you may want to have already fed the wire down so its free from snagging on anything.  Once the stator is out you can pull the rotor, I put a screw driver behind it and with very little pressure it pulled right off the shaft.  Once apart, as suggested in the manual, put the rotor back in the stator and set aside.  After that it should look something like this....I do put screw back in their holes so the two you are seeing are ones that hold the stator in:

 

 

From there you can remove the hex head screws that hold the timing cover in place, I would start with the two that are located basically behind the alternator then on to the others on the outside of the cover.  Keep a pan under because oil will come out of the timing cover.  I made the mistake of pulling most of the screws then going to bed only to find oil all over the floor this morning.  Once all the screws are removed you can push the frame section towards the front of the bike and remove the cover.  Once pulled mine looked like this....bad gasket!

 

I cleaned both the block and cover surfaces then took a socket head and knocked out the old crank seal and cleaned up the cover.  After that I installed the new crank seal adding just a touch of silicone around the outside of the seal then putting a block over the seal and popping it into place then lined the new gasket up on the block and reinstalled the timing cover.  From there you simply reverse the above process and put it all back together.

 

Now as with all jobs well done, I am enjoying a glass of bourbon on the rocks, Blantons to be exact.  Ill change the oil and filter tomorrow then reinstall the tank and report back with the results.

 

Hope this helps......Cheers!

[Gottagetone]

Docc, I just called Harpers and the gasket pictured above is what they sent, I think it was about $28 while the crank shaft gasket was about $6.

[Scud]

Thanks for the step-by-step instructions and identification of parts needed. I already have the main gasket on hand, but did not order the crank seal - I'll get one of those. You saved me from getting stuck with the bike open and in need of a part.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I'm curious about the blind hole with 3 screws in the top of the cover. anyone seen anything in there?

[Gottagetone]

Update, its all back together and the bike started right up and after a few minutes the were no leaks....

 

I did hear a noise coming from the alternator that I had not previously head then noticed the bright charge light on the dash.....

 

Turns out that i did not secure the wire as you see in the pic above with a zip tie and the rotor got hold of the wire and shredded the connections.  I did find a new stator from Electrosport and ordered it as Guzzi wants you to by the whole deal plus a regulator to the tune of about $500...

 

I spoke to a guy on the phone at Electrosport and he is sending along the back side of the clip so I won't have the bullet type connectors that are on there now which should be much better.....Fun! 

 

http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/moto-guzzi/v11-sport-naked.html

[Kiwi_Roy]

If it just pulled the yellow wires off the coils you should be able to re-attach. If the copper is oxidized replace it with some new.

[Gottagetone]

Thanks Roy but it ripped and shredded....not good.

[Gottagetone]

Update:

 

New stator arrived last Thursday and it went in just fine.  I adapted the regulator connection from the bullet type to the new connection and everything works perfect.  Now to find time to get out on the road!

[docc]

Great news! Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I thought about moving it to "How to . . ." but the title is descriptive and a proper search should show the thread for future searches.

 

So, could you peer in and get a sense of the status on the chain tensioner?